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Nathan Buffery

True Ford Enthusiast
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About Nathan Buffery

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  1. I have the same heater controls and spent hours and hours trying to get the FL control panel to work......without success. As already mentioned, it depends on if your BCM can take the updated firmware. Mine could not, but even if it could, you have to unpin the big connection, study the wiring diagrams, and re-pin the 2 connections. I did all this, but had lots of DTC's that wouldn't clear (hence the need to update the BCM). In the end I gave up as the next stage would of been ripping out the whole dash and changing the climate unit. Here's what ended up doing as a compromise.
  2. If you unclip this module, you'll find that the circuit board inside has the switches for the heated seat. I guess it's just as cheap for ford to make one circuit for all the climate control modules. Which means, if your module goes t*ts up, you could swap the circuit board.
  3. Oh no!! So do you think you connected the full 12v to the signal wire (terminal 5 on the PFL switch)?
  4. Yeah I'm pretty sure the seat module deals with different switch positions.
  5. Just another thought......I think you can control heated seat through your sync module. I was wondering if you need to enable this with Forscan within the climate module. You may be able to either switch it off and on in forscan or see the switch positions.
  6. Surely it's easier to check if you have a live at fuses 34 + 35 in the boot, when you put your ignition on. This would tell you if your relay was working or not. I think I'd be inclined to do this before laying upside down in the passenger seat trying to locate pins on the BCM!!! I assume you had the heated seats working before you fitted the FL climate module?
  7. I'm not sure about the facelift module, but I know the feed is a signal live only. So it comes out of the BCM and gets split to feed various things (the humidity sensor is one of them). The switches are variable resistors with 5 settings. 0=0, 1=7.71k, 2=6.39k, 3=5.17k, 4=3.87k and 5=2.61k. I'm not 100% sure what this does to the voltage, but this signal then goes to the seat module. The heated seats have a another live that is fed from the boot fuse box 34 & 35 and I'm pretty sure this is the actual power for the heated pads. So.....you could test the ohms from your module pins to s
  8. Did you splice into the Blue and White wire on the humidity sensor?
  9. Ah sorry, I must read slower!!! Yes the wire that goes to the temp/humidity sensor is on the same circuit as the feed that goes to pin 4 on the switch.
  10. According to the pre facelift wiring diagram, pin 1 on the switch is part of the switch illumination. It's the yellow wire from pin 4 on the switch that is the heated seats feed. This goes back to the BCM pin 17 on connection 8. I only know this because I had to run wires to my switch. I would imagine there is enough power on the illumination circuit to power the camera, but not the seats.
  11. I'm not sure you should be getting any voltage from pins 5 on the old switches as they carry the voltage/signal to your seat module. You should, however be getting voltage from the wires you took out of pins 4 on the old switches as this is the feed. I'm pretty sure this should be 12 volts. I know it sound stupid, but you didn't have your multi meter set on 1000 volts, when you re-measured pins 22 and 23. I only ask because I've made this mistake myself!
  12. I'm not sure how my engine was treated in the past as it was a police car in a previous life! I wouldn't fit a used clutch but was tempted with the injectors. My thinking was, even if they were crap, I'd have a spare set that I could get serviced. With the turbo, is this something that can be serviced by yourself or is it a specialist job? And what are the signs of going bad?
  13. No takers hey? Are the pubs open again???!!!!
  14. Seems like a good price. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265138310028?hash=item3dbb798b8c%3Ag%3A6mUAAOSwLL1ghrQ6&LH_ItemCondition=4
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