samevansinworthi

Budding Enthusiast
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About samevansinworthi

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    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Sam
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus 2015 Titanium X
  • Ford Year
    2015
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. Same here David. Very odd. I’m on build 18025 and have re-installed several times and observe the same behaviour as above. I think the latest build for the V 3.0 is 19xxx. Although there are several different ones knocking about. If you google it, you can download ‘official’ and not ‘official’ files of later builds. I am a software developer and love a risk, but not to brick my car! I have seen evidence that there are multiple hardware configurations of SYNC 3 about and it’s a bit like iOS. Once it gets to a certain age, Ford doesn’t update as much or if at all. The same happened with SYNC 2. Hopefully someone more knowledgable will be able to help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Did you look for the APIM settings for a SYNC 3 car with the same add ons? Then used that to update yours when you changed over? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I don’t have the harness for the hub as I had to keep it when I upgraded to Sync 3. £180 for SYNC 2 APIM/hub and the SD card? Then P&P? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I’ve got a SYNC 2, USB hub and SD Card for sale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I have a MK 3.5 and I bought the twin USB hub. I changed mine over and used the old Sync 2 hub, you will be able to power it, but it will offer no connectivity across the USB line. Only over BT. You may also get some warnings about changing the hub until you change it over. I then changed over to the new hub when I got home (I work away). I don’t remember seeing a single USB connector for the Sync 3 hub around the bazaars. You might be able to. You would only need a single if you want to use the front piggyback socket in the front of the FL Focus. AFAIK the hub is the same across the line. The only difference would be the adapter to fill out the slot which you can see in some of the videos on Hub replacement. YouTube it. You can also just solder the connectors and not pay ridiculous amounts for a connector! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Try turning down your dash brightness. Turns out, it turns down the brightness of your SYNC 3! Well it does on my MK 3 FL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. You will only be able to up date your SYNC 3 to the year of the original vehicle you got it from. There are a few hardwares variants out there. I think they changed to higher storage in the MY 18/19 screens. That said, you will be able to put the hard drive from a new vehicle with the screen of the one you have. TL;DR, don’t try and search the internet for a newer version as you could brick the unit. It doesn’t do it with mine as I have mine set to night all the time. You can program the theme to a darker one using FORscan though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Which Vers of SYNC 3 are you on? IIRC it solved this issue in 3 V 18025. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I have a SYNC 2 unit and hub/SD Card left over from my upgrade to SYNC 3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Good morning all, I upgraded my SYNC 2 to SYNC 3 and it went really well. I have coded the APIM etc and it shows up the park assist picture of the car with the colours etc. Now, when I come near any objects, it takes some time and it appears that there is a delay between the object (I can see in the rear camera), how close it is and the picture/beeps registering on the display. I have got what would be very close in the SYNC 2 system and it would show red and in SYNC 3 it saying I am still green/amber. I have the OEM sensors installed. Do the sensors need to be re-calibrated or is there some more coding to be done? I loaded the as built data from a 2017 exact copy version of my TiT X. Thank you in advance.
  11. Looks good mate, serial seems to match up for a sync 3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks Banko! Managed to sort it without disconnecting. All installed and updated and better than Sync 2! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I have just upgraded this myself and mine came with SYNC 3 Version 2.2. If you have a SYNC 3 Version 1.0, you will need to have either the VIN of the vehicle you had it from or you choose a vehicle from the same MY as the APIM you have. Believe it or not there are a few hardware configurations for SYNC 3 and it is quite important you download the SYNC update that matches what you have (NAV Vs Non Nav and if you have a later version MY 18/19) as they will not update correctly. For example, my SYNC 3 APIM was from MY 17. So I choose a Focus from 2017 with similar features as mine (Nav etc) and got their reg and then VIN and then onto the SYNC updates website for FORD and then download and update. The only after action you will have to do, is to amend the log after you have completed the update to the donor VIN in a word document and then upload that or you won't get the maps update afterwards.
  14. Stupid question alert! I have just upgraded to SYNC 3, thank you so much @mastachaz. It was very easy compared to how I had dreaded it! I have one issue remaining, the new USB Hub. I have ordered a replacement hub and adapter loom from Ebay. I have connected the loom to the hub and the connector that goes into the existing power connector is a little big, but fits. There is no power to the hub though.. So in true fault-finding mode, I thought I would see if it is the hub or the loom connection. If I was to splice the wires etc, I would have to do it when the existing power connector is in place as I have a Mk 3 Facelift and the cables are already in place. Clearly there would be voltage going through it when switched on, but is there when switched off? I guess what I am trying to say is, If got in and didn't switch the ignition on, could I cut of the connector and splice to the existing loom? Would I need to disconnect the battery or is it safe to work on in situ? Then try the the hub to see if the new one is duff or do I go to Ford and buy a new hub as that's more likely the problem? Advice please? Thank you in advance.
  15. Stupid question alert! I have just upgraded to SYNC 3, thank you so much @mastachaz. It was very easy compared to how I had dreaded it! I have one issue remaining, the new USB Hub. I have ordered a replacement hub and adapter loom from Ebay. I have connected the loom to the hub and the connector that goes into the existing power connector is a little big, but fits. There is no power to the hub though.. So in true fault-finding mode, I thought I would see if it is the hub or the loom connection. If I was to splice the wires etc, I would have to do it when the existing power connector is in place as I have a Mk 3 Facelift and the cables are already in place. Clearly there would be voltage going through it when switched on, but is there when switched off? I guess what I am trying to say is, If got in and didn't switch the ignition on, could I cut of the connector and splice to the existing loom? Would I need to disconnect the battery or is it safe to work on in situ? Then try the the hub to see if the new one is duff or do I go to Ford and buy a new hub as that's more likely the problem? Advice please? Thank you in advance.