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About DarrenNewsgroup

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.4 TDCi
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  1. EGR valve dirty or clogged up? I also bought my daughter a Mk6 Fiesta 1.4 TDCi and had problems starting rough. Eventually sold it to someone else (I disclosed all the faults I knew about), turns out there were out faults I didn't know about. Other people on this forum kindly suggested the EGR, especially if it cleared up once warm. The car also had the yellow warning light come on. I hope yours isn't as bad as my daughter's was. Good luck. Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks for that. Does the manual say anything about removing the battery and letting the airbag capacitors discharge (15 minutes)? I have heard that is a wise step but disconnecting the battery for a long time always seems to run the risk of need to recode the radio and other stuff, but if I really need to then I will. Don't want to set off the airbag, but then i shouldn't be anywhere near it.
  3. I think £150 is reasonable and he will come to my daughter's place. He got in to my other daughter's VW when she locked the only key in the car and was very friendly and professional. It is just a big jump up to £400 that my daughter can't really afford. Dad just trying to keep her costs down. He also won't repair my *****-up, nor fit parts that he didn't supply. I understand that. It looks as fitting the ignition lock is the stumbling block in this whole sorry saga.
  4. There is no point building locks around the original key as the thief has one of the keys as well. What tools and knowledge do I need for the ignition lock? If it is too tricky then the current auto locksmith won't fit parts that he did not supply.
  5. That's worth knowing as my other daughter has a 2009 Mk7 Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCi as well. Thanks
  6. My daughter had her 2009 Mk7 Ford Fiesta stolen but fortunately recovered a few days later due to a kind person phoning the police as the thieves tried to hide the car. The thieves know my daughter's address and have one of her keys. Therefore, I need a new driver's door lock, ignition lock (barrel?) and key for these locks. I have seen a YouTube video that shows replacing the driver's door lock and it looks easy (remove rubber grommet, undo Torx bolt, remove lock, insert new lock, redo Torx bolt, refit grommet). What I haven't found is a reliable video that shows the ignition lock replacement. An auto locksmith said that if I did it wrong it would be a disaster. Not sure if the job is fiddly or he is just trying to frighten me to get him to do the job. I am not stupid and I can follow instructions from forums/videos if the only tools required are spanners/screwdrivers/etc. He quoted about £250 to supply/fit driver and ignition locks. This is on top of the expected cost of him deleting the 2 old keys (one my daughter has and one the thief has) from the ECU(?), coding the key that would come with the locks and supplying/coding a 2nd key. I have found a key lock, ignition lock and a 3 button remote key for about £75 so this is a big saving for my daughter. Are there different models of locks/key for a 2009 Mk7 Fiesta or are they all the same? Can anyone help with instructions/video? Can anyone recommend an auto locksmith in the Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire area? Is £150 for a new key plus coding 2 keys and deleting the old keys seem reasonable price? Thanks Darren
  7. A final update on the car saga. I rang the chap who bought (a few weeks ago) the car to see if he managed to fix it and get it back on the road. Sadly he rattled off several other faults with the car so I guess we will never be able to say EXACTLY how the car was faulty. It would have been nice to be able to help others. Thanks to the people who have contributed their time and effort in trying to help me but this car was beyond me. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  8. An update on the car. I sold it. I had too many other house jobs to do so I put it up for sale and mentioned the known faults thinking if someone would buy it cheap to fix then the problem is off my hands. Nobody in my family needed the car so I would only be fixing it to sell it again. If nobody bought it then I would get back to fixing it when I finished my other jobs (months away). I told the person about the problems so he knew he was buying a faulty car. He seemed to know what he was looking at. He thought it was NOT the injectors. I asked him to tell me what the problem was when he gets it fixed. I will report back when (if) he replies in case it helps someone else. Thanks to everyone for their help. Even though I didn't get it fixed I appreciate your time and efforts. Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  9. Sorry for the long delay in replying back to all the help you have given. Mr daughter bought another car as an immediate fix to get transport issues. The faulty car is now on my front drive and I now have the chance to try and fix it at my leisure as I no longer need to take bits apart and put back together again for my daughter to use the next day. I have more immediate jobs in the house so it may be a few weeks before I report back on my progress. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  10. I am attaching the photos to this post. The picture with the item in my hand, is that the MAP sensor? Another photo shows that bit screwed to the air box, that's where I found it on my car. As you can see the tube is not attached to anything. The photo of the engine bay without the air box is to show all the pipework and I can't see a spare pipe to attach to the MAP sensor. I did manage to clear the fault code and it didn't come on again when I started the car but your advice probably explains why (I didn't use the turbo). My daughter said today that she wants to throw the car away as it won't go above 60mph without jolting badly. I guess that is the MAP sensor/ECU saying no boost so it'll probably have the fault code again when she gets back home. Drive she wants to throw the car away or at least get a second car to drive and boyfriend can use this one as a run around I cancelled the injector clean. The photo with me pointing at the air box corner is to do with asking what the plastic bar does. The air intake one shows the broken screw. Darren
