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  • Ford Model
    Focus Titanium
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  1. So probably somewhere in the 2.4Ghz range like Bluetooth/WiFi and microwaves. The latter being notorious for scrambling signals/electronics.
  2. Do you know what's the frequency of the fob for Ford, it'll be interesting to see what caused the issue. Thanks for the follow up.
  3. Why are you replacing the engine? Do you have the DTC codes from the diagnostics? It'll help pin down the fault which could be a simple spark plug/injector fault.
  4. A couple of things. First I'd check for corrosion on earth points. I've recently installed a dash cam, and had to clean some corrosion on connectors behind/beside the fuse box. Both of my key fobs was giving low battery warning up until that point and the dealer didn't have a scoobies what was going on despite replacing the battery. The other thing to look at is there is a glitch with the zone locking system, I think you press door open/lock together for something like 4 seconds that will enable and disable the system.
  5. Depends on how tall you are, I used to crash in the back of my Focus Mk 1 and 2 by dropping the rear seat and using an old roll mat. All I took with me was a camp stove, poncho, sleeping bag and roll mat (apart from the usual stuff such as first aid kit etc). It happened more often than not when I used to cover a lot of mileage. It was OK, and considering the ground conditions probably a touch more comfortable. If you're really tall then it could get uncomfortable.
  6. I'm looking into getting the Dinitrol service done on my Focus just before autumn, the process takes around 5 days to complete as they do the sills, wheel arches, underside, cavities and so on. The process isn't cheap but considering the cost of getting a car repaired for rust (and most of my previous Focus have rusted wheel arches/sills by the 5 -6 year point) I consider it worth a punt. They also do yearly checks and I'll be getting the clear coat applied so it'll make inspection easier. I also believe MoD vehicles get the same coatings to protect them.
  7. You can pick up the Velour mats fairly cheap on Ebay, cost me £25 for the front pair (normally £55). It's from one of the Ford dealer outlets in England, don't have the store name to hand at the mo.
  8. Sorry for necroing a thread to add some info. Was checking the bulbs last night on my, the rear cluster is the OEM Ford LED lights and the two bulbs are different from the standard Mk 3.5 light cluster. They are P27/7W for brakes and PY27/7W for the indicators Reverse bulbs remain the same. Was going to replace the P27/7W bulbs with Osram LED (Red) for my next project especially people don't pay attention to brake lights round here but trying to find PY27 chrome bulbs is challenging.
  9. Interesting, I've noticed when I switch off the AC unit and parked up the Auto/Start kicks in but soon as I switch it on the A/S is disabled. There must be a draw elsewhere? I've done a lot of testing on the Auto/Start trying to figure out how it works and AC is one of the things that definitely cause it to be disabled. If there's no cold air it'll ramp down the fan speed until it kicks in again.
  10. You can pull the service intervals and guides from the ETIS site with the vehicle VIN. https://www.etis.ford.com/ You may need to create an account to see more data about your car.
  11. I had a SD card already, and the OBD reader that was recommended through this site, all I needed to do is download the updates and then copy them across to the card and let the car do it's own thing. You can often find the latest Ford maps on ebay or create your own after jumping through a few hoops. It's a simple enough process just takes 20-40 min to complete.
  12. You can retrofit SatNav fairly easily with Forscan, some Sync 2 updates and a map card. Cost me all of £20 to do. You'll be better off with the phone in most cases, but I do get alerts for cameras, but the Sync nav system is unlikely to get any more updates. There's lots of tutorials on YouTube showing how to add SatNav retrospectively as most Focus cars have the GPS built in. For me Cruise Control is more important as it's harder to retrofit and useful for long distance driving.
  13. If you run high drain equipment such as Air Con it will also disable stop start, especially if you've only just set off on a journey. If you have any devices attached to the 12v system that can also affect it. Attach a Bluetooth OBD reader and connect it to your phone with whatever client you wish to use and monitor battery drain, see what affects your system is the simplest answer to figuring out how Stop/Start works.
  14. I've got recovery, for what I pay for it over the year I do get member discounts for certain goods which offsets the fees. Over the years I've had to call them out to get my car towed after engine lost power, to move the car to a safe place to change the wheel (motorway) , windscreen breaking and replacing a faulty battery. It's also been useful for accidents as you'll end paying a small fortune to get the car recovered. I'm covered for any vehicle, including hire, so that's an added benefit to me. There's no right or wrong answer, but I'd agree if you do a lot of traveling, especially long distance, then it's worth the cost. The cost of a tow for me to get the car back home was over £200 which was around 150-180 miles to a garage of my choice and a lift home. I used to do 30k+ a year in mileage so I've seen some of the weird and wonderful things that can happen on the road.
  15. Chris Fix over on YouTube did a few videos on fixing air con, how applicable they are in the UK I've no idea due to the refrigerants used...