DarrenNewsgroup

Budding Enthusiast
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About DarrenNewsgroup

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Darren
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.4 TDCi
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Gloucestershire
  1. A final update on the car saga. I rang the chap who bought (a few weeks ago) the car to see if he managed to fix it and get it back on the road. Sadly he rattled off several other faults with the car so I guess we will never be able to say EXACTLY how the car was faulty. It would have been nice to be able to help others. Thanks to the people who have contributed their time and effort in trying to help me but this car was beyond me. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  2. An update on the car. I sold it. I had too many other house jobs to do so I put it up for sale and mentioned the known faults thinking if someone would buy it cheap to fix then the problem is off my hands. Nobody in my family needed the car so I would only be fixing it to sell it again. If nobody bought it then I would get back to fixing it when I finished my other jobs (months away). I told the person about the problems so he knew he was buying a faulty car. He seemed to know what he was looking at. He thought it was NOT the injectors. I asked him to tell me what the problem was when he gets it fixed. I will report back when (if) he replies in case it helps someone else. Thanks to everyone for their help. Even though I didn't get it fixed I appreciate your time and efforts. Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  3. Sorry for the long delay in replying back to all the help you have given. Mr daughter bought another car as an immediate fix to get transport issues. The faulty car is now on my front drive and I now have the chance to try and fix it at my leisure as I no longer need to take bits apart and put back together again for my daughter to use the next day. I have more immediate jobs in the house so it may be a few weeks before I report back on my progress. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  4. I am attaching the photos to this post. The picture with the item in my hand, is that the MAP sensor? Another photo shows that bit screwed to the air box, that's where I found it on my car. As you can see the tube is not attached to anything. The photo of the engine bay without the air box is to show all the pipework and I can't see a spare pipe to attach to the MAP sensor. I did manage to clear the fault code and it didn't come on again when I started the car but your advice probably explains why (I didn't use the turbo). My daughter said today that she wants to throw the car away as it won't go above 60mph without jolting badly. I guess that is the MAP sensor/ECU saying no boost so it'll probably have the fault code again when she gets back home. Drive she wants to throw the car away or at least get a second car to drive and boyfriend can use this one as a run around I cancelled the injector clean. The photo with me pointing at the air box corner is to do with asking what the plastic bar does. The air intake one shows the broken screw. Darren
  5. One extra question on the photos in https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kIxR7mmX7VM3n_zuGb9xCUxvQqVvdUiw is what does the black "bar" do on the side of the air box (I am pointing to it in the picture). It doesn't seem to connect to anything and just flaps up and down. Thanks Darren
  6. Sorry for the delay in responding but I have only just been able to get access to the car! I found the MAP sensor thanks to the diagram. It was attached to the top left (looking down into the engine bay) of the air box. I am uploading some photos to a Google drive folder https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kIxR7mmX7VM3n_zuGb9xCUxvQqVvdUiw It has 5 photos and 2 videos. I think one of the problems is that the MAP sensor has a tube coming out of it at the bottom but on my daughter's car it is not connected to anything, just free air. The hose 9H308 is missing! However I managed to clear the MAP fault with the Android app Torque and confirmed it had gone with FORscan demo. The 2 videos show the engine bay, one with the air box removed. I am not sure if someone can locate the offending hose. I looked at all the hoses around and they all seem to start and end somewhere so I think the house is just not fitted to the car. I don't know when it disappeared or was missing when we bought the car. One of the photos shows the exit hole from the air box before going past the MAF sensor. This photo is meant to show a broken screw in the bottom middle of the photo (it looks brown). The screw head sheared off when I first undid the screw. Any ideas on how to remove it so I can replace it with a new one? I thought of drilling it out but that seems tricky due to restricted access. I tried a bit of WD40 but didn't go crazy with it in case it gets stuck on the inside of the tubing as I guess that is not good going into the engine. After the little bit of WD40 I tried grasping it with some mole grips but they never made a tight contact. One photo of the bay (minus the air box) shows the 2 dirty injectors and the 2 clean ones. Also perhaps someone can find the missing MAP sensor hose from it if they don't/can't see the videos. Any help will be appreciated. I have chickened out from cleaning the injectors and getting my mechanic to do them. Thanks Darren
  7. Thanks for checking that for me. I will probably have a go at cleaning the exterior then. Looking at the receipts I notice the previous owner had 2 injector seals replaced and cleaned about 6 months ago. I guess I will end up needing to do the other 2 now. Hopefully that will fix most of the car's problems and my daughter can get to start liking it. I am thinking of getting it a full service, injectors resealed and cleaned, cambelt and water pump (drive the car is just over 10 years old with 95,000 miles on the clock). Is there anything else I should get done by the mechanic while he is at it (thinking cheaper labour costs whilst the car is already in bits). It had new discs and pads a few months before I bought it. Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  8. Hmmmm, if the injectors are not seated fully then I guess there is the chance of gunk slipping down the gaps or more likely the IPA getting in. All the videos that I've seen clean the gunk once the injectors have been removed and all holes plugged up with rags. Perhaps I better leave the cleaning alone until I've diagnosed any injector faults by the electrical tests. If an injector is faulty then I'll see about my mechanic doing the cleaning. Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  9. Thank you so much for all that detailed information, especially about high pressure pipes. I want to stay safe! I am going to try and track down the MAP sensor fault first as I think that is probably what is causing the poor performance my daughter is currently seeing. I would then move on to looking at what I can do with the injectors in place. Researching I see some people treating the injectors with kid gloves saying they break easy and others treating them as a lump of metal. I am not stupid enough to believe everything on YouTube so I might chicken out of unscrewing the injectors. However, if I can do a lot of the diagnostic work to figure out what needs replacing rather than paying mechanics labour rates I am willing to do that; it's also quite interesting. I can get IPA quite easily so should I just put it on (pour it on or apply with small paintbrush?) the leaked diesel around the injector area, leave it for a few minutes, then try scraping off any loosened gunk, hoover the bits up, then repeat until fully clean (or clean enough)? Also I have now got my email notifications working so I don't miss anything. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  10. , Two other questions (sorry for asking so much but I've been learning loads about this car). Q1, there are supposed to be 2 bolts that hold each injector down, should I tighten these up to ensure the injectors are seated correctly? Is there a torque value I should tighten them up to? Q2, if the injectors are booked down directly can I spray carb cleaner around the area, agitate the area with a knife/toothbrush, then use a thin tube connected to a hoover to clean up as much gunk out of the area so I can tell if more diesel is being sprayed/leaking out? Thanks Darren
  11. Thanks for that picture, that will give me something to look for. As for the injectors I have read that you can test the resistance with a digital volt meter (I've got one of them). I can also test the DC supply 12V on one wire and 0V on the other. I can also test the firing pulse from the ECU via a special tool with a light and wire to the battery. Instead of the light could I use my DVM and see some sort of average voltage? I am guessing the pulse is 12V grounded to 0V for a short period so perhaps my DVM would read 3V if it is being grounded 75% of the time or 9V if 25%. These tests I could do without removing the injectors, probably just unscrewing the wiring loom (?) from above the injectors. I have also read that you can test a fitting injector by a 2 foot long screwdriver pressed against each injector. I guess the firing makes a vibration that goes up the screwdriver and you can "hear" it is you get your head close to the handle end, obviously keeping clothes and long hair out of the way of the engine and moving parts. Question, are these good tests to help isolate injector failures? Would it help to upload an audio recording of the engine to see if anyone can hear any chuffing or misfiring? I have also read about cleaning injectors yourself but I don't want to go down that route yet. Thanks Darren P.S. I have the "notify me of replies" but I haven't had any emails yet. Is this feature of the site working? EDIT: I think I have fixed this bit, it seems the default nitification settings are to popup on the website rather than send an email. I've hopefully ticked the email response so I can keep track of you great people's replies.
  12. Thanks guys for the responses. She said today that the car was really juddering at 70mph on the motorway so had to slow it down to 60mph. She is not happy at the moment. I will try and remove the EGR valve on the weekend and clean it up and remove the blanking plate (£3 off eBay). I will look at how to do the leak off test. What should I use to clean the EGR with? Darren
  13. Hi, first post of a new member. My daughter's Fiesta 1.4 TDCi 2008 (mark 6 facelift) has some problem that I am hoping someone can help with. When she bought it the car seemed fine but on the way home (motorway driving 70mph) I noticed about 6 times the car would lose power for less than a second and then recover. When we got it checked at our garage they said there were fault codes saying the EGR valve was faulty and injector 2 reported a misfire. They didn't give the exact codes but they reset them and said that they would probably come back again. The car would start first time but sounded rough and after a few minutes driving would show the engine warning light and stop. Restarting the car was ok and the car would drive fine afterwards. Sometimes the car would stop 2 or 3 times. It seemed once the car was warmed up it was ok. Looking on this site and others the first port of call was the EGR valve. I tried Wynns EGR valve cleaner sprayed into the air intake but this did not fix the problem. When the car was cold it would conk out once or twice before driving normally. I also put some Wynns injector cleaner for diesel engines in the fuel tank with at least 20 litres of diesel. My next attempt was to blank off the EGR valve which I managed to do by just removing the MAF pipework, air box and piping but leaving the fuel filter in place, unscrewing the 2 separate 8mm EGR valve bolts, pulling the EGR valve away slightly, inserting the blanking plate between the EGR and the existing metal shim, then tightening the bolts again and finally reassembling the air box and reconnecting the MAF pipework and electrical connector. This did not fix the problem the next morning but it did seem to make things better a few days later CV but I'm not sure if that is a placebo effect or not. After doing the EGR valve blanking my ELM327 OBD2 reader and Android "FORScan Demo" app showed error codes P0238-E0 and P0002-00. I managed to reset the P0002-00 code and it has not come back but the P0238-00 persists. Googling shows this error is Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High. Did I knock/move something whilst doing the EGR blanking? I have tried googling the boost sensor location on my car to investigate but can't find is location. The check engine light stays on because of this fault code I believe. Currently it is the only fault code showing on the car. When I had the air box off I looked at the 4 injectors and the leftmost 2 injectors seemed gunked up around the tops (faulty seals?) but the rightmost 2 look clean. Questions Q1 Could the injector misfire be a one off problem logged from years ago as I have not seen the code since the code garage reset it. The car has shown the check engine light regularly and sometimes even the exclamation mark light with system fault see owner's manual. Q2 Is the P0238-E0 error due to the EGR blanking plate confusing the ECU or did I move/break the boost pressure sensor? Q3 Should it get the injector seals cleaned and replaced? Q4 Should I get a new injector 2? How can I tell whether this is a good idea since it will be £165 + labour just on the off chance of fixing something? The car is drivable at the moment, just some days it stops and my daughter says it lacks acceleration. I am happy to unscrew simple things but am put off bleeding fuel systems as I have never done it before. I can perform simple checks/fixes on weekends only. Sorry for the long post but I felt it better to explain the full story first rather than bouncing between myself and any helpers with the obvious first tests. Thanks Darren