gaz_moose

Budding Enthusiast
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About gaz_moose

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    gaz
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 tdci
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Staffordshire
  1. my logic was that it would not use the additive system if it detected a fault. ive just been driving it with the big warning light on the centre of the instrument cluster as it don't really bother me. I just figured I would unplug the FACM for the mot to save any bother. its kind of scary that you could buy a car with an empty/broken tank that just has the FACM unplugged, first thing you would know was when your DPF was knackered. I must be getting old as I was putting it off till the weather gets warmer. I did top the tank up with JLM pat fluid which is why I have a small amount left. Im guessing that will be the decider when I fix it.. hahahaha. I might see if I can use the 'tank prime' feature to empty the tank.
  2. if it wont run after changing the fuel filter. pop the breather hose off the inlet pipe to the turbo and spray something flammable down it like break cleaner whilst you crank the engine over on the key. it will cough splutter and run on the cleaner till it pumps enough diesel through to run on that. don't spray too much or it will rev the engine up a lot. dirty fuel filter cause all kinds of weird faults.
  3. ive contacted a few people breaking them and they either don't get back to me or say its sold, so they either sell them or take one look at where they are located and decide the tank aint worth the effort. by the looks of it I will have to drop the whole rear beam down to gain access to the torx head screws that hold the tank on. there is a self pick breakers yard not that far away from me so I will have to go and strip one off a breaker myself. my MOT is due next month but I did find that just unplugging the FACM removes the big red warning triangle from the instrument display so I will probably just do that and swap the actual tank over when the weather gets better. I can just pour a few drops of the left over EOLYS fluid straight into the tank using the 'she wee'. im sure I read that the 2L of fluid is good for 37000 odd miles and this thing does like 500 miles to a tank. it holds 2L of EOLYS so.. 37000/500=74 then 2/74=0.03L
  4. I actually looked at the manual and saw that but somehow it didn't register in my brain. DOH.. I was looking at it as when you look at the the tank it looks like you can just pry back the clips and slide that whole lot out. I will try to pick up another tank. it looks like you have to lower the rear beam to get to the tanks mounting bolts which is a bit rubbish.
  5. EEiveriive checked the fuel flap via elm config. ive brimmed the diesel tank since topping up the eloys tank. ive opened and closed the flap loads of times, even done the flap reset procedure. ive reset the counters and primed the system on both of the FACM's I have using Forscan and Elmconfig. Forscan has a 'reset FACM' feature but it wont let it run. it gets to about 10% then flags up an error code, even with the full licenced version. I got the replacement off a slightly older version of the same car. the part numbers were the same as on mine. the tank level sensor cant be a thermistor as previously mentioned because cars are tested to be able to work between -20 and +30 Celsius. so the fluid its-self cant really be relied on to cool a thermistor. my fault is P1922 which means it thinks the EOLYs level is low. I just need to some how tell or trick it to think that its not. im thinking that I may have to bite the bullet and just buy a secondhand additive tank.
  6. mask around the jet so any excess sealant will splodge onto the masking tape.
  7. I wouldn't bother with engine flush. just drain your oil when its hot. if you have just got the car and think the oil is excessively dirty then just do an additional oil and filter change. do the later 1.6's not have a cambelt?
  8. thanks for taking the time to reply. i don't think it is a thermistor, the symbol on the diagram is that of a variable resistor. my car only has the 3 wires going to the ELOYs tank. positive, negate, Vref. unplugging the FACM removes the 'engine malfunction' warning from the dash but does flag up a U-error code and P2585 when scanned. today I plugged the FACM back in then cut the yellow and green wire (11) to the FACM to see if no signal from the TANK would make a difference. I checked and had no voltage or continuity to ground on either side of the cut wire. it still flagged up P1922. I then put a 12v feed onto pin 11 of the FACM to simulate a signal from Vref but it still showed P1922 when scanned. I did this by looping the y/g wire round into the back of the g/y (pin 3). not sure how to get 5V to it??? P1922 is a low level fault indicator, I know the level is actually full as I filled it up, I assume that its something inside the sealed tank that has failed causing the issue. I would be happy with just tricking the FACM into thinking the tank is full as that will clear the P1922 allowing the system to work again. It take minutes to refill the tank so I would just top it up every 20k miles. the additive tanks seem difficult to get hold of for realistic money and seem a pain to change as by the looks of it you need to drop the rear axle. knowing what voltage or resistance should be on the Vref wire would be nice.
  9. just get a new neck off someone breaking a diesel. shouldn't be too difficult to change. just pop the wheel and arch liner off.
  10. Sorry to drag up an old thread but do any of you guys know what the Vref wire actually does? I have a constant P1922 fault within the FACM that wont clear. ive fitted a new FACM and can run a prime/ talk to the FACM but cant reset the P1922 code. I did unplug the electrical connector from the EOLYs tank and the P1922 went away and I got a few codes that said it was unable to communicate with the pump. I think I have a knackered thermistor inside the tank so im wondering if the Vref wire is the low level wire. Im wondering if there is a way to trick the level sensor? as that is the only thing keeping my car in fault, it knows the tank is actually full.
  11. I cant see it doing the DPF any favours. I have poured a small amount of the EOLYS fluid directly into the diesel tank as that's basically what the system does. im thinking that it may be the 'low level' sensor in the additive tank. from what I can gather, it changes its resistance (or something along those lines) when it is submerged in EOLYS fluid, when the level drops and its out of the fluid the values change thus allowing the FACM to establish the fluid is low. what would be awesome is for someone to know what the resistance of a healthy level sensor so I have a benchmark to work from. I would be happy to just 'trick' the FACM into thinking the sensor isn't knackered and just topping the EOLYS tank up every year or so, as it is pretty easy to do.
  12. rainsports are good but soft so wont last very long. I would try to get something with a 'low noise' feature. if your happy with the look of your 45 profile then I would stick with it as it will give a better ride quality whilst not really compromising on performance.
  13. Hi guys new member here so be gentle 😂 car in question is a 2008 1.6 110hp tdci I had the usual instrument cluster failure causing it to flag up loads of weird fault codes. i eventually got round to fixing it and clearing the codes. It then threw up codes P1922 and P2585 so i poured just under a liter of fluid into the EOLYs tank (till it was full) then reset the counters and primed the pump using Forscan. It still continued to show the P1922 and P2585 faults despite showing that the tank was full on Forscan. I bit the bullet and bought a secondhand FACM and plugged it in but it still shows the same fault codes. ive reset the counters on the new FACM and double checked it using ELMCONFIG. what would be my next action to try to cure the issue? it knows the tank is full but shows p1922 which indicates that the tank is empty.