0shiny1

Budding Enthusiast
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About 0shiny1

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 07/11/1976

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Gavin
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Estate 1.0 Ecoboost SCTI 123ps
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Kent

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  1. I think its only diesel injectors that needed coding. Replacing petrol injectors like for like should be fine, I replaced one on my 1.0L and the Haynes manual said nothing about coding/programming on petrol versions.
  2. No problem just hope you get it sorted in the end and it would be great to hear back if you do fix it for anyone else having the same problems. Here's a video which may shed some more light: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTzDY95aqXg
  3. My knowledge is pretty basic so I can't offer much help but you'd expect an engine to behave that way if there's something wrong with the air to fuel ratio (your mechanics already know this so they must've checked everything but might've missed something). If there's a vacuum leak at the intake (which can cause the same symptoms) they can be hard to spot, maybe your mechanic hasn't checked for vacuum leaks or checked once and didn't find any? A leak can easily be missed. Did he put a new gasket on the inlet when he reinstalled ? Have a good read through this article as it explains it all quite well: manifold-gasket-leak-symptoms Hope you get to the bottom of it soon, sounds like a right PITA.
  4. True it should throw up the engine check light if the TPS detects a difference in the values, my 2003 Transit Connect never did show the ECL for some reason, a few of times I remember pressing the accelerator and it went from a delayed no response to go which was pretty dangerous, it also stalled on a few occasions. Could be a number of things OP, did they check the throttle body out? A bad throttle body might also cause those problems symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-throttle-body
  5. Could it be a fault with the fly by wire accelerator pedal? I've had one go in a tranny connect van before, one moment fine then it became very erratic a bit like how you described. From what I understand (not much lol) the pedal has a potentiometer which sends a position signal through wires to the ECM telling the throttle body to open/close at the correct position, that sensor in the pedal can wear out and fail causing similar symptoms. Worth looking into if they say nothing wrong with the engine.
  6. Matt, I have a 1.0 Focus estate 125 and although it's a big car it's pretty quick, only performance mod I made was installing a K&N air filter. It will do 85mph up hill in 3rd and gets there very quick much to the amazement frustration of some BMW Audi and Merc drivers...😀 Cruising in 6th at 70 on a motorway should be no problem at all. So there is definitely something wrong with your new purchase. It would be interesting to see what fault codes come up because I'd imagine there must be some in there. Only thing I can think of is maybe its still running on the original CAT at 80k and it's failing which would severely reduce performance? Definitely needs an obd2 reader to read any codes and look into IM readiness & live data to find out what's going on, hope you get it sorted soon.
  7. If that is the case can they not just delete the clutch slip update, install the pump software and re-install the clutch slip update? I'd be tempted to try another place for a 2nd opinion tbh.
  8. As an update - no more problems up to this point so the misfiring must have been caused by the injector harness. The next time I filled up with petrol I stuck Esso supreme + in it and basically gave the engine an Italian tune up for a few days, that seems to have cured the blocked cat for now because there are no more cat codes and the cat is a pass according to OBD data. Although I expect the cat is the original and the car has passed 56k so it will probably need changing in the near future anyway. Engine is running great now so will be filling up with top tier fuel from now on.
  9. I'm not certain but am pretty sure the "updated" hose with that T piece isn't subject to recall (even though it's still clearly a bad design). It's not too bad to just do the conversion yourself if you're used to a bit of car maintenance you should be fine. The bottom engine hose clip was a bit of a pain for me to fit pliers onto, I took my sweet time and it took me an hour, coz I like to faff.. I personally did not drain the system as my coolant is fairly new but I was quick with getting the new pipes on so didn't loose much, you will need at least a 1ltr bottle of coolant as well. Links to both pipes: 2122838 (don't worry that the description says air con). 1855418
  10. Converted mine today to mk 3.5 pipes they fit well, just felt the need to turn the pipe on the bottle clockwise a bit as it was sticking up a bit high and moved the vibration dampers more suitably. Thanks for the info and posters contributions, already feel better knowing that plastic T piece is eliminated. 👍
  11. Mine pulls suddenly to the left when the road conditions and camber are just right, at first I found it quite unsettling/dangerous but have got used to it... sort of. Thank you Wilko for the detailed explanation, that makes perfect sense.👍 Is there any way to reset the PDC ourselves or do we need a Ford dealer to do it ?
  12. Yes indeed, I just ordered the mk 3.5 hoses = £46 inc vat from rates-ford/ebay. Well worth it to soothe the paranoia.
  13. If it starts - runs and dies it does sound like it could be fuel delivery, could be a lot of things though. You'll really need any logged or pending DTC's read to point you in the right direction, surprised the AA man didn't offer to plug in.
  14. Excellent info everyone, much appreciated. 👍 Mine has the later (upgraded) hose, but when I got the car I thought to myself 'hmm that plastic T piece connector don't look too clever', so I will also be upgrading the hose to the 2 X part mk 3.5 hoses just to be on the safe side. (parts ordered). First thing I did to mine when I got it was change the coolant bottle and cap, literally weeks after I bought it I noticed micro fractures and felt moisture at the bottom (not my bottom the coolant tank..) The lesser eagle eyed probably would never had noticed so it pays to open you bonnet and keep an eye out for these potential time bombs.
  15. Hi Tom, the first time it happened the tank was almost full, the second time I filled it up 3/4's (still problems), as its recently playing about its got 1/2 a tank. I no longer think its fuel related tbh, was probably a coincidence in this case. I've been working on this problem today and after fitting the brand new injector didn't cure the problem my next thought was to replace the injector wiring harness. It just so happened an engine mechanic around the corner from me had a spare injector wiring harness that he took off another ecoboost engine (same number). I've already swapped the old harness with this new harness and been for a test run. The engine runs almost fine but I can tell its still running a bit lumpy, I'm also getting some different data from the OBD2 scanner regarding the cat: Perhaps a result of the injector fault? May have chogged the cat up with rich/un-burnt fuel? So what I'm thinking now is that maybe I've finally fixed the P020 fault and that the previous misfiring has flooded the cat causing another fault lol.