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About reilig

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Zetec Edge 1.6tdci
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  1. reilig

    ABS Cable

    Cheers. I have done the rounds today. Motor factors can't get it. Main dealer sold me a lie saying that they could get it and I'd just have to plug it in. Car breakers revealed all. It's wired directly to the ECU and runs through a loom to it along with a load of other wires - not exactly a job for an amateur like myself. So I got a solder joiner and wired it back together and sealed it with tape. Said some prayers and started it up and it all worked perfect!
  2. reilig

    ABS Cable

    I damaged the abs cable on my 2012 focus while cutting out a nut in a drop like with my grinder. Just a little scuff. ABS and traction control lights are on. I can source a replacement from a local motor factors. I'm wondering if: 1. Its safe to drive a few miles to pick up the new cable. 2. How do I get access to where it plugs in inside the engine bay? It's on the left hand side. It goes through the solid part of the wheel arch. Do I need to remove the battery box? Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Car went through Irish not (nct) and got a very thorough checking. The tester could find no visible problem but mentioned that he thinks there is excess play in the CV joint. Have it booked for replacement next Monday
  4. All 3 engine mounts done. Exhaust mounts perfect. It's a definite clunk from the gearbox or driveshaft. Don't know about the rattle over rough surface but looking at Google for similar symptoms the rattle can be a symptom of the inner CV joint. Was wondering if anyone had anything similar.
  5. Anyone ever had an issue with an inner cv joint? Outer has been replaced. In recent weeks, my focus has developed a clunk when you engage first gear or when you change up or down to or from higher gears. It has a clunk when you accelerate slowly or when you decelerate in a low gear. It sounds as if there might be play in the joint and it has to turn more than the joint on the opposite side in order to engage. In the last week, it has become noisy over a rough surface. It is fine on smooth tarmac but go over a tar and chip surface or a pothole surface and there is a rattle.It has all new wishbones. Relatively new shocks, relatively new droplinks. It was on the mechanics lift last week and all ball joints are perfect. Shocks are perfect. droplinks and stabilizer bar bushings are perfect. Could it be a worn inner cv joint that makes the rattle over a rough surface? If I'm replacing the inner cv joint, will I need to put a new gearbox seal into it or will the old gearbox seal be sufficient? Any advice appreciated?
  6. reilig

    CV Joint

    Ok so my car has been checked again. Suspension and tie rods are 100%. Over the last few weeks, it has started to make a popping noise from the wheel every time that I turn - it's very audible. Also, there is noticable wear on the inner edge of the front tyre. My mechanic advises that he can find no movement in the wheel, the bearing, the suspension (Which is all 100% new) or the cv joint. But, he suspects that the popping noise means that the cv joint is worn out and this is the probable cause of the tyre wear. I have a new outer piece for the cv joint bought. It's getting new brake discs and pads all round next saturday and will get the new cv joint as well. Car has a test on March 15th. Hopefull this will solve the problem. It has been ongoing for the last 12 months.
  7. reilig

    CV Joint

    Yes, inner tie rods have been checked more than once. It does feel like a tie rod - perhaps it wasn't noticable the last time it was checked and just has worn more in recent weeks. It will be checked again at the next service next week. Gearbox oil was checked not very long ago too. It's frustrating!
  8. reilig

    CV Joint

    As part of my journey to find out why my car is clunky following gear changes in 1st and 2nd, I have now got reason to believe that I may have a cv joint issue on the passenger side. (Front left) (I have already replaced left and right wishbones, all 3 engine mounts, shocks and mounts, drop links. Car has been on lift a number of times and no fault can be found in the suspension or wheels). The problem is still there. It can be reduced depending on how and where I drive, but its still there. Going up hill, it's ok, but down hill its noticable. On rougher road surfaces (Gravel or tar and chip) there is a rattle. When I turn full lock, especially if I am reversing, there is a popping noise from the wheel. Going around roundabouts, I can hear this popping noise also. Recently, the popping noise has become more frequent. It is much more audible in frosty weather. Also, second gear has become notchy, especially when the car is cold. I'm putting it down that these popping noises are possibly a worn cv joint? I'm putting it down that the clunking noise when I change gears could be caused by extra play in the cv joint's hardy spicer? Finally, I'm guessing that the notchy gear change could be caused by worn inner cv joint which may be out of line? Anyone got any experience of cv joint and able to tell me if my assumptions are correct or not? 2012 focus Tdci 1.6. 130k miles.
  9. I'm opening a new thread on this, even thought I have a long thread on the issues which have lead me to here. My 12 focus 1.6tcdi has had a range of new parts fitted to try to solve clunking and rattling noises. It's still no better. It has had 2 x new wishbones. New shocks and mounts, all 3 engine mounts replaced, new drop links. The car has been in 4 different garages, including a main dealer and slight wear in all of these have been identified as potential causes of the clunk as I move up and down gears 1 to 3. But while some of these replacements have solved the problem for a few days or up to a week, the clunk keeps coming back. It feels like something is physically moving at the bottom of the engine. I can make it move by accelerating hard in gears 1 to 3 and decelerating suddenly. As the gearbox takes the force of the slowdown, there is a clunk and movement. It is far more noticible when the car is cold! This week, I seem to have developed more of a rattle, which possibly comes from the same place as this clunk noise - it is audible when i go over a rough surface or when I hit a pothole. It is on the right side, but when I hit a pothole on the left side, it seems to transfer through to the right side as well. This leads me to this thread. The anti - roll bar transfer roll and movement from side to side, so hitting a pothole on the left would transfer to the right? I don't know much about anti-roll bars. I replaced the drop links myself only last week. The roll bar seems secure, but it was attached to the drop link on the other side - so I'm guessing that it would need to be on a lift to check it out. Is it possible that the bushings could be worn and causing the clunk? (I read that the bushings will squeek when worn, but mine have not squeeked. Or could the flexibility of the roll bar be compromised - could it be flexing too much? I'm guessing that the best way to check it is to remove both drop links and bring it for a drive - is it safe to do that? Any information, ideas or advice would be appreciated!
  10. It's no good. I changed the second drop link on saturday. it behaved perfectly for 24 hours. Had a long drive to do on sunday afternoon and the clunking between gear changes was back by the end of the 150 mile round trip. It slowly got worse and worse. I'm at a serious loss here. What other component could be worn in the front end that might cause clunking?
  11. 3 weeks further on. In the last 6 months, I believe that I have replaced my whole front end suspension. This was because I felt a clunking as I changed up or down in low gears. At carious times, I also felt vibrations or rattles in each of the front wheels at different times. It was extremely hard to diagnose. I could drive it for a week and it would be rattly as hell and as happened one night when I was on my way to my local mechanic to put it on his lift, I hot a bump and it was perfect again. It started with engine mounts - the bottom one first - it was goosed and causing major engine swing. After replacing it, there was still a clunk. Gear changes also felt notchy - especially when the car was cold. A week later I noticed oil leaking from the top right one. I replaced it (it was obviously gone for a while - you could see the tracks on its rubber where the engine was moving. I replaced the one under the battery too even though it looked to be in perfect condition. For about 7 days after replacing all of these mounts, the car drove perfectly. No clunking, no notchy gear change, no vibrations or rattles. But unfortunately, it started again. The clunk that it was making felt like the engine was moving forward and back. I changed the bottom engine mount which left it driving perfect again for a week. But it started again. My mechanic friend put it on his lift and went through the whole suspension, but could find no movement - bar a weathered wishbone bushing which wasn't moving. We drove it over his pit, checked everything with weight on it. Checked droplinks etc. but still could not find anything. A pretty reputable and experienced place fitted tyres for me (they also specialise in suspensions - I got them to go through the suspension, drop links etc for me. But they could find no problem. I stood under their lift as they went through it, but could find no problem and could give no explanation for the clunking while driving it. Brough it to a ford garage. Paid €100 for to have them inspect it. They told me that all focus's of that era clunk. It didn't clunk when I bought it. I drover it for 10,000 miles before it began to clunk. In recent weeks it got more rattly. Most of the rattle seemed to emit from the left side - the side with the weathered wishbone bushing. I got my mechanic to replace the whole wishbone (€70 + labour.). This made it feel perfect for 48 hours. But as we drove home from a wedding over 100 miles away, it developed a loud knocking from the left side, and the clunk on gear change began again. I jacked it up and could clearly identify that there was movement in the shock on the left side. My mechanic removed the shock and the mount and bearing completely fell apart. He identified that both shocks were gone completely - they did not rise after being compressed. New shocks and mounts €340. I put a new wishbone on the right side at this time too which cost me €70 to buy but was included in the shocks labour. As before, the car was perfect for a week. Then, it developed a vibration in the front left wheel when I drove over 50mph. Within a day after that, the clunking was back when I changed gears. As well as that, there is a rattle when I hit a small bump or when I go over a rough road surface. Also, gear changes became more notchy That was last week. I'm so pi$$ed off with it. It's a fantastic car to drive with great handling and great power. But I have had a long line of Renault's before this car and none have ever given such problems. So last week, I'm on google looking at what parts I may have missed that could be causing the problem. Realistically, the only thing I have not changed is the drop links. So I order what I think is a set. A package arrived yesterday containing only one. I put it on the left side myself late last night. Removed the old one and it does no appear worn at all. Had it out on the open road this morning. The clunking between gear changes is gone. Gear changes are really smooth. The vibration over 50mph on the left side has now moved to the right hand side and is not half as bad. The really noticable difference is when I hit a bump with the left side and there is no rattle. I have ordered the drop link for the right side this morning. I'm hoping and praying that it might just solve my problem and get rid of the vibration from the right side altogether. It is possible that the failure of all of these components is linked? ie. Drop link failure linked to shock failure linked to engine mount failure?
  12. 7 weeks on again and I'd like to think that this time it's sorted. The car got much worse 2 weeks ago. You could be driving slow in town and when you would accelerate, you would feel the whole front suspension move back towards you and there was a noise in the left side as you crossed bumps. Trial and error at this stage so I bought a full wishbone for the left side. £60 to ease my mind about it falling apart. My mechanic fitted it a week ago and it was perfect for 10 miles. The movement started again and I could feel a wobble in the right side of the suspension at speeds over 50mph. I swore that this would be the last money that I would spend on it as I spent another £60 for the RHS wishbone. Mechanic fitted it first thing this morning, checked droplinks, sway bar bushings, wheel bearings, shocks and shock mounts. He is as frustrated as me with it. He drove it for an hour around town and it appears ok to him (Maybe getting close to needing shocks, but what can you expect from a car with 120k miles). Spent the rest of the morning driving it myself. It seems so much better. There is no movement in the suspension or the engine bay. Gears are so much easier to select. There is no clunk as you accelerate and decelerate. We have gone through the old wishbones and cannot find wear in them. The big bushing on both is perfect. The smaller bushing is tight. The ball joint shows no excessive movement. But the car drives like it should with the 2 new wishbones. Lets hope it stays that way.
  13. I would be really grateful if you could suggest to me what else it could be? Last week, just before I went to my mechanic, my car suddenly stopped knocking and drove 100%. It drove perfect until last night again when I hit a small bump and all of the above symptoms are in it again. My mechanic was very thorough last week. He put it on the lift and he checked: Wheel bearings Shocks Wishbone bushings and ball joints. Droplinks Steering components Driveshaft carrier bearing, Cv joints Engine mounts (All 3 are new in the last month). Exhaust brackets. Then he put it over his pit to test it with weight on it. The only thing that he could find was a very slight movement in the passenger side wishbone bushing. It's extremely slight and could in no way cause the knock that has re-appeared. As I said, the knock is back big time since last night. What else is in the suspension that could cause a knock? Are there bushings in the sway bar and what are the symptoms? Is there anything else that we should be looking at?
  14. Things have gotten worse for me in the last 7 days. Maybe that's what needed to happen in order for to identify the problem. I definitely have the most solid 2012 focus engine in the country. All new mounts and a new dogbone mount holder. There isn't a rattle or a vibration from it. But I have a problem which has gotten worse. 1. A knock in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear as I change gear. . This week, I have a knock going over bumps - hell, it doesn't even take a bump. The car makes a lot of noise just going over a gravel type road. 2. The car feels jerky in first gear - like rubber moving. It also feels jerky when I decelerate. Gear changes have become a little notchy too. I believe that all of this movement is coming from something worn in the suspension. Most likely a wishbone mount, but also perhaps worn drop links or even worn mounts on the anti roll bar. It is going up on the lift this evening for a full check out. It has been on the lift a few times in the last few months and all of these things have been checked, but maybe this time, it has worn enough to be visible. I'm hoping it's something simple enough.
  15. I tried a powerflex bush in my dogbone mount and it caused nothing but heavy vibration. I wasn't happy with it at all.