Ennvoqation

Budding Enthusiast
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About Ennvoqation

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Rob
  • Ford Model
    Focus Titanium
  • Ford Year
    2015
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Aberdeenshire
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Modification
    Travel
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts

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  1. Another advantage of automatic wipers is in heavy traffic when you get water splash from other vehicles such as trucks so instead of fumbling with the wiper speed it's all done automatically and you can concentrate on the road. Generally I leave the wipers off unless I'm doing a long journey, but it's also useful when you have variable rain which is common enough up in Scotland :D
  2. Bit of a random question. I've been asked to photograph/video a heavily modified Focus ST when the lock down eases. Whilst I got rough idea of what the guy wants does anyone here have links/ideas to the kind of shots you'd look for if it was your car? I can easily research the media for reference images, but I'm curious to see what you'd look for as a car owner? All he's really told me is make the car look good!
  3. This might help in addition to the above, useful site to pick up on details and compare generations: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/ford/focus-2008/
  4. Mine was straight drop in, 2015 Titanium spec Focus. All I had to do was was tell the car it had DRL lights through Forscan. They still worked without that but wouldn't hit full power until you configured the car. Took all of about 40 min to swap over. Tail lights are easier, they're just a straight swap from halogen to LED. Downside of the DRL headlights they're a lot more expensive to buy new and harder to find second hand, at least in good condition.
  5. Mine didn't come with DRL either so I got set and swapped out the headlights for OEM setI got from one of the guys here, just a matter of using Forscan to tell the system you're using LEDs. I've also looked into getting Mustang style lights because I hate the way the indicators are hidden when the lights are on.
  6. Strip the plastic around the wire, solder it on and then wrap in electrical cloth tape if you have it or use black tape if you don't but be aware it can get messy after a few years. That'll give you the best connection. By stripping part of the wire you can determine if you have the right wire and test the lights work as expected as an added bonus.
  7. Quick tip, try the wires with a 9v battery or something that can provide power. That'll help you determine your power lines and earth. If it's the type of LED light I'm thinking of you'll have: DRL High DRL Low Sequential Indicator. So check each lead to see what it does before installing it. You'll need a multi-meter and test each pin out on the headlamp to get an idea of what wires do what.
  8. Weird as it sounds, check your Alternator. If you've got a dodgy diode that'll screw with the CANBUS and sensors. It's notorious for giving abnormal and confusing results. The best way is to get a wave monitor on it to check the pulses. If there's noise on the CANBUS then the car many not know what's going on and therefor crash out leading to all sorts of faults like no power or fuel going to the engine.
  9. That's a standard load battery, with the Focus engines it's either EFB or AGM in certain specifications. If you have EFB then it's interchangeable with AGM but not vice versa. In the Yuasa range you're looking at 7000 for EFB and 9000 for AGM. Another advantage of AGM is that they tend to last longer with higher cycle ratings the main downside of AGM though is the cost which is about a third more than EFB and that they're slightly bigger than EFBs from what I've seen. Bosch is another recommended battery, which is the standard battery that the AA install from memory.
  10. Random thought, get some glow-in the dark paint and then clear coat it. Should help seeing the buttons in the dark. I did this in a old Land Rover, when the dash board lights conked out.
  11. Not sure if you have a digital or a analogue sensor, but you need to get a waveform reader on it to check the signal. If the signal has a lot of noise you could have a faulty alternator, Then you need to get a reading from the alternator to confirm. Another potential cause is that it's heat related with dodgy wiring. It's a pain to diagnose this one but you need to get readings and/or exact error codes. Could also be the crankshaft sensor being dodgy despite being changed, or if there was an additional fault that killed it.
  12. Follow the leads through the cars firewall see if there's any chaffing or disconnects.My friend had a similar issue, and it was a short near the main fuse box beside the battery. It's a pain in the proverbial to work on, but if you've checked the fuses/head unit then the only option is to see if you're getting data and/or power through the leads. Power is easy with a multi-meter to determine if there's juice or not.
  13. Cruise control for me saves the most fuel, that's on a 180 road trip both with and without, I can get close to 65-70mpg with the car with it enabled, driving on a reasonably quiet dual carriageway, newly serviced and a full set of new tyres. Time of day also makes a difference due to temperature and atmospheric pressures. For me though it's not so much the fuel savings but rather it's saves me mental energy on long distances and allows me to concentrate more on the road ahead than watching the speed I'm doing especially round speed traps. I do wish the car had adaptive installed but I'll settle for what I have.
  14. Took 3 attempts on my old Focus to do the bonnet, first we had a bunch of flies decide to land on the wet paint, then the second attempt didn't dry evenly due to temperature variance (it was spring and we went from -5 to 18c in one day), the final attempt went well enough but the clear coat started peeling near the end when the car was getting scrapped. So it's a fun challenge, and I found you really need a controlled dust free environment to do this if possible and a lot of patience. The actual process itself isn't hard but it's ensuring the job cures properly and without blemishes is the difficult part.. Being able to buff and polish with power tools is also highly recommended.
  15. It might be worth checking all the hoses and connections you can in case you've a loose wire/split hose, if you got an intermittent fault like that then a bump could knock things loose but I suggest getting an OBD reader and use Forscan or a tool that can do similar then that'll give you an inkling what's going on with the fault codes.