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About Static

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    1.25 Fiesta Titanium
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  • UK/Ireland Location
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    General Automotive

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  1. Sounds like your radio is picking up interference from the Bluetooth/USB module. Had an issue in the past similar to this and was resolved with a ground loop isolator. Also have you tried grounding the whole system back to the negative battery terminal? If it's interference you are getting, it could be from the chassis grounding.
  2. Have a look at the socket itself. Had a few cars that used ciggie chargers for phones and GPS units and the contact pins had lost their "Spring-ness" due to be constantly plugged in unlike a lighter that is only in for a few seconds. You can bend them back so they work with a PLASTIC pick.
  3. That is an awesome install you have there! On a slightly unrelated note, you seem to know a bit about installs, would you be willing to field a few questions from a newbee to the sound game?
  4. Full to the gills (42 litres according to Haynes manual), mine will do 550km which is split 95% motorway/5% getting to the motorway.
  5. I really miss having a Coolant Temp Gauge in the car so I am gonna put an EOBD gauge in to so I don't have to plumb in a sender unit into a coolant line. Anyone got any gauges fitted so I can get ideas for placement? Thinking of having it at the little fly window at the A-Pillar on the driver's side so its in line of sight but not distracting from the road if it was bang in the line of view. Cheers
  6. To the best of my memory from the garage days, some Air Con Pumps switch off under acceleration because the car is looking for all power from the engine to speed up. Turns back on with you return to idle/cruising RPM. Some new cars also do it with the alternator . It seems fine to me but like like Dozz above has said, get it gassed and see how you go.
  7. Thinking of sprucing up the interior with a new Mk7 Gear Knob and Boot. Question time: 1. Does anyone know what thread pattern i need for the Gear Knob? I've read its M12x1.5, M12x1.25 and I've also seen "Ford Adapters" but no thread sizes give. Can anyone help? 2. Can the factor Boot Retainer be separated from the factor Gear Knob if I want to keep the factory Boot or is it better to get an after market set up? 3. Probably from someone who works in a Main Dealer, is it still possible to get the plastic surround brand new or has Ford stopped stocking them? Tried a check online with the part number and can only find second hand ones. Was a touch heavy handed taking my current one off! Cheers
  8. And you all thought I was taking the ***** with the pirate radio station thing!
  9. Worked in a garage that had a nitogen inflator. Did 2 years on a single nitrogen fill on tires. Never had to top up until a punture. Highly recommend it.
  10. As I say to people, if you ran a printing company, would you be upset fixing the machine that makes you the money that you spend to fix it? Its just life unfortunately. If it was easy, it would be no fun.
  11. Mark 7 is same front and rear: I used these adapters on my fronts but they listed for rear too
  12. Hey all, 3 for the 4 alloys on the bus are ******* and not in the good way so they going in the bin. Any got the centre bore size, offset and centre cap sizes of standard 15s on a 2011 1.25? Have 15 inch 4 Y-spoke standards fitted at the moment. Cheers all!
  13. First advise is not to buy cats on ebay! Get it to an exhaust place at least that way you got some comeback if the car won't go through an emissions test.
  14. Also mix that diptane stuff a bit rich. It's meant to be mixed 100-1 so a 1 litre bottle treats 100 litres of fuel. My suggestion is mