Tizer

Budding Enthusiast
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About Tizer

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    John
  • Ford Model
    Focus mk4 1.5
  • Ford Year
    2019
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Midlothian

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  1. If you have reset the Window Bounce-Back and it still is not working correctly then it would be best to get it fixed under warranty. If it is a misalignment problem then the Door Card will probably need to be removed to access the mechanism.
  2. That is a unfortunate, It must be only the newer cars then. The online one for mine has some updated information and the things that do not apply to my model/engine type have been cut from it.
  3. You can access VIN specific Owners Manuals via the Ford UK Website, but I'm not sure how far back in time Ford have gone.
  4. Same here. If it was only on one Headlight or happened every time it rained then I would be worried, but it is very infrequent and never happened when we had the recent spell of persistent and heavy rain so it seems to be a characteristic that only happens when the environmental conditions are right.
  5. I have only noticed this a few times and it was very light and just in a small area near the outside. I have standard Headlights, not LED.
  6. No my car does not have the Radar Sensor behind the Grill, just the Windscreen one. Mine was a May Build date, just after a lot of other changes were made. I do have Front Parking Sensors, Blind Spot Information System, Cross Traffic Alert etc and I do get warnings from them if I get too near objects such as Street Furniture, Walls etc, but it is a completely different warning and not so frightening when it does go off.
  7. @Mick87 Even though you don't have the Radar if you have the FordPass App and you don't clear all the frost off your windscreen the App may send you a message to clear the Radar behind the Grill although the message that you get in the car will be correct and tell you to clear your windscreen. This is an App problem, and may have been fixed now. I don't have Adaptive Cruise Control and mine has only gone off 3 times in the last 7 months. Twice when pedestrians ran across the road in front of me in town and once when someone cut me up where two Motorways merged. I have mine on normal sensitivity and have not found it too sensitive, maybe it is if you have the Radar behind the Grill. The times that it has gone off have been for legitimate reasons although I had spotted the danger myself. If I had not been concentrating I shudder to think what the consequences would have been.
  8. Maybe just coincidence. If an Engine fault does not reoccur again after a set number of drive cycles then the fault light usually disappears.
  9. If you have the FordPass App on your phone open it up and have a look at your messages. It should tell you there.
  10. Most of the codes, especially the "U" ones could have been set when the car was being fixed. If you have an active Ford Pass App open it up and have a look at the messages. If it is the same as the MK4 Focus it will show the date and time that the codes were generated.
  11. I read a test years ago where two bits of sheet steel, one clean and one with surface rust were marked into sections and painted with different surface treatments, then left outside in an exposed location for almost a year. The one that performed the best was David's Zinc 182 primer. This was even better than Hammerite. I have used it myself since then on a number of old cars and around the house and have not had any complaints. It is sold as a primer that should be overcoated but In situations like yours I haven't bothered to overcoat it without any problems. Obviously if it is rusting from the other side of the panel or very badly pitted then nothing will stop the rust coming back.
  12. I don't know about the 1.0 engine, but I was doing some live monitoring (trying to catch a GPF Regeneration to satisfy my curiosity) on my 1.5, the new 3 Cylinder one, and the Raw Exhaust Temperature peaked at just over 600c, the Catalyst Temperature around 750c. This was on 10 mile Motorway run with a steady Throttle at 70-75 MPH. I'm sure they would have been a lot higher if it if it had been a more spirited drive. There may be other parameters that you can monitor with FORScan relating to the Turbo, but I have not explored them yet.
  13. I would be interested to know if the Stop/Start worked when you came to a halt, or if it was disabled because of the excess heat. It is a bit frightening if it did work as per KING KUGA's post above. My first car was a very old Hillman Hunter whose engine was only about 50 odd BHP and the Exhaust Manifold sometimes glowed red hot on that after a hard Motorway run.
  14. Try the Ford website https://www.ford.co.uk/owner/my-vehicle/download-your-manual
  15. I have been doing some live monitoring with FORScan just to satisfy my curiosity and it is surprising just how often Cylinder Deactivation is activated, even at 70 MPH in 6th gear on a manual car and sometimes even when going up a long incline on a light throttle. As @iantt indicated as soon as you squeeze the throttle even slightly it switches back to 3 cylinders but activates again if you ease back on the throttle. It may work differently on a Automatic car and I never use Eco Mode so I don't know if it behaves differently in that mode, but it does work in Sport Mode. I have never tried it with Cruise Control on either, but I would guess that it would not activate very often unless you were on a very flat road.