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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta ST-Line X 1.0 Ecoboost 100PS
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  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
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  • Location
    Blackburn, Aberdeenshire

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  1. That’s the kind of answer we needed! [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I’d be curious about this too, but I don’t have an answer I’m afraid! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. As have I, and they work well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. The newer ones have LED headlights in the projector housings, so not the same as the first picture but still LED low beam. I couldn’t say if you can just stick an LED bulb into an older version though... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Yes, they’re used as turning lights so the one on the side you’re indicating towards or have the steering wheel turned towards will come on while leaving the other off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. My ST Line X did this one time and I almost rolled into the bin on my drive because I usually rely on it rather than the handbrake when I leave the house in the morning. Thought that it was the wife turning it off or something and never thought much of it. Only happened the once.
  7. If I had to guess I would say that it's a DPF regeneration cycle taking place and that if you took a decent length run at higher speeds it would stop until you'd done a few shorter trips again.
  8. I’d say that is a fair price for the work done. Good result. As for the tracking, you can get a very good idea of tracking without something as fancy as a laser alignment setup so it’s not unrealistic that he checked it and was happy with it. Glad you got it sorted though, and for a lot less than the original quote! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I imagine that unless they’re really quite worn that some silicon spray would certainly help. Hard to give a more useful answer without seeing them in person of course. Haha. The brake cost made me chuckle too because the parts are ridiculously cheap for these cars so it looks like they’re just taking the mick with the labour. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I’m not sure about the actual service cost and what’s involved but I know that you’d be able to get that work done for a lot less if you went to an independent garage. The exhaust could likely be patched which would save you paying for the most expensive section (since it has the cats in it), and I’m not sure what exactly a ‘worn’ exhaust is and why the rear section would need replaced if it’s not working. Track rod ends can be bought for £15 so the labour is pretty expensive on that. Brake fluid change I’d expect to be around the £40 mark. Again, rear bushes are about £20 so labour is pretty expensive on those, although I’m aware it takes some effort to get them changed. But still. Overall I think if you took it to an independent garage that was fair, you should really be looking at less than £500 for it all to get fixed, but that’s just an estimate... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I have it on mine. Took 10 minutes to install and makes a very noticeable difference to the throw difference. The actual shift is a bit more difficult because the pivot point has obviously moved to shorten the shifter travel. Nothing that bothers me though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yes, I think the ST line x for Titanium X levels of kit, including the traffic sign recognition. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. You need the correct camera and setup I believe. Mine does this but had it as a factory fit option when I bought it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I believe that the sensitivity can be adjusted through the various car setting menus, so you should be able to turn it down. For the grinding, I could be wrong, but think that it's something to do with the ABS system essentially priming itself and/or applying the brakes. All cars I've had which used the front collision systems have done similar in terms of sounds, but it was usually only when it decided to actually apply the brakes.
  15. The clicking noise is the starter motor (the solenoid in it if I remember correctly) trying to start the car and not having enough power. My immediate thought is that the battery is almost flat. My advice would be to invest in a trickle charger if you're not driving it at all yet as that will keep the battery topped up and save you having to pay the ridiculous cash to actually replace the battery, which is often the case if they get run completely flat.
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