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About Ennvoqation

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Titanium
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  • UK/Ireland Location
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    General Automotive
    Car Modification
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  1. You can get an app or program that ties into your OBD II port and run it real time to save diagnostics and engine running parameters to a file. I've done this in the past with my car, and handed all the data over to the garage to help identify the issue. I use a tablet and mount it to the dashboard, to see what's going on which makes my life easier. I've had issues with key not detected in cold weather, but it's never cut out on me when driving. I just work around it by pushing the unlock/lock button on the fob and that seems to reset the detection radius. Ford doesn't have a clue what's wrong, especially since it's intermittent.
  2. Here's the rear cluster, hope it proves of use. Sorry about the dirt, this is after only two days after getting washed!
  3. LED clusters are just drop-in replacements, they use the same loom. when I converted my lights I just swapped the leads over from the halogen to LED and they worked out of the box, I don't have any images at the mo but if I get a chance tomorrow I'll try to take some shots for you but you should be able to figure out the leads from the working LED set.
  4. This is what the LED rear lights look like, if they don't match then it's had work in the past. T
  5. That looks like the LED type cluster (single 'tick mark' line at the bottom), so only one filament will work for the brakes. The LEDs are not user replaceable, so take it back to the garage to fault find or replace the cluster.
  6. That's correct, at least when I changed my bulbs to LED they only acted as brake lights instead of rear lights. The bulbs in a LED cluster is different from the standard halogen cluster as well, which caught me on the hop. Weirdly not all cars have LED rear clusters, I've seen some Titanium 2017 spec cars with Halogen clusters, my own 2015 was halogen until I swapped the clusters out. As to the fault, do you have a multi-meter? If so try to determine if there's power going through the circuit, if there is then you can eliminate the fuse leaving the socket and/or assembly at fault. You can check the fuses, and the socket and, maybe, the leads.
  7. It depends on a lot of factors, in cold weather it rarely come on due to demands on the battery and sub-systems. I can get stop/start working regularly normally but with A/C on when you just start the car won't allow it to kick in but after 10-15 min it works normally, this is due to it stabilising to the temp needed. In warm weather it's more reliable as the battery can hold it's charge and there's less drain. A/C, screen heaters and similar devices are high drain devices, and the A/C will go into a low-power mode when S/S kicks in. I've also seen S/S fail to kick in if you have a high amperage charger for phones/USB-C type connections. This said most of my trips are 10mile + at around 40mph which allows the battery to reach optimal charge fairly easily, so your mileage may vary if you're dotting about the city centre. It'll also might be worth getting a battery check, as S/S is more sensitive to older or low-residual charge batteries. Another option is store the car in warm garage(!), as that allows it to handle the cold weather easier.
  8. I use the Climair deflectors, they use 3M tape for the rear windows which is now near impossible to remove without breaking them! 3M tape isn't too expensive, so it might be worth having some lying around for mods or emergencies. I've seen the stuff hold a broken licence plate together for three months before being replaced!
  9. If you subscribe to the Autobeam newsletter they're always having discount sales one week or another, so its often worth waiting to see what comes up. Usually from memory it's around the 20-25% mark.
  10. There's a added advantage of a reactor, it provides it's own lighting ;)
  11. Driven a Jag I-Pace recent whch was a rather interesting experience. One aspect of driving electric is you have to be more pro-active in how you drive as you need to relearn how to drive to scavenge as much energy back to extend your range. It's also very different from automatic, even if there's some similarities. How you accelerate is more akin to a F1 car, without the gear lag and that can be terrifying if you're not used to it (and fun when you are especially for over-taking). There's no delay when you hit the throttle. The bonus to my friend is he has driven about 6k-7k in the car since he's had it and spent around £50 in charging despite travelling between Aberdeen to Glasgow/Edinburgh. He's got the knack of finding free points to charge up and has solar power at his house. Even if you build a electric charging grid I can't see the average person waiting at a motorway for 40-60 min (or even longer) to charge the vehicle, that's even if there's charge points and they're working. That's the main killer for long distance driving. Even Tesla can't cover the distance I need to travel sometimes (about 400+ miles in a day) and I can't justify the downtime for charging a car, so I drive a diesel and that's not likely to change over the next 5-10 years. The cost of electric vehicles is prohibitive, and all electric cars are treating their customers as guinea pigs. There's several important aspects about batteries to consider: 1) Technologically batteries don't degrade as people think, you'll probably lose at most about 5-10% in five years going by some of the EV channels, and most batteries have a reserve they allocate to compensate. 2) Current battery tech has stalled, we're still stuck on various Lithium tech despite the advances in chemistry and other areas you've still got the power to weight ratio restrictions. Whilst there's a lot of alternative power research in labs, much has still to be proven let alone prove effective to be mass produced. 3) Recycling batteries,They can be re-used for green energy initiatives such as power banks for homes with solar, wind etc. Also the laws will likely catch up to force the manufactures to recycle just as we currently have to recycle e-waste. Most batteries can be broken down to pull the working cells from the bad. The other problem is most batteries are integrated into the vehicle frame, and require specialist equipment to remove or even fix. 4) Charge times, they have to bring this down to parity or have more acceptable charge times. Waiting around in services is a recipe to blackmail people to spend a fortune in motorway areas. 5) Some minerals, such as cobalt, are difficult to source ethically both from a ecological standpoint as well as from a sociological. 6) On board equipment, mostly it doesn't affect the range that much. A/C usually only decreases range about 20 miles on a journey based on my friends i-Pace. Most electric vehicles come with intelligent power management like A/C zone control, low power modes etc. The ICE system will indicate what the power hogs are allowing you to make informed decisions about how power is used. 7) Cold weather is a killer on range, and you have to spend the time to 'prep' the vehicle when it's charging before you cam drive off in the cold mornings to warm the motors/interior to reduce the load. Range loss can be up to 50% in some cases which can be a deal breaker. As for my own view, if you live in a major urban area electric becomes more palatable but if you live in a rural area then for many it's a no go. I suspect a lot of people will end up with dual vehicles one for puttering about and another for long-distance travelling. I had a friend who drove a Twizzy to and from work during the week but if needed to drive beyond it's range or carry loads then he used a second car. It worked out cheaper to run both, but Renault screwed the pooch (as do other companies) by forcing you to buy the car then hire a battery on top of that. I've recently considered Twizzy as a runabout (surprisingly fun to drive, if you can live with the suspension and limitations). Hydrogen is probably a better long term bet, as the technology is fairly robust and reliable but in the UK I think there is about 2 public fuel points. I suspect Hydrogen will be available for those needing range endurance and electric will be mostly relegated to inner city and urban areas especially for those who have access to charge points street side or their garages. After that long spiel, both technologies are dangerous. Hydrogen is highly explosive but Lithium is more dangerous over a longer time period, and can burn at temperatures exceeding 1,000c and near impossible to extinguish with conventional fire fighting kit, and even if you put out the fire it can spontaneously combust a week later (or longer depending on tech). Oh and this:
  12. That happened on my old car, the alternator burnt out requiring it to be replaced and also some of the wiring looms in the bay. Caused a bit of panic for the driver when smoke started coming out from under the bonnet and into the cabin. The engine warning light was on and was being driven to the garage at the time! It might be worth pulling the logs from the car to see what error codes you're getting, and getting someone handy with electrics to test voltages/circuits.
  13. Alan Howatt flagged it on his YouTube channel, apparently it's affecting other manufactures who use the rack.
  14. Also an excuse to get a fancy LED sequential indicator if you wanted ;)