  11. One extra question on the photos in https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kIxR7mmX7VM3n_zuGb9xCUxvQqVvdUiw is what does the black "bar" do on the side of the air box (I am pointing to it in the picture). It doesn't seem to connect to anything and just flaps up and down. Thanks Darren
  12. Sorry for the delay in responding but I have only just been able to get access to the car! I found the MAP sensor thanks to the diagram. It was attached to the top left (looking down into the engine bay) of the air box. I am uploading some photos to a Google drive folder https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kIxR7mmX7VM3n_zuGb9xCUxvQqVvdUiw It has 5 photos and 2 videos. I think one of the problems is that the MAP sensor has a tube coming out of it at the bottom but on my daughter's car it is not connected to anything, just free air. The hose 9H308 is missing! However I managed to clear the MAP fault with the Android app Torque and confirmed it had gone with FORscan demo. The 2 videos show the engine bay, one with the air box removed. I am not sure if someone can locate the offending hose. I looked at all the hoses around and they all seem to start and end somewhere so I think the house is just not fitted to the car. I don't know when it disappeared or was missing when we bought the car. One of the photos shows the exit hole from the air box before going past the MAF sensor. This photo is meant to show a broken screw in the bottom middle of the photo (it looks brown). The screw head sheared off when I first undid the screw. Any ideas on how to remove it so I can replace it with a new one? I thought of drilling it out but that seems tricky due to restricted access. I tried a bit of WD40 but didn't go crazy with it in case it gets stuck on the inside of the tubing as I guess that is not good going into the engine. After the little bit of WD40 I tried grasping it with some mole grips but they never made a tight contact. One photo of the bay (minus the air box) shows the 2 dirty injectors and the 2 clean ones. Also perhaps someone can find the missing MAP sensor hose from it if they don't/can't see the videos. Any help will be appreciated. I have chickened out from cleaning the injectors and getting my mechanic to do them. Thanks Darren
  13. Thanks for checking that for me. I will probably have a go at cleaning the exterior then. Looking at the receipts I notice the previous owner had 2 injector seals replaced and cleaned about 6 months ago. I guess I will end up needing to do the other 2 now. Hopefully that will fix most of the car's problems and my daughter can get to start liking it. I am thinking of getting it a full service, injectors resealed and cleaned, cambelt and water pump (drive the car is just over 10 years old with 95,000 miles on the clock). Is there anything else I should get done by the mechanic while he is at it (thinking cheaper labour costs whilst the car is already in bits). It had new discs and pads a few months before I bought it. Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  14. Hmmmm, if the injectors are not seated fully then I guess there is the chance of gunk slipping down the gaps or more likely the IPA getting in. All the videos that I've seen clean the gunk once the injectors have been removed and all holes plugged up with rags. Perhaps I better leave the cleaning alone until I've diagnosed any injector faults by the electrical tests. If an injector is faulty then I'll see about my mechanic doing the cleaning. Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  15. Thank you so much for all that detailed information, especially about high pressure pipes. I want to stay safe! I am going to try and track down the MAP sensor fault first as I think that is probably what is causing the poor performance my daughter is currently seeing. I would then move on to looking at what I can do with the injectors in place. Researching I see some people treating the injectors with kid gloves saying they break easy and others treating them as a lump of metal. I am not stupid enough to believe everything on YouTube so I might chicken out of unscrewing the injectors. However, if I can do a lot of the diagnostic work to figure out what needs replacing rather than paying mechanics labour rates I am willing to do that; it's also quite interesting. I can get IPA quite easily so should I just put it on (pour it on or apply with small paintbrush?) the leaked diesel around the injector area, leave it for a few minutes, then try scraping off any loosened gunk, hoover the bits up, then repeat until fully clean (or clean enough)? Also I have now got my email notifications working so I don't miss anything. Thanks Darren Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk