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About DarrenNewsgroup

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.4 TDCi
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  1. I've fixed it! Thanks for everyone's help. Is there a way to edit the title to add RESOLVED? It was the 12V feed wire from the R3 fuse to the reversing light switch in the gearbox. I had to run a new wire from the glove box R3 fuse to the reversing switch connector. The main problem was breaking through the firewall. I found very little on Google and YouTube so I have uploaded some pictures of where I made the hole (circled in blue). Some people had said not to use a screwdriver but that's what I used (a nice long 450mm one with a similar thickness to my wire). I made t
  2. Thanks for that suggestion. While it doesn't explain my situation (broken wire so no 12V on the wire) it may help someone else when researching no reversing light if they stumble across this thread. Darren
  3. Ok new update. I confirmed the grey wire from the fuse box to the reversing switch connector is faulty. I need a new wire to run from the fuse box to the grey wire at the reversing switch connector. I had tried to get to the back of the fuse box but realised as well as the 2 visible bolts there are at least 2 other bolts at the top left that were being obscured by the passenger left side air vent ducting. As a test I managed to jam a small wire into the F3 fuse hole and then push the fuse into its hole and so holding the wire still. I then connected this wire to the grey wire en
  4. Today's update.... Fortunately my new voltmeter (DVM) leads arrived today (my old leads were playing up and unreliable) so I managed to test for 12V using my DVM without resorting to the light cluster. With the ignition switch set to II position I confirmed that fuse 3 (reversing light) had 12V on it, as did fuse 2 (stop light). Thanks to King683 I know the (c1/2 in King683's picture) gray wire going into the reversing switch plug should be 12V but it was 0V. This confirmed my previous tests. I inserted a temporary wire into the spade connector side of the (c1/1 in the picture)
  5. Thanks king683. She has the "without keyless system". I'll try and check it out tomorrow.
  6. Thanks for the reply. However when I remove the wiring plug from reverse trigger switch (I assume you mean the one that is the one inside the gearbox) and connect a wire from one pin of the wiring plug to the other pin this should be the same as the reverse trigger switch closing and so the reversing lights should light up. I didn't see that, so I don't see why replacing the switch would fix anything. I don't mean to sound ungrateful but could someone explain why replacing the trigger switch should work in my case. Also if I replace the switch does oil come out of the hole and if so
  7. The reverse lights on my daughter's 2009 Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCi Zetec don't come on. First question, is this a Mk7 or Mk6 car? Some say 7 and others say 6. The Ford plate on the driver's door says JA8 which I have seen mentioned in engine parts websites. I have searched the forums about no reversing lights and found useful stuff, mostly pointing to the reversing light switch. This is what I have done so far... Checked the 2 bulbs (one each side). They work in another car. Checked the 7.5A fuse 3 in the passenger's side fuse box. It buzzes out fine. Unplugged the rev
  8. The other good thing is that ForScan showed no DTC codes which is nice to know. The next problem is no reversing lights. Light bulbs are OK, fuse 3 behind glove box is OK, next to try is the reversing light switch. Oh well time to get dirty under the bonnet. Darren
  9. Good news. I bought an ignition lock, door lock, genuine remote key for the 2 locks off eBay. This key looked better than my daughter's key! Once that arrived I got another key blade cut to fit that lock off eBay and fitted it to my daughter's existing key fob. I also bought the recommended OBD2 reader from TunnelRat. I also got ForScan for an old Windows laptop. I successfully managed to fit the locks, reprogrammed the remote control to the 2 keys and then used the OBD2/ForScan to add the new remote key to the car. Total cost £69, result. Thanks for the advice guys/gals. D
  10. EGR valve dirty or clogged up? I also bought my daughter a Mk6 Fiesta 1.4 TDCi and had problems starting rough. Eventually sold it to someone else (I disclosed all the faults I knew about), turns out there were out faults I didn't know about. Other people on this forum kindly suggested the EGR, especially if it cleared up once warm. The car also had the yellow warning light come on. I hope yours isn't as bad as my daughter's was. Good luck. Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks for that. Does the manual say anything about removing the battery and letting the airbag capacitors discharge (15 minutes)? I have heard that is a wise step but disconnecting the battery for a long time always seems to run the risk of need to recode the radio and other stuff, but if I really need to then I will. Don't want to set off the airbag, but then i shouldn't be anywhere near it.
  12. I think £150 is reasonable and he will come to my daughter's place. He got in to my other daughter's VW when she locked the only key in the car and was very friendly and professional. It is just a big jump up to £400 that my daughter can't really afford. Dad just trying to keep her costs down. He also won't repair my *****-up, nor fit parts that he didn't supply. I understand that. It looks as fitting the ignition lock is the stumbling block in this whole sorry saga.
  13. There is no point building locks around the original key as the thief has one of the keys as well. What tools and knowledge do I need for the ignition lock? If it is too tricky then the current auto locksmith won't fit parts that he did not supply.
  14. That's worth knowing as my other daughter has a 2009 Mk7 Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCi as well. Thanks
  15. My daughter had her 2009 Mk7 Ford Fiesta stolen but fortunately recovered a few days later due to a kind person phoning the police as the thieves tried to hide the car. The thieves know my daughter's address and have one of her keys. Therefore, I need a new driver's door lock, ignition lock (barrel?) and key for these locks. I have seen a YouTube video that shows replacing the driver's door lock and it looks easy (remove rubber grommet, undo Torx bolt, remove lock, insert new lock, redo Torx bolt, refit grommet). What I haven't found is a reliable video that shows the ignition lock replac
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