EdGasket

Budding Enthusiast
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    48
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About EdGasket

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Andrew Ball
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 6 1.6 Duratec
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

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  1. If it was easy to fix; they'd have done it. I wouldn't consider buying it unless you go there and thoroughly inspect it first.
  2. The lower suspension arm balljoint rubbers are splitting but the balljoints themselves are fine. I was thinking of replacing just the rubber covers. I can't find specific one, only generic. Does anyone know what size I need? I believe the top hole is 18mm and the height is not much, maybe 15mm but no idea what lower hole size is? (It's about 45mm external) I could take it apart and find out but I'd rather have the boots and just get on and finish the job rather than have to have a week's break while I order some.
  3. You are not obliged to use the original routing of the pipe which suits factory assembly before the car is finished. So if you look carefully for an easier route and make sure your new pipe is supported and safe; you can route it around so as not to have to remove fuel tanks, transmissions, trim or whatever to fit it. You can cut off the ends of the old pipe and leave it where it is. You can even tie-wrap the new pipe to the old pipe for some or all of its run if you want. If the rust is not too bad, you can just sand it off the pipe and coat the pipe with something to protect it from further rust. The steel brake pipe walls are very thick.
  4. But make sure you completely flush out all red coolant otherwise it will turn to gel with head sealers.
  5. If you are going to have to take a plug out to see if it has been changed, you might as well have changed them yourself in the first place.
  6. It wasn't with an old belt. It was difficult to get a new belt on. There are some special tools that help to stretch the belt over: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stretch-Fit-Belt-Remover-and-Installer-Set-Removal-Installation-Tool-Garage-New/352777277304?epid=23023287386&hash=item52232a0f78:g:aWAAAOSwvxldb28v
  7. Just found this by another poster: " The detent bolt must not be used for draining, as there is a sprung ball behind the hex-boss bolt, and gear alignment may be lost. ". Did you have any problem velaskez?
  8. Some people say to remove it to drain the oil, is that so? Do you have to first select any gear or neutral?
  9. No, the thermal (coolant / temperature) sensor is screwed into the end of the cylinder head. What you refer to is just a resistor coil with a thermal fuse that lowers the fan speed. There are a number of reasons why the fan might have blown, e.g. someone probing around and shorting something, the motor not starting to turn and drawing too much current, a chafed wire shorting to ground. You will have to replace it and see if the fuse blows again or lasts.
  10. The air-con should activate the fan in low speed mode which is the second relay from the edge. The thermal sensor and ecu also activate the low speed relay and if necessary, the high speed fan relay which is the one right next to the edge of the relay/fuse box. To check it is all working just let the engine idle up to temp and see if the fan works. Make sure your heater is switched off so the engine can heat up. As to the fuse blowing, did it just stop working or is this a new car to you and it wasn't working when you got it?
  11. There is no belt tensioner; they are stretch-on belts. But if you take out the alternator bolts and swing the alternator back, an older belt will come off ok.
  12. There's a video on YouTube. I've done my 1.6. You have to remove the alternator and I found some of the 4 bolts easier to get at from underneath. It's a PITA job for something that should be simple plus I was petrified the tiny bolts might snap off leaving me with a huge problem. When you refit, use some high temp rtv sealant around the edges to prevent future leaks; don't just rely on the gasket/o-rings.
  13. So fan is not running at full belt all the time. Saves fan wearing out and saves energy. It also comes on at slow speed initially when engine is not too hot.
  14. Fuse 12 in the passenger compartment (15 amps) according to Haynes but this also feeds the fuel injectors so if it had blown, you wouldn't be going very far. Try fuse FD in th eengine compartment fuse box (40 amp). I can't tell you any more than that from Haynes but there aren't that many fuses in there so check each until you find it. Hope this helps?
  15. Its normally the other way round; the lambda sensor sends the ecu a signal but maybe you mean the heater current? Get a decent auto-electrician to test the lambda socket before you start paying for ecu fixes which are expensive. No its not common at all.