ifloochies

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ifloochies

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Isaac
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta
  • Ford Year
    2011
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  1. Nope, no smell of coolant in the exhaust, and no mayo under the oil filler cap in the coolant bottle. What happens is it would start to boil over even with the fan running and temperature sitting at 105 degrees C, open the bleed plug at the top of the radiator and a whole lot of gas/steam pours out for a few seconds before actual coolant starts coming out of it. The moment coolant starts to come out of this orifice, cap it off and the temperature starts to drop and the fan soon stops, meaning this gas was inhibiting coolant flow. It would run for about 2 to 3 minutes at which time it would happen again. So have changed just about every part of the cooling system but still have this problem. So what now, change the cylinder head or replacement engine on the cards?
  2. So starting to look like the engine might be toast. Started to overheat again even with the thermostat removed. The entire surface of the radiator gets hot in time, but I constantly have gas/steam purging from the bleed port at the top of the radiator. Have tried bleeding the system multiple times by filling it from the top radiator hose as well as tried vacuum filling it with a vacuum pump, but still made no difference at all. Starting to think I may have a crack somewhere in the head that's pressurizing the coolant or causing it to boil off inside the engine.
  3. Update: Changed the water pump and no joy yet😕 Still looks like somehow coolant is not moving around; sitting in the block until its brought to a boil.....at this stage, I got nothing else.
  4. As said before, initially assumed it would be a blockage in the radiator, but when I had that off, I could hose it right through. Strange thing is, from startup, coolant flow seems to be normal, and as it warms up flow would gradually drop off in both the main circuit as well as the bypass. Keeping the revs up above 2.5K seems to keep everything working as it should, and the moment I let off, in the time it takes me to get from the driver's seat to the front of the car, the coolant level would start to rise in the expansion tank. Even though a test for combustion gases in the coolant came out negative and the engine ticks over smooth and quiet, I'm starting to wonder if I may be having problems with the cylinder head or something - no bubbles to be seen in the expansion tank though, just looks like coolant is not getting pushed around to effect heat exchange.
  5. Update: Pulled off the water pump and there doesn't appear to be physically wrong with it. The impeller is plastic and doesn't appear to have any erosion damage. Still ordering a replacement, because at this stage I figure I have nothing else to lose. Pouring water down the top hose, it pours out through the side of the block uncovered by the water pump, which rules out any blockages in the block/head. Hope changing the pump solves it, otherwise I've got nothing else to do to it.
  6. Revisiting the water pumps, is it possible the impeller could be coming loose off the shaft when it/coolant temperature rises. Strange thing is, with the thermostat removed, I have observed that coolant coming out of the bleed port at the top of the radiator drops from an intense jet to a steady stream as the engine warms up. Just want to rule out everything before having to go remove the pump and tamper with timing. Aside the usual mode of pumps leaking, I haven't as yet read anything of such sort ever been experienced by anyone. I guess there's a first time to everything, just want to be sure its not anything else first.
  7. Strange thing is, from the very beginning, one day the car was running just right, and the very next it just started spilling out its coolant all over the place. Talking about thermostats, when all this first started, I took out the original one and did the boiling water and thermometer test, and it was still functional - opening at 89 degrees Celsius. Subsequently bought two other replacement thermostats, one in a motorcraft box, and the other a FoMoCo item, but still had the problem when those were installed. Did a sniff test and it came up negative for combustion gases in the coolant. Everything seems to be alright with it regardless of engine load, until it reaches 98 degrees Celsius + , then coolant rapidly starts to expand in the reservoir and temperature stays high at 105 degrees Celsius despite the fan kicking in and staying on, even after the engine has been shut down. I have to say, this has to be the worst head-scratcher in all my years of car ownership. I have so far read some other owners report such issues on other forums online, some dragging on over multiple pages, but strangely enough not a single one reported back on how they had resolved it if they did indeed. So what next, what can I check? By design, are there supposed to be any restrictors in the bypass circuit that my have dislodged themselves, because really starting to run out of ideas on this one.
  8. Update. With the thermostat removed, everything seems to working as it should - it would get up to temperature, fan would kick in and temperature comes down. Just takes forever to warm up. I gotta ask, what's the correct bleeding procedure for these vehicles anyway? So far I've been bleeding it from the little nipple at the top of the radiator.
  9. Did anyone ever find a solution to these issues, and what was it?
  10. Swapped the coolant reservoir from my working 2012 fiesta and still no joy. The coolant level in the tank would rise as the temperature went up and start to overflow until revving the engine hard, at which time the coolant level would quickly drop to normal. From first start up, I pulled off one of the hoses feeding the cabin heater, and the coolant flow was quite substantial, which tells me the pump is pushing out coolant. Really don't know what to check next.
  11. If I'm to consider the water pump, are these the kind with a plastic impeller that falls off with age? The caps, I bought off Amazon. I have any coolant reservoir from a working vehicle I can swap out with. Whiles I take time out to work on it again, is there anything else I ought to look out for?
  12. Alas, still no joy. Had the radiator cleaned out - able to blow through it end to end with ease now. Installed it and still have the coolant boiling in the expansion tank. For some reason it looks like the coolant is bypassing the radiator, because the bottom hose barely gets warm. An observation I made is, keeping the revs at 2500, the temperature would slowly creep up as normal, reach the temperature at which the fan kicks in at 105 degrees C, cool back down to 99 degrees C where the fan goes off as normal. By doing this, the bottom hose does get just as hot as the top hose, as well as the entire surface of the radiator. Properly stumped now.
  13. Certainly not the water pump. The time I had the alternator off to replace the thermostat, I had water push out of the thermostat opening just by spinning the water pump pulley briskly by hand. Incidentally I took the radiator off today and tried blowing through the inlet, and even though I could blow through the other end/outlet, it did require some effort. Dont know what could be restricting flow through it if any at all, I'll have it cleaned out, reinstall and report back.
  14. No, on the contrary the hose doesn't get hard at all, just very hot to the touch. Opening the bleed point at the top of the radiator releases scalding hot coolant, whiles the core of the radiator remains relatively cool to the touch.