Another Richard

Budding Enthusiast
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About Another Richard

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  • First Name
    Richard
  • Ford Model
    2014 Focus Titanium 2.0 Tdci
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Pembrokeshire

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  1. That's the price off the page. Not aware of any discounts or codes running at the moment, and I haven't done an extensive search. Just wanted an indication. What's the best thing to clean with - cotton bud and meths?
  2. Unfortunately, the Haynes manual for my model is the US spec and doesn't cover the diesels, so I didn't bother getting it. I've changed fuel filters on other cars before, so I'm not a novice, but reading from somewhere in this forum that it was better left to a dealer made me think twice. If I knew where it was I would give it a go, or at least assess whether it was within my abilities. The air filter is a Mann C16 134/1, and looks almost brand new. Worth replacing with a genuine Ford article? (I've done a lot with Land Rovers, and there are instances there where paying the extra for a genuine part is well worth the extra money.) The MAF is the little device in the elbow just downstream of the air filter box? Impossible to see its condition without removing, but the pipework around is clean and dry. There's no jubilee clip - it seems to unscrew from the side of the AF box, and the stub is just a push fit into the intake pipe. I'll have a look at prices - if it's not too much I might replace it just to eliminate. [Edit: ECP are selling them at nearly £100. May try that later.] Thanks again, appreciate the help.
  3. Sam, thanks for this. I haven't done anything more than check the oil since I have had it, so I *assume* it has a standard air filter, but I will check. And the selling dealer changed the fuel filter (or said he did, anyway) so I had no input there either. I'm happy to check most things, but I have read on here that the fuel filter is a job best left to a garage, and I can't seem to find any kind of workshop manual. Same with the MAF sensor - I'd be working in the dark a bit. I am happier with older engines! Will have a look at all of those. Many thanks. Car starts instantly every time, so I doubt an air leak.
  4. Focus Titanium 2.0 Tdci, 2014, 105k miles Bought this car back in February this year. I hadn't had it a week when the car went into limp mode and I got the above message on the dash. No other warning lights. I had been experimenting with the cruise control on an A-road at 50-60 mph, and the fault occurred when the car was gently accelerating under the CC in either 5th or 6th gear. Pulled into a layby, stopped the engine, restarted and all was well. No warnings, driving as normal. I took it back to the dealer who found no fault codes, but replaced the fuel filter as a precaution. Then we had lockdown, and the car has had little use, perhaps only twice a week. It has all been local journeys, fairly short distances, lowish speeds, and the car has been faultless. Last Friday I did a journey of 400 miles, mainly A-roads, and the fault returned several times. It first happened when I had been going about 50 miles, driving briskly but not caning it, and then recurred probably 10-12 times over the rest of the journey. Stopping and starting again cured it in most cases, although sometimes I had to leave it 5 minutes before it would start again without limp mode/engine fault light. The warning lights were a bit random - most times it lit the Stability Control warning (yellow car symbol with skiddy tracks) but not always. A few times the engine light (yellow outline of engine) came on. Sometimes the lights stayed on, sometimes they went off of their own accord. Sometimes they came back on again, without the malfunction message. The engine light was on when I got home and was still there the next morning, but disappeared after I filled the car with diesel (5 minute stop). Common factors seem to be a) engine is thoroughly warm, and b) light acceleration in high gear or heavy acceleration in lower gear. I know the first thing is to read any fault codes, but I have no way of reading them at the moment. (Suggestions for OBD reader welcome.) Until then, any ideas? It sort of looks like it might be related to fuel starvation, but it was warm weather (no waxing) and a recent fuel filter. Also, I was using supreme diesel on the long journey. Another thing which might be related is that fuel consumption is not as good as I expected. I'm getting around 36 mpg (UK) local driving and 47 on the long journey, both measured brim to brim, not the mpg display. My old 2006 Mondeo (2.0 Tdci also, and bigger, heavier car) would have given me 42 and 50+ in the same circumstances. Honest John Real MPG suggests an average of 46 mpg for the engine, so it's well below that. It also feels no more powerful than the Mondeo, despite being smaller and lighter, and having 10 bhp more. Am I being realistic? Car starts and runs fine otherwise, and I am delighted with it. If I can just solve this issue, it will be my perfect motor. Sorry for the long post, but I'd prefer that to drip-feeding information. Any help or suggestions very welcome. Thanks all.
  5. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I am in the same position as the OP two years ago. The Mk 3 Haynes manual specifically does not cover the 2.0 Duratorq diesel. Does anyone know of an alternative, ideally downloadable and cheap/free?
  6. That would explain any difference. I tried what you suggested. The left hand steering wheel control only controls the little information panel in the dash, not the audio system. The right hand control does control the audio ... but only in a limited way. Up and down change the volume, left and right change tracks *within* the selected album, and that's it. Hopefully someone with a SYNC system will be able to advise me. Many thanks for your input, anyway.
  7. I have been using the controls on the head unit, not the wheel. Thanks, I will try this. (Only had the car a few days ...) I've found a way to do it, which is back a few steps, down a few steps and find 'Browse USB', which takes me back to the 'artist' level. It's a fiddly way to do it, and I am sure there is a better way. I just need to keep looking. Hitting the left arrow while a track is playing takes me not to the album and then artist, but to a menu of SYNC applications, phone, BT, defaults and so on, and if I keep hitting random arrows I get to 'Browse USB'. It's far from satisfactory, but I accept the problem is probably my ignorance. The handbook is no help at all :) Thanks for the info - will keep trying.
  8. Keeping the aircon running means the seals don't dry out and leak. I had a Mondeo for 10 years from nearly-new and left the a/c on full-time. It never needed any attention, was never re-gassed, and was blowing ice-cold on the day I sold it. As others have said, it not only cools the air but dries it, which keeps the cabin pleasant in any weather and keeps the windows mist-free. I did switch it off occasionally to see if there was any effect on fuel consumption. If there was, it wasn't enough for the onboard mpg readout to notice. I thought it was significant that Ford gave you a button marked 'AC Off', which sort of implies that AC On is the default condition.
  9. 2014 Focus Titanium with Sony head unit. Old school here, to me a car radio is a radio in a car. I'm a bit of a novice with newer technology. I'm probably missing something obvious, but any help would be welcome. I've just bought the above car and put a USB stick with all my music on it in the USB socket. It works. I can get to play individual tracks by using the cursor arrows and OK button to go artist>album>track, but I can't find a way to reverse this, so I can go track>album>artist and scroll down to the next one. I can do this easily on my separate MP3 player, which has a 'back' arrow button. Hitting the UP cursor takes me to the previous track, and hitting the left one takes me back to the USB menu and I am back where I am started. I'm looking for a 'back' button, but have tried everything and can't find one. I know this is probably a simple issue and caused by ignorance, but if anyone could suggest anything it would help my blood pressure. One a positive note, I managed to pair the unit with my Android phone first try. Go me. Cheers!
  10. I usually upgrade to Osram Nightbreakers. Noticeably better light, and no need to upgrade wiring etc. as they draw the same current as standard. The downside is reckoned to be shorter bulb life, but I haven't had one fail on me yet. I've only had the Fiesta since the summer and haven't felt the need to change yet, but with the darker mornings I am thinking of getting some. Incidentally, if bulbs are marked 'off-road use only', it is likely that they are much higher wattage than standard, typically 90-100W and beyond, compared with the standard 60W. This will risk overheating the wiring, switches etc, and to use them safely you would probably want to look at beefing up the wiring and fitting relays if you didn't want things melting and/or burning out. Some people fit them and get away with it, but it's a risk. The Nightbreakers (and the Philips +150% and so on) work by using the same current as standard but burning the filament hotter (= more light, shorter life).
  11. Many manufacturers seem to quote 1 ltr per 1000 miles as 'reasonable', which I think is ridiculously high. For comparison, I had a diesel Mondeo which I bought at 13K miles and sold at 75K+, and during that time I don't think the oil level on the dipstick dropped by even a mm between changes. In fact, I can't remember any car I have owned in the last 20 years which has used oil to any significant degree.
  12. To put it simply, good tyres on the back and poor ones on the front will mean a car tends to understeer (try to go straight on when you turn the wheel). Good tyres on the front and poor on the back will lead to oversteer, where you turn a corner and the back of the car starts to swing out. For 99% of drivers, it is much easier to cope with understeer (ease off and turn the wheel more) than oversteer. All modern mass-market cars are designed to understeer slightly for safety reasons. For normal driving, I doubt if the placing of the good and bad tyres makes a lot of difference (I have done both and I am still accident-free), but on a wet road, in an emergency, you might just be glad that you followed the best advice. The Continental tyres have had great reviews in recent magazine tests. As we are entering the cold, rainy season, have you considered winter or all-season tyres? You have a mix of tyres on the rear axle, which is not recommended. Mine (owned three months) has a horrible mis-match of good and bad, new and old, so I will soon be fitting a full set of All-Season Contacts. I'm a bit obsessive about my tyres, and I don't like mixing makes and types on a single axle, and prefer the same tyre all round if I can manage it.
  13. I had the l/h headlight unit out to investigate a poor beam pattern (bulb was visibly drooping in the mounting as seen from outside). I found that the little spring clip that holds the bulb into the circular mount was missing, and the bulb had been held in position by bits of cardboard and sticky tape, which had started to fall apart. I have fabricated a new clip out of galv wire which seems to be working OK for the time being, but I would like to have the correct clip if possible. Can these be bought separately, or are they part of the light unit, meaning I would have to get a whole new unit? (In that case, I probably wouldn't as my solution seems to be 'good enough'.) Just wondering.
  14. Just done this myself. I went the cheap route and got this item: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270675901962 for £4.99. It works fine. The only thing is I have to crank the volume up further than normal on the head unit compared with playing a CD/radio. One small point: people above talk about the socket for the lead being on the bottom right hand corner of the radio as you look at it. It's the bottom right corner of the plastic block of connectors, where the power and speaker cables are. If it had been the bottom right of the unit, it would be an easy job with good access through the glove compartment. But the connector block is on the other side and the head unit has to come out. I wasted an hour or two trying to reach it from both sides - not possible with normal hands IMO.