Dozz

Budding Enthusiast
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    25
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About Dozz

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    dave
  • Ford Model
    Focus Fiesta
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

Recent Profile Visitors

98 profile views
  1. Air con pump clicking in and out. Maybe needs regassing?
  2. Is there any chances you could of got the maths wrong? I'm only suggesting that as you are struggling to find any other reason. My driving is mainly in town as the car is used for driving instruction. Considering all the start stop driving I do plus the car is idling for quite sometime in car parks or side of the road the worst mpg I've ever got was 37.9mpg and best 44mpg. All figures calculated not from the dash read out but it's never more than a couple of mpg out. On the run 65mph mostly free flowing I got a real world 57mpg which I was really pleased with. Same vehicle 2.0tdci 163 powershift Tit X. Still burn through a tank a week mind. My mk7 1250cc manual which I use for manual lessons only gets 35-37mpg teaching. As for the regen theory, my instant mpg reading jumps from 0.2 g/hr to 0.3 sometimes 0.4 g/hr when it's regening. The fans make a racket, the creep speed picks up oh and stinks. If it was constantly regening I think you'd notice it....... or it would of caught fire by now.
  3. I own a 2012 2.0tdci 163 powershift. I don't know what mileage your one has covered but I'm on 62k now. Purchased second hand with 56k miles. Hasn't missed the beat. On top of that I use it driving instruction so it gets a hard life. Mine has had the gearbag oil changed twice in it's life to date and I'll be doing yearly from now on. I really do think you are just unlucky. I did have that very strange start once. Where it cranked in to life sounding like one of the engines from the Titanic and stalled straightaway but not done it since and starts brilliantly ever since. Apart from fitting a reversing camera/shat nav set up it's been pretty bomb proof. I do get the occasional fault with the BLIS system but that's something related to wet roads. One day I'll pull my finger out and look. As you've chucked a fair wedge of cash at it all ready I'd give it a chance now and see how it performs.
  4. Dozz

    sad times

    Hmmm in situations like these is wrong to want to drill a hole in their car roof and put a hose pipe in over night? 🤔
  5. Weekend warrior here. You do need some special bits and bobs. Camshaft setting bar, crankshaft locking pin and timing case alignment tool. Cost about 30 quid on fleabay. From what I understand it's pretty much luck of the draw if the bottom belt is errr a belt or chain. It's pretty easy to find out and wish I'd checked myself than believe others. Remove the lower tensioner. It's down by the aux belt tensioner. If it's flat you have a belt. If it has a slight dome it's a chain. The job isn't hard and there's enough room just if you lift or lower the engine once the mounts off. It's just a bit of a faff moving loads of bits and bobs out the way Oh and if you need a good price on a bottom belt and seal I'm yer man 😩
  6. Job done. 2007 car but only 71k miles so overdue on time but under on mileage. I actually got lucky in a way. I phoned Ford's and asked them and the people who supplied the belt and both informed me I had a lower wet belt! Nope ive got a chain. So just did top belt and water pump. Aux belt tensioner was seized and while trying to free it off I broke it. Luckily eurocarsharts had a discount deal on today so wasn't to bad. Would I do another one? Yeah why not, it's not that bad a job just ***** loads of gubbins in the way. I'd find a way of doing it without disconnecting the fuel lines next time. Proper stinker to get started first time.
  7. Has anybody got an idea on how many hours Ford allows to replace the top belt, water pump and lower wet belt on the 1.8tdci? I started the tear down tonight I got as far as arch and belly pain off, cam cover off, top engine mount off, top belt cover off and water pump off. Eleventybillion other bits of ***** off or out the way. Time taken 2 and quarter hours and I didn't mash anything up but did lose time to trying to find the bastarding lost 10mm socket. 😡
  8. So I've snuck in via the back passage (ooo err) from the Focus forum. I've got a 2.0lt tdci mk3 Focus with the wet clutch DCT. I understand the Mondeo used this box a lot more than the Focus. So thought you guys might have a better idea of where to buy the filter and oil for the gearbag And what oils are better or worse?
  9. Not sure if this is any help, I own a 2012 2.0 tdci powershift. I've noticed at first start of the day if I press the button and release it quickly it cranks for a very short period and stops. Yet if I hold the button for only 1 or 2 seconds longer it fires straight up. I had this down as glow plugs heating but it does it even when we had that 30° heat earlier this year. Can't say if it's the battery I've only owned the car a couple of months and don't know the history of the battery. Maybe just try holding the button slightly longer and see what happens.
  10. That is an excellent idea. I'll do that first and mean time I'll ask on the Forscan forum if it's doable
  11. Picture of the unit. Both left and right carry same part number. I've found some but they finish AF instead of AE. Does the 2 last numbers make a difference?
  12. Ok. I cleared dtc's, reset the SODR but not the SODL. Drove for about 20 miles and fault returned. Disabled the BLIS in the dash menu then switch it back on it starts to work again. I'd just ignore it but car is used for driving instruction and I'm not allowed to present the car for test with any kind of warning lamp illuminated
  13. ===SODR DTC U3000:48-28=== Code: U3000 - Control Module Additional Fault Symptom: - Supervision Software Failure Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Side Obstacle Detection Control Module - Right
  14. So it looks like the car has decided to get grumpy with me. 2012 mk3 with BLIS.every now and then I get the error message on the dash saying there's an issue with the right hand side radar and it requires fixing. Thing is if I go into the menu and switch the system off and on the fault clears and it stays like this for ages until it throws its toys out the pram again. Switching car on and off also clears it. Only managed to get fault code once and that pretty much said right hand radar problems. The car is clean so can't be that, had my head under the back bumper and both Radar units are clean and wiring looks ok but that's all of done. Is this a known issue which needs a software update or is this the start of a failing radar unit?
  15. Dozz

    Digital speedo.

    I've looking to buy a dash cam. See some do a satellite speedo so may take a look at that