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About 0shiny1

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    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 07/11/1976

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Estate 1.0 Ecoboost SCTI 123ps
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  1. No prob Matt, you never know it could be an easy fix. I would get the TPS looked at first if it was me (but like I said I'm no mechanic). I've had one vehicle (2003 diesel Transit connect) where the pedal went bad, it would basically stayed on tickover when the pedal was pressed, a quick on/off with the ignition would reset it until the next time it fluffed up, new pedal sorted it out for good. So if the TPS tests OK next I'd want the pedal looked into because they can go bad as well. I don't think your problem is related to the re-map or the K&N. Could even be something as simple as an intermittent wiring fault at the pedal or the TPS, finding the fault could be a sod though.. Best of luck!
  2. I'm no mechanic Matt so please don't take anything I say as gospel.. 🤐 Sounds like what was happening to your car and with the P1630 and the P193B there could be something going on between the throttle pedal, TPS and ECM (they all have to be best buddy's for it all to work properly). http://www.engineobd2codes.com/p1630.html At least you got the codes, a good mechanic with superior electrical knowledge would no doubt trouble shoot/test components and find what it is. I don't think its one of those problems where anyone can say "buy one of these and stick it on there that'll fix her" type of situations. I think I remember seeing a video of someone testing a TPS, it looked dodgy and I think he said you can short out the ECM if you get it wrong... so on that note I'd advise a good automotive electrical technician take a look at it.
  3. I don't think those codes from the computer mean anything (from what I've read from other people). You'll need at least a cheap OBD2 scanner/reader to pick up any pending engine fault codes.
  4. I've seen plenty of alloys that crack on the inner barrel. If tyres are sealed properly and valves are good a hairline crack can be another cause for regular pressure drop. As Pete said 'corrosion' plus sudden impact/shock via a nasty pot hole can easily cause a crack, happens more frequently with low profile tyres. Sometimes these hairline cracks can be almost invisible, you really have to look hard sometimes.
  5. 0shiny1


    Had them on mine for the last few months and I'm still alive so they must be pretty good.
  6. That is good news Matt, like you say hopefully that will be the end of it and you can finally enjoy your car! On the bright side at least you got a brand new (un-needed) turbo for your troubles at the dealers expense and I'm sure you'll be monitoring the engine as you go... just in case. 👍
  7. This isn't exactly identical but the same technique as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umo-LN4TA8I and also towards the end of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7qEoI-anK0 You wont damage the tank because the screwdriver wont be near to the tank itself, just the outer hole/tab. Its easier to get the bottom tank hose off when the tank is off its mounts (better access). The second vid will hopefully give you some tips.
  8. Sorry I just remembered I think the clip on the bottom hose to the tank is joined in some way to the rubber pipe or they fuse themselves on, so you have to squeeze the tabs of the clip and pull and wriggle the pipe from the tank.
  9. Getting the old tank off can be a bit tricky, a flat bladed screwdriver between the metal clip and the plastic opening and a case of wiggling while pulling upwards and it should come out, I found swearing at it helped. The clip on the bottom of the tank? They also require a bit of force because if its been on there for a while, a decent pair of pliers pinching the clip together and pull and wiggle it off. The coolant you've got should be fine, from reading this: https://parts.vospers.com/genuine-ford-super-plus-premium-anti-freeze-coolant-1ltr.html in the description it says:
  10. These infamous pipes seem to be getting more and more (bad) attention on this forum.. The caps can be stiff AF you just need a dry rag to gain more grip and eat some spinach for extra power, twist anti clockwise with all your might. You won't loose much if replacing with another MK3 hose, just pull the tank up and off its mounts, disconnect the tank outlet hose and have a container ready to catch the remaining coolant out of the tank. A 1 ltr bottle of coolant will be more than enough for top up once done. I replaced mine with MK 3.5 hoses and only needed a 1 ltr bottle of coolant for top up even though I lost a bit from pulling the bottom engine hose, the only partly difficult bit with replacing with MK 3.5 hoses is getting to the bottom hose clip, if I could have found my right angled long pliers it would have been a lot easier. Really I'd recommend JW1982's advice and fit the 3.5 hoses for peace of mind, if you're not that confident and have a mate that's not bad at mechanical work that can help you that would be ideal, it's not that hard to do and won't take long.
  11. 0shiny1


    That's Ford coolant/degas hose 1829702: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273603633225 You've got the upgraded hose but they are still sh*t and prone to failure exactly where yours has lost grip with that plastic T piece. Also a good idea to check the coolant tank for cracking, they are well know for it. Please take a read through this thread, it describes replacing the above hose with much better MK 3.5 hoses: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/96502-ecoboost-degas-hose-question/#comments On page 3 of this thread I've linked where the MK 3.5 hoses can be bought. https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/96502-ecoboost-degas-hose-question/page/3/#comments
  12. For want of something better to say, they've sold you a lemon. I would insist on a full refund and return the car, there are far too many faults with this vehicle, I'd consider it unsafe to drive, you'd have to argue they should never have sold it in the first place. Just from the easy to look up generic codes: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0040 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0134 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0339 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0243 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0328
  13. Interesting, sounds to me like an electrical/electronic fault and as you say the engine still sounds smooth so you'd think it would rule out a major engine problem. I wonder whether it could be the fly by wire accelerator sensor failing or a wiring fault between the sensor and ECU. If you can understand ROBOT talk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBRJdzrGUA4 (from about 1.48 to 2 mins in that video Mr robot says about APP failure being detected by the ECU and putting the engine into limp mode). Not saying this is a definite by any means but something else they should investigate because the sensors can go bad, had experience of this before on a Transit Connect, different symptoms though.
  14. OH such a shame! 😖 Yeah definitely the right choice to go for a full refund, in writing and ASAP. Hope they don't try and f*** you about. It would be interesting to know what the fault codes are now. When the car lost power after its good 5 min run could you hear/feel misfiring - running on 2 cylinders? The reason I ask is because I recently had that and it turned out to be an electrical fault with the injector harness.
  15. Yep the old coolant pipes are of great concern if someone didn't know about the potential for disaster, even the upgraded pipe for the mk 3 which came in 2014 I think? is a crappy design and could still easily fail coz of a plastic T piece. The good news is its an easy fix for the mk 3 by replacing them with mk 3.5 hoses, there are details about that in this thread: https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/96502-ecoboost-degas-hose-question/#comments I regularly open my bonnet to check coolant and oil no matter what vehicle but plenty of peeps don't. If you're also aware they make coolant reservoirs out of ***** plastic with a limited lifespan as well (cracking eventually), as long as you keep an eye on these things you'll not have a problem.