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About Westville

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Ford Model
    Edge Vignale White Platinum Pearl
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Tyne & Wear
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration

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  1. Loads on FB marketplace https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/103119296394478/search/?query=235%2F40%2F18 winter&vertical=C2C&sort=BEST_MATCH Use Shiply to get shippers bidding to deliver them - had a set Aberdeen to Gateshead for £36
  2. I understand Santa is bringing me a Heko set - will update if/when fitted
  3. RESULT - make a nice change to hear that someone has found a garage that knows what they are doing and did a good job
  4. Condensation needs damp air and a lack of ventilation - so you need to identify where it is coming from: 1. Is it residue from wet feet etc? that is not drying out in normal use - use your demister more or crack a window open when driving to force out the damp air 2. Is there a leak somewhere? - feel around UNDER the carpets - do they feel damp or is there any evidence of water pooling or excessive rusting in the lower parts of the floor pan? 3. Examine windscreen, window and door seals very carefully to see if any have failed - you should be able to see tracking marks if water is regularly getting in somewhere, it can often discolour interior trim 4. Check around grommets and cable seals where they pass through from outside - especially in the bulkhead, boot and floor areas 5. Have a good old smell - damp causes mildew which will give off an odour So basically you will have to do some crawling around investigation to track down the source - if and when you find a suspect keep looking - there may be more than one on an old car - good luck with that Finally, when the cause is found - do something about it - it will only get worse
  5. Go into onscreen 'settings' and look for a menu item with 'software' mentioned which should take you to a screen with details of the software your car has and what versions they are
  6. Are you using the Ford UK site and no spaces between the letters and numbers? https://www.ford.co.uk/owner/resources-and-support/sync-bluetooth/update#/
  7. Join MACT facebook group - plenty of posts on there about this https://www.facebook.com/groups/MACTFORDEDGE/?ref=group_header
  8. Go to the Ford motorcraft site and follow the menus to owner information -0 you should get a list of asbuilt info for your car - you will need your VIN to access it https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/SetCountry?returnUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.motorcraftservice.com%3A1402%2FQuickGuides%2Fpubs_police
  9. This may help https://www.drivingtesttips.biz/dashboard-warning-lights/ford-dashboard-warning-lights/ford-mondeo/change-oil-soon-service-reset.html
  10. Update: Fine sanding underway with 1000 grit paper - tried a quick test polish on one section today - well pleased with results using Mothers Mag/Aluminium polish
  11. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/904756/Ford-Tourneo-Courier.html?page=158#manual
  12. There are dozens of posts with similar experience to yours Best to use a newly formatted USB stick and follow Ford's download instructions - WiFi does not seem to work in the UK for updates to Sync
  13. WD40? Sticky Stuff remover from Lakeland? Thinners?
  14. Had one of those in slate grey in 1985 - great cars - fast and comfortable Looking at your pics though it is going to be a massive restoration to bring back the body and interior - unfortunately covering a car outside just holds in the damp which condenses and gets absolutely everywhere. Looking at the extent of the rot on the bonnet leading edge and the trailing edge of the front offside wing I'd hazard a guess that the cills, chassis and floor pans have been affected also. As others have said if you could at least say it is not seized you would be best selling it as is for "spares or repair" I'm sure there will be a demand for parts off a motor like that Good Luck
  15. Update: Finished stripping the wheels of lacquer and sanding down the metal worm Just need a couple more dry days to do the final 600 grade rub down and re-polish, then apply 2K lacquer to finish Here's a few pics of work in progress Before: Rot spots taken out with flappy wheel on Dremel (lacquer still to strip): 1st sanding without lacquer 320 grade: