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About EdGasket

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  • First Name
    Andrew Ball
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 6 1.6 Duratec
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. Is it possible to access all head bolts by just removing the top cover or do the cams have to be removed as well? Also what is the size of the spline driver for the head bolts please?
  2. I've got a plan. I have some 20K thermistors on order. These reduce to 1.6K at 95 degrees so in parallel with the existing temp sensor that should turn on the fans well below boiling point. I will connect one in parallel with the existing coolant sensor via a switch (so as not to compromise cold-starting) and strap it to the cylinder head. That should be job done I hope.
  3. OK with the 5k variable resistor (if anyone tries this I would recommend a 10K variable resistor as with 5K the ecu things the temp is up to normal and its a bit hard to start on the lean mixture): Fans come on slow at 1.65K ohm Fans come on fast at 1.2K ohm (and temp gauge goes to nearly red) So the fan circuits work but neither the temp sensor on the car or my aftermarket one go down low enough in resistance. The aftermarket one is PN: FOR4337456 which is the correct one. I am now a bit stumped as even that Ford chart (see above) shows the temp sensor at 2K ohm when boiling point is reached so even a sensor conforming to spec isn't going to turn my fans on. I'll maybe see if a breakers has an original one otherwise I could wire up some kind of switch but as the temp gauge with the current sensor never goes above normal, how would I know when it nees to be turned on? Does anyone know if you can remap the ecu to the temp sensor with Forscan?
  4. I found this chart on the internet for a Ford CTS and the values are close to what my aftermarket sensor reads although my aftermarket is still on the high side: https://www.google.com/search?channel=trow&q=mazda+temp+sensor+resistance&tbm=isch&source=univ&client=firefox-b-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi0msb7y4DkAhVVilwKHVNHDTwQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1214&bih=943#imgrc=dv7nvSbK6rdcPM:
  5. Well I bought an aftermarket temp sensor but the fugures don't look good as it reads much too high: 20 degrees C 43K ohm 65 degrees C 11.5K ohm 82 degrees C 6.8K ohm 100 degrees C 3.3K ohm which is never going to turn my fans on; I need something nearer 1K ohm at high temp. I'll have to return the sensor and hopefully get a refund. I'll measure what the ECU actually needs when my variable resistor arrives
  6. Thanks. I think if you were sitting in a jam or slow moving traffic, your fan would need to come on to avoid overheating. Mine boils up just sitting idling in the driveway after about 20 minutes. The radiator gets very hot but with no airflow it can't dissipate heat. I've got a 5K ohm variable resistor on order. I can substitute that in the sensor socket and find out what resistance is required to fire up the fans slow and fast. Then I can test any new sensor I get will provide that resistance BEFORE fitting it.
  7. Hi Thanks for the figure at 80deg C. There are no fault codes. The gauge never goes above mid-way even with the coolant boiling out of the expansion tank. I am thinking the sensor must be faulty as it never triggers the fans to come on or the gauge to rise above mid-way. If I connect a lower resistor then the fans do come on so the fan circuits are live and working ; just waiting to be turned on. Does anyone have the resistance or voltage figure for when the low-speed and high-speed fans should kick in please? If you have a Hayne's manual, it might say in there under the cooling section specifications.
  8. Can someone please tell me what the resistance should be for a Fiesta Mk6 coolant temperature sensor (CTS) please at cold and hot temperatures? The guage never gets past midway but the fans dont come on and the engine overheats. If I bypass the CTS with a 1K ohm resistor then the high speen fan comes on so the circuit is working and I'm thinking the CTS resistance is not going low enough to trigger a high temp.
  9. How is anything going to warp because a thermostat is not installed? I think the only downside in winter would be a cool heater and less mpg. Generally I would expect the engine to be under less stress without a thermostat as the temp cycling takes longer.
  10. I have very same problem with my 1.6 duratec. Water in the cylinder head boils and pushes coolant out of the expansion tank. However temperature gauge shows normal (faulty temp sensor?) and the fan is not working. Top hose gets hotter than the bottom and radiator gets hot but maybe not hot enough compared to the top hose. As you said leaving the thermostat out lets it run OK, is that an option to live with? My guess for your problem and maybe mine, is restricted flow through the radiator hence at idle not enough coolant is getting pushed through the rad. BTW anyone know how to debug the fan; it is not coming on with air con either. I don't seem to have any volts down at the fan.
  11. Thanks for all your help on this! I got it sorted by taking off the throttle body and cleaning it with carb cleaner. It was bunged up so that althought the butterfly was partially open, not enough air was getting through. I don't know why this coincided with my spark plug testing; maybe coincidence or maybe the misfiring was causing some blow back of gunk.
  12. UPDATE: If I take off one of the two small vacuum hoses from the throttle body to some kind of switch, the car will idle; obviously letting enough air in to keep it idling. But that doesn't really solve the problem does it as it is supposed to be connected to that switch.
  13. Can anyone help with this please? There is no seperate idle control valve; its the model where everything is in the throttle body. The two vacuum hoses coming off are OK, no splits. Is there any way to make it reset?
  14. Does it get worse just after revving up? If so it could be the head gasket; that's what mine is doing. Get someone to rev up and down and feel if the top hose swells in time with it indicating the system getting pressurised from exhaust gasses.