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About Tekno

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    2017 FORD EDGE TITANIUM 230ps
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing

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  1. When i first got my edge i used WiFi to update the sync system wasn't long at all but for the latest i update to my sync 3 i did it via USB as the file size was a lot bigger (could use WiFi on phone but thought better to use USB for this one due to file size and black-spots). First update was sync system took about 30 mins to update without interruptions if your using a relatively old 32GB stick about 5GB update newer stick with faster speed might be quicker. The maps however was 27GB should have taken about 45-60 mins hour and half later still not done (again old stick) had to turn off at that point obviously not advised but hey needs must took out USB when starting again it said update paused and will continue when you put USB in or something like that so left it at that for a few days knowing I have anther long drive ahead. Couple of days later I put USB in again on that day drove four about 45 mins still not complete so left USB in and carried about my day to see if it would just sort itself out. went out to it yesterday morning and withing 20 seconds of starting update complete please remove USB and all done and updated now. So basically not the end of the world if you shutdown when updating the maps (in my case anyway). As the system seems to use the blackberry QNX software (sandboxes each program individually so if one crashes shouldn't crash the lot) it should be fine doing any kind of update like this as it will copy files to its memory and then overwrite on the next startup unlike windows updates that do most of the overwriting as its doing it IE sync 2 (windows based system)
  2. Firstly I wasnt suggesting that you spend thousands of pounds on a new system just giving you another side to the coin. Secondly I'm not making assumptions I picked 1 engine type and check on the mapping software systems and used a average for that engine type based on leading filter specs vs a high quality (non eBay cheap crap) induction kit. Let's try this again in laymen terms. A flter that allows X flow per min will not be able to give the same performance gains as a larger flow per min filter (think of small straw vs a hose pipe for example), given a carbon fiber heat resistant induction system made for the vehicle specifically and designed by a highly complex computer algorithm, not some crap high reverberation universal tube made from some cheap aluminium that causes high turbulence in the air flow system (again cheap ebay items and Halfords junk). That should be basic enough for anyone not in the industry of automotive engineering and design. Stock boxes are adequit for anyone who wants to stay in the stage 1-2 bracket but not if you looking to go further. I would imaging most people would also want to argue a forged engine set up won't make a difference either but it make huge differences in what you can put through a car for instance you can push most stock vehicles massively higher in bhp with new turbos intake systems and maps but forgetting that the internals of the engine have a vibration/ heat limits with out fitting forged components its a mear ticking time bomb before things go horribly wrong I can't tell you how many blown up civics, golf's, focus rs and I have seen pushing 600+bhp that have basicly melted inside or shaken to pices down to people not knowing what they are doing and just taking people's money with no remorse. Again a stock panel filter and a performance panel filter have very little differences but if you want a better sound or want to have some real fun go for a proper induction kit. Oh and a 1.6 engine is four pot and the 1.0 ecobost is three the intake system is different 😉
  3. could be dpf or egr issue can of wynns egr cleaner see if it sorts it
  4. Do you have LED bulbs fitted if so fit normal bulb and see if it cures its. Normally the problem if the car had flickering lights
  5. When i say MAP im referring to the MAP/Boost sensor the not engine map in the ECU. (manifold absolute pressure = MAP) if it read higher or lower pressure than it should it shuts down the turbo system to prevent damage. Boost leaks are a git to find some signs can be slight oiling around joins excess dirt build up along pipes. You can use a heavy smoke source to see if you getting a blow from the intake system, but it need to be heavy smoke other wise you won't see it there was some i saw a while ago with dye in as well so you could use a uv source, other tricks are using a mist spray (be careful flammable etc) around the pipes and joins to see if you have air coming out or air being drawn in the engine pitch will change for a second or two. Side note check for weak jubiles or spring clips on the pipes they could be leaking under pressure. Without knowing full vehicle details hope this helps.
  6. Tekno


    Most likely wrong battery i would imagine the old one was either an 075 type 60ah and about 500-550cca 1.8 diesel should be a type 100 battery 70ah 620-670cca More than likely a second hand dealer at some point in its history put on the wrong battery as he was being cheap just to shift it from his forecourt as the battery died while it was sat there. cca basically mean peak out put so as much power as the battery can deliver in one hit for example 70ah battery with a constant 1 amp drain 70 hours life but at very low force for want a a better term. but when you need it to dump power in one go ie starting 620cca is the force behind more force behind the power quicker things move but for a lot less usable time.
  7. few things to check Map sensor/boost pressure sensor cat could be blocked not allowing engine to breath properly so the turbo cant spool up to speed boost leak any sign of leakage from intake system after the turbo or intercooler leak if fitted Mas air flow sensor could be at fault ie it thinks its getting x meters per second or air per second when its getting y meters per second throwing off the map senors as it should read x boost psi but its getting y boost psi. All these little things could lead to no boost as the system shuts down to protect itself also is the turbo a new second or recon as we say in the trade just coz you replaced it dont mean its ok. is the actuator adjustable could have been set wrong so your loosing to much pressure and not getting the turbo up to speed to give you the boost. lots to take in i know but its always hard to diagnose something like this remotely.
  8. All panel filters if laid out have less material hence less filtration cone filters can have double the surface area allowing for more filtration and air flow and more o2 per million. Panel filters on average between 1/2 bhp to about 10 bhp extra at best depending on setup Cold Air Induction start at about 15bhp and up depending on setup also have a much better sound more throat to them a true cold air induction kit will remove the original box and you will fit new scoop and a cone filter inside a new completely sealed box allowing for true cold air induction about £150 plus from reputable supplier. An ebay special induction kit is a warm air induction kit no box or poor box with no insulating about £30-60 Side not the OE filter boxes are not as good at dissipating heat as carbon fibre induction boxes. 25 years experience as a mechanical engineer specialising in the automotive sector with to many qualifications to list, i don't want to get in an argument with anyone but scientific fact is scientific fact.
  9. If it was misdiagnosed its not your fault!!! its the technicians. Get the main earths checked on the battery connections and the main earth for the dash checked by drivers seat area they can corroded causing canbus errors.
  10. When you try and start it do all the lights go dim on the dash and have you tried jump starting it. if jumping it works most likely battery issue or loose wire on battery or starter. if jumping it but it turns over really slowly or still nothing i would say starter is foobar. when jumping the car good leads and engine running with 1500+revs on a similar size engine little engines little boost to car battery.
  11. Hi flow panel filters poor sound poor filtration (more muck in engine) very small performance boost. COLD AIR INDUCTION KIT better sound better performance better filtration.
  12. By the sounds of it your battery is on its way out if its the original battery on a 2013 car this would be most likely. For the start system to work the condition of the battery is monitored now this is where it gets tricky to check as a standard volt meter wont give enough info as it monitors volt drop and amps to ensure the vehicle wont turn off if it thinks it wont start again so you get the grey logo and it stops working. now the batteries themselves are very specific you need to get the correct one or again it wont work most people and dealers are chea sorry all but this is the case you need an AGM or EFB battery for a stop start system to work if you fit a lead acid standar battery you run the risk of basicly bricking the cars control units. Without knowing your exact model of fiesta just a 1.0 ecoboost 2013 with a quick nose around points to it being an EFB type 901 battery have a look at yours make sure its the right one approx 65ah65ah with 650cca and it will say on it efb or start stop battery if not the system is at risk and the car could fail on you.
  13. Does the window go down ok and come back up but wont close fully or is it not doing anything now. with the lock all other doors ok? if going up and down but not fully closing simply put have the door panel off to make sure the windows has a free run no obstructions as well as around the window seal in the door anything could be jamming it up. If its not doing anything at all most likely a power fault either fuse or can be quite common for the door jam wires to break meaning you normally get an intermittent fault or 1 thing wont work when the rest do then the rest start to fail. This could also be your door lock fault if its just this door.
  14. If your engine fan is on all the time replace the fan switch should sort it. As for not hot air in the cabin when the main fan is fixed this may improve or may not things to try will be thermostat may be stuck open means the engine will take forever to warm up especially in the winter and you will be using more fuel as a cold engine is an un-efficient engine. If the engine is getting up to temp on the gauge allowing the temp sender is ok and not faulty this would mean the thermostat should be working but you could have a blockage or air lock in the heatermatrix (small internal radiator in the dash board near the heater blower) hope some of this info helps.