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About 0shiny1

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    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 07/11/1976

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    Focus Estate 1.0 Ecoboost SCTI 123ps
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  1. Sorry for the late reply Jase, to answer your question - I've personally had no problems at all since the change over to MK 3.5 hoses, it's a really good idea to make the change over if you can. Eliminating that hose with the worrisome plastic T piece will give you peace of mind. 😁
  2. Was running on 2 cylinders and traced the fault back to the injector harness, as Tom said though mine is a 3 cylinder petrol 1.0. Coolant hoses are exactly how Tom explains. Yep I have checked the boot for leaks after seeing the posts on here about it but even after lots of heavy rain my spare tire well is dry lucky for me! (touching more wood lol). Sorry I failed to read that yours is a diesel.
  3. I must be lucky (touch wood lol) as I've not had any problems at 60k other than having to replace the injector wiring harness and change over the coolant hoses to MK 3.5 as a matter of precaution. My paranoia indicator is always beeping in the background though...
  4. A K&N E-2993 air filter? Honestly that's all I've done because I can't be bothered with the outside and can't justify a Bluefin re-map (which many say gives you a fair few more horses and a better driving experience). Only other mod I've done is change the coolant hoses to a Mk 3.5 just in case that plastic T piece decided to split.
  5. I don't know whether this will be of help Matt but here are 2 more vids (Ford Mondeo): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=va-ItdKCl8c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkhVdLhanfw
  6. Just checking back to see if you got anywhere with this problem. It's like a foreign language to me! Honestly my last remaining brain cell just melted.... Hope you eventually find this gremlin, sounds like a right PITA. There's some good vids I just found which do explain some things, this one is not Ford and not the same as your faults but if you like getting your head around this CAN BUS stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKnQI2IScPU this bloke does a good job. Another quick one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YWHrTTmWE8 notice they both use oscilloscopes. 😮
  7. Who knows?! £10 for some choccy fingers I'd pass on that and go hungry!
  8. Damn it I spotted some Cadburys snowy fingers in that pic, now I'm hungry...
  9. Can't see any coolant in you photo. Best ask the person behind the counter, the spec is usually printed on the front of the bottle.
  10. Anything with the right spec: wss-m97b44-d Last top up bottle I got from a local auto shop, made by Bluecol (OE 30/34).
  11. Motorcraft super plus premium (Ford spec: WSS-M97B44-D). If the colour isn't the same don't worry about it, apparently they are making this stuff all sorts of different colours these days. https://parts.vospers.com/genuine-ford-super-plus-premium-anti-freeze-coolant-1ltr.html (Info on changing colours/shades).
  12. No prob Matt, you never know it could be an easy fix. I would get the TPS looked at first if it was me (but like I said I'm no mechanic). I've had one vehicle (2003 diesel Transit connect) where the pedal went bad, it would basically stayed on tickover when the pedal was pressed, a quick on/off with the ignition would reset it until the next time it fluffed up, new pedal sorted it out for good. So if the TPS tests OK next I'd want the pedal looked into because they can go bad as well. I don't think your problem is related to the re-map or the K&N. Could even be something as simple as an intermittent wiring fault at the pedal or the TPS, finding the fault could be a sod though.. Best of luck!
  13. I'm no mechanic Matt so please don't take anything I say as gospel.. 🤐 Sounds like what was happening to your car and with the P1630 and the P193B there could be something going on between the throttle pedal, TPS and ECM (they all have to be best buddy's for it all to work properly). http://www.engineobd2codes.com/p1630.html At least you got the codes, a good mechanic with superior electrical knowledge would no doubt trouble shoot/test components and find what it is. I don't think its one of those problems where anyone can say "buy one of these and stick it on there that'll fix her" type of situations. I think I remember seeing a video of someone testing a TPS, it looked dodgy and I think he said you can short out the ECM if you get it wrong... so on that note I'd advise a good automotive electrical technician take a look at it.
  14. I don't think those codes from the computer mean anything (from what I've read from other people). You'll need at least a cheap OBD2 scanner/reader to pick up any pending engine fault codes.
  15. I've seen plenty of alloys that crack on the inner barrel. If tyres are sealed properly and valves are good a hairline crack can be another cause for regular pressure drop. As Pete said 'corrosion' plus sudden impact/shock via a nasty pot hole can easily cause a crack, happens more frequently with low profile tyres. Sometimes these hairline cracks can be almost invisible, you really have to look hard sometimes.