Chad!

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Chad!

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Chad
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk3 Titanium Turbo (150)
  • Ford Year
    2011
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Staffordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all, So, one of the buttons on my Sony stereo is buggered (Think the previous owner spilt something on it). Radio channel number 9-0 is/was stuck. It's been annoying me for ages. Yesterday, I pressed it hard to see if it would just unstick. Problem is, the button behind appears to be stuck now, which has made every other button cease to function. So. Couple of questions if someone would help me out. 1, If I decide to swap the front panel, is it a simple swap with no re-coding required? I've seen the front panel alone on ebay, so that's one option. 2, I have also considered just swapping out the stereo and fitting a double din unit instead. I have no trouble removing it etc. But is there a facia and wiring loom kit available so that I can easily fit an aftermarket double din? Or is it a more involved job? I had a look at the how to in the guides section, but it's the earlier model than mine. 3, IF I manage to replace the stereo, are the parking sensors a part of it? Or is that a separate unit? Will it still work? Sorry for all the questions, but help will be much appreciated. Cheers, Chad.
  2. The stop start worked for about a week when I bought my car. At first I was concerned it was faulty, in case it stopped and wouldn't start again. But I read about it needing the battery to be tip top for it to work, so just forgot about it then. I'm happy that it doesn't work to be honest. I'd only end up needing to replace the starter motor prematurely no doubt. Like the look of the Focccus program. Might get that and have a play.
  3. Quick update for anyone else that comes across this issue. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump today and it fixed it. Thanks JW1982 for pointing me in the direction of it. One of the things I noticed when it went faulty, apart from it running badly, was the sound from the engine. Usually you can here the pump ticking its head off, but it was a lot quieter once it went faulty. One more thing to note for anyone else with this fault. After it's replaced, it still appears faulty until you clear the fault codes. Once that's done, it ran perfect. Very pleased. Cheers, Chad.
  4. I think, if you have to ask, then it's not for you. If you want one, get one for you. Don't get one because other people may or may not think it's cool. Most people I know really don't think they're cool at all. But, each to their own.
  5. Really? That's interesting. I'll have a look into it. Thank you so much for the reply. VERY much appreciated. Chad.
  6. Ok, so a friend plugged his computer in and came up with the same low pressure issue. So..anyone know where the damn fuel filter is? Is it in the tank? If so, is it accessible without having to drop the tank? Looked under the back seat but it wasn't obvious to see an inspection hatch to get to the sender etc. Any help much appreciated. Chad.
  7. Hi guys, I'm hoping someone has had and fixed this issue. My car is a 1.6 EcoBoost (150bhp petrol) Just coming home from work, everything seemed fine. Gave it a foot full to overtake someone, still fine. 3 miles later, I accelerate away from a corner (not hard acceleration) and it loses power. After that, it just won't boost at all. Seems like it's in limp mode and won't rev above 3k. With it stationary, put my foot to the floor and it won't rev above 3k and kinda missfires. Bit like a dodgy rev limiter. I tried my basic code reader and that won't connect, so tried a bluetooth one and that comes up with only one 'pending' code, which is P0087. Now, I'm not 100% sure about the accuracy of this because it's via a rubbish bluetooth one. But from what I've read, it's fuel pressure related, so it kinda adds up. So the question is. Has anyone else had this problem on a petrol ecoboost and found out what was wrong with it? All of the posts I can find about it on here and everywhere else are for diesel models, or different engines. Can anyone offer up any help please? Thanks, Chad.
  8. Hey guys, Quick question. Do all EcoBoost engines have really loud injectors? Is it normal? Is it due to being direct port injection so needs more force to keep the injector closed when the engine is firing? OR, is there something wrong? I used a big screwdriver like a stethoscope and the engine is silent. All the noise comes from the fuel rail. Or at least appears to. Cheers, Chad.
  9. Not really if I'm honest. I only get the slightest amount of vibration from the engine in mine. And by slight, I mean, you wouldn't notice it unless you were trying to feel it. Definitely nothing I would even consider investigating. Chad.
  10. First thing I'd do is check your wheel nuts. Make sure they're not loose....
  11. Regarding the gear stick moving. If you've got a faulty engine mount, I'd expect the gear stick to move a fair bit backwards when you accelerate and forwards under engine braking.
  12. A vibration like when you're in a diesel car? I get a tiny tiny bit, but nothing that concerns me at all. When you accelerate, do you notice if the gear stick moves much forwards and backwards? You could also see if you can rock your engine at all. I'd remove the big plastic cover and push-pull on it and see if it seems like something's loose.
  13. Oooh ok. I'll have to flirt them an email. Thanks. Chad.
  14. Does anyone know how and how much it is to have a bluefin handset reset and then set up for my car?
  15. This is all very interesting stuff. Thank you. As far as getting the stock 182 program put into mine....that sounds like it could be a pain. Mine is a late 2011 model, so possibly would need the pump fitting too. IF after a remap I had close to 200hp, that would be plenty. I wouldn't want any more than that in this car to be honest unless I was also going to mess with suspension etc. More torque would be nice for that initial overtaking manoeuvre, and then that bhp at higher end would be nice. Being the 150bhp, it's just a little under-powered. So...question is. IF I go down the remap route as is, do I buy a bluefin and try it myself? Sounds easy enough according to the site to buy it from. Do you just buy the bluefin and that's it, you're ready to plug it in and go??