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About EdGasket

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    Settling In Well

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  • First Name
    Andrew Ball
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 6 1.6 Duratec
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. No, the thermal (coolant / temperature) sensor is screwed into the end of the cylinder head. What you refer to is just a resistor coil with a thermal fuse that lowers the fan speed. There are a number of reasons why the fan might have blown, e.g. someone probing around and shorting something, the motor not starting to turn and drawing too much current, a chafed wire shorting to ground. You will have to replace it and see if the fuse blows again or lasts.
  2. The air-con should activate the fan in low speed mode which is the second relay from the edge. The thermal sensor and ecu also activate the low speed relay and if necessary, the high speed fan relay which is the one right next to the edge of the relay/fuse box. To check it is all working just let the engine idle up to temp and see if the fan works. Make sure your heater is switched off so the engine can heat up. As to the fuse blowing, did it just stop working or is this a new car to you and it wasn't working when you got it?
  3. There is no belt tensioner; they are stretch-on belts. But if you take out the alternator bolts and swing the alternator back, an older belt will come off ok.
  4. There's a video on YouTube. I've done my 1.6. You have to remove the alternator and I found some of the 4 bolts easier to get at from underneath. It's a PITA job for something that should be simple plus I was petrified the tiny bolts might snap off leaving me with a huge problem. When you refit, use some high temp rtv sealant around the edges to prevent future leaks; don't just rely on the gasket/o-rings.
  5. So fan is not running at full belt all the time. Saves fan wearing out and saves energy. It also comes on at slow speed initially when engine is not too hot.
  6. Fuse 12 in the passenger compartment (15 amps) according to Haynes but this also feeds the fuel injectors so if it had blown, you wouldn't be going very far. Try fuse FD in th eengine compartment fuse box (40 amp). I can't tell you any more than that from Haynes but there aren't that many fuses in there so check each until you find it. Hope this helps?
  7. Its normally the other way round; the lambda sensor sends the ecu a signal but maybe you mean the heater current? Get a decent auto-electrician to test the lambda socket before you start paying for ecu fixes which are expensive. No its not common at all.
  8. just drill the hole very small and somewhere where the MoT man won't notice. I've had to do this in the past on a Rover.
  9. I suggest you use some high temp. rtv silicon sealant around the gasket corners to prevent leaks. Its cheaper than buying another gasket and it will work.
  10. £9 job done: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mechanical-Thermostat-Capillary-Tube-Manual-Featuring-0-120-C-Heating-Cooling/193062501269?hash=item2cf36bfb95:g:8bcAAOSwvtxdXylP Don't scrap it or waste £200 getting ecu checked as they won't fix this problem.
  11. See my thread ref this problem: Someone else solved it by fitting an external temp gauge with a dial so it would turn the fans on at the selected temp.
  12. Fiesta Mk 6 2007 Auto. My daughter says her car started this morning then immediately died. Then the engine wouldn't turn over and the dash showed blank where it usually shows mileage. After waiting a little it started and ran fine. Anyone know what this might be; it's an automatic so I was wondering about the brake and gearbox switches? Unfortunately I don't have access to the car so can only relay information to her. Does a key/immobiliser problem stop it cranking or only prevent it firing up?
  13. You need to check your fan is running before the coolant starts boiling. See my thread ref. temp sensor resistance: If the radiator gets nice and hot then chances are the water pump is OK. I found the ECU was expecting a lower resistance from the temp sensor than even a new one was putting out so the fans were never coming on and coolant boiling in the cylinder head.
  14. P0031 is the heater control for the lambda sensor. Maybe the wiring was damaged or the connector dislodged when they did the clutch? Also give the throttle body a clean.