Nathan Buffery

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About Nathan Buffery

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  1. @Monks600 if you have the door card off it might be worth checking your pins 14 and 15 to see if they work. It would not be uncommon for different modules to have different or a newer firmware. If it was me, I would try shorting them to an earth somewhere on the car. Tell me about it, I'm stuck in the North Sea on a ship, and let's just say, the weather hasn't been the best!!!
  2. So does it properly go off now? Not sure if you need to use the ground from the switch, I'm unsure if this is monitored for faults. I have had led faults before so it's possible.
  3. Very strange. Are there any fault codes? I think some of the switches I looked at had an option of half led when off and full when on, but as you say, there should be no voltage getting to it when the car is locked.
  4. Thanks to @Bannko 's guide and help from @Phil21185 and @Tommo17 I now have automated parking. I actually got it working a couple of weeks ago, but wanted to test it fully. I used @Phil21185 guide for the wiring from behind the glove box to the front bumper and @Tommo17 guide for the wires to the switch. I managed to get the bumper loom complete with the sensors and brackets in the right colour for my car and I also installed the fog lights, which I didn't have, at the same time. I also fitted the rear sensors, because I had aftermarket rear sensors on my car. Enabling it in Forscan was relatively easy. I had already retro fitted the sync 2 unit. For me, this forum is brilliant for the tips, tricks and guides which, without, I wouldn't have the confidence to tackle these modifications and upgrades. The fact that comments like, "Take it to the experts mate" is very rarely seen on this forum (unlike others) is great. Thanks again.
  5. Yeah I'm pretty sure the switch works by the switch wire picking up the ground. This is the case with the HRS, the stop start and parking switches. It probably saves running a live out to each switch, as the ground is mostly there already for the illumination.
  6. Yep. You want to connect the ground wire to common and also led neutral. Door lock signal to "NO" and the central locking LED to the LED live. The signal works by making contact with the ground.
  7. Yeah I was talking about that c25 connection. I think you'll need the non latching switch. If it latches it'll make the connection and I think you'll find it'll cycle through locking and unlocking, as it's a one button. The ones I've ordered are custom so it will have a picture of a lock on the button that will light up (via the led terminal) when locked. As I said though, I couldn't find one that has a backlight so it won't show up in the dark. They are coming from China 20-40 days!!!
  8. That's a shame mate. I have posted a question on the forscan forum about the module, but no takers yet. You'll find the facelift switch would have to sit about 10mm below the panel so it sits flush. I've ordered a switch from Ali express, but I was unable to find one with a backlight. I'm looking at mounting it on next to the hazard warning switch if there's room behind. I will also be fitting a Heater Rear Screen button the other side because I have used the facelift centre console (I'll post a guide when I've installed the switches). Did you check if the terminals, for the keyless locking, were free? Or are they being used for something else? @Monks600 did you have any success with this?
  9. I was under the impression that the F150 spreadsheet was what everyone uses for the focus mk3 and 3.5.
  10. I still have a nagging feeling that the terminals on the door module 4, 14, 15 and 17 could be used, but I think something in the door module would have to be changed in Forscan. There is a Power Lock Enable. Address 726-37-02. Maybe I'll ask on the forscan forum.
  11. To be honest I'm surprised there isn't a inline connection, but I can't see one on the diagram. If your lucky the wires will pass around behind your glove box. I wonder if @Tommo17 might have a better idea as i think he said he has a spare wiring harness.
  12. So you will need to try and track down this door handle switch connection and see if the wires are in there and are not in use. It took me ages to find the keyless module connection on the diagram (labelled KVM). There are 5 of them; A,B,C,D & E (page 102). I'm not sure if all of them will be in your car or even which side, but I would imagine they will be behind the boot trim. I remember on my focus, which is an estate, there were lots of connections tapped up on the passenger side. If you can locate connection A, then terminal 3 and 15 would be the wires you are looking for. Personally, I think I'd be tempted to try a facelift module before going down this route.
  13. Yeah I'm not sure where the keyless module would be situated in the car. @JW1982 do you know? Be nice if it was in the passenger footwell!!! It says on the diagram that the wires go from the keyless module to the "Front Door Handle Switch Unlock". I'm not sure if this is the interior or exterior handle. If I have the right connection (think it's C25, but I'm not sure if the diagram is explaining a LHD when talking about the Drivers Door) you would be looking for wires A8 = yellow, A6 = green/Brown, A7 = yellow/violet & A12 = blue green. Presumably, these wires would be unused or in a tapped up connection.
  14. No I was talking about the connection that goes from the door to the car. I think it's c25 as below. As you can see the top half is connection A and the bottom is B.
  15. I'm slowly working my way through it, as it's not so easy looking at the PDF on my phone!!! I'm trying to concentrate on connector C25 which I think is the Drivers Door (RHD) and identify each terminal. One possible set of wires is the keyless locking system that I think use 6,7,8 and 12 on the "A" connection. However, I'm starting to have doubts if the car is not fitted with keyless locking, they might use these terminals for some other function.