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About Paulkp

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  1. Do they not turn off after an hour ? Not got a Ford that new (!) but boot lights etc go off after an hour, and I'm sure that includes the accessory socket ?
  2. They don't sound to me like they came from a Puma. Puma Floorpan is based on Fiesta, so the seats should be Fiesta sized........ Try :
  3. To access the cable, the Connector in A post will need to be disconnected, outer door handle removed, door lock unbolted, glass disconnected from lifting mechanism etc. All the door machinery is mounted on that inner panel, and (on a Fusion at least) it is quite difficult to get out even once it is free. Removing the loudspeaker may give you extra wiggle room. On the Fusion, the cable penetrates the panel, and is connected to an arm on the lock with an "S" bend hook. I recommend that you follow the Haynes manual procedure, and have an extra pair of hands !
  4. Carl, I don't think we can help on this forum as it is for the European Fusion, which was a Fiesta based 5 dr UAV produced between 2002 and 2012
  5. Lower Arm/Ball joint ? Factory ball joint was riveted to the lower arm, but might have been replaced with a "bolt in" ball joint, so could be worth a look. Any play when jacked up ? I'm also running a Mk6 Zetec S and a Fusion so interested in the solution !
  6. Specifically on a 2010 Fusion, but may apply to a number of models including 02-08 Fiesta. With a frequent but intermittent "Passenger Door Open" alarms, which stop the car locking, and occasionally set off the alarm, it was time to replace the motor assembly, which is where the microswitch has been interred! Normal trauma with door trim, five point security bit to remove the lock bolts, then with a LOT of wriggle required to remove the panel carrying all the lock mechanism and electric window gubbins, you finally get access to the lock motor itself. It is at this stage you find the sticky seal that goes between the lock motor and the door is still firmly stuck to the old lock ! And you need to scrape it off to transfer to the new lock motor - which thankfully was successful. Moral of the story being, buy a seal before you start - compared to the price of the lock, and the aggro of getting to it, a cheap investment!
  7. Can you not read the VIN via the OBD Port ? I'm sure I have done that on my 2007 Fiesta, so hopefully that should agree with the paperwork. You should be able to do that without involving dealer or Police.
  8. Ford used to do a spoiler for a five door, but don't know if you could find one.
  9. As far as I can work out: Door locks use E6 Mirrors use E5(LH) and E6 (RH) Electric windows E5 and E6 GEM uses E8 and E9 E5 and E6 Inner Sills E8 RH inner sill behind E6 E9 bottom of LH A post I'm currently replacing LH front door lock on our Fusion as it gives intermittent "Passenger Door Open" indications, which either stop the doos locking, or set the alarm off at inconvenient moments.
  10. Ryan, There is a lot of them, all listed in Haynes manual. I think Nearside and Offside door "furniture" use different earth points.
  11. I've been finding non safety critical stuff like that from a breakers or scrapyard for decades - amazing what bits you can pick up.
  12. Sierras had solid "chrome" nuts as did my '98 Mondeo and with anything since, did what Brian did - use Araldite! I always use a 6 point socket (not a 12 point) on them, and a torque wrench when tightening.
  13. Is it not just the canbus link direct from the ECU ? If you have access to an OBD reader, what indications do you get on that ? Fuse 20 is shown as "Instrument Cluster", the cabling from that may warrant a look.
  14. I canot offer much more help, but changed header tank on our 1.6 petrol '57 Fiesta last year as it looked like "splits" were developing, and did our '60 Fusion last week, for the same reason. Not difficult to change, and for £20, not expensive.
  15. We have a '57 plate 3 door Fiesta, and a '60 plate Fusion, and fittings are different, I don'th think they are interchageable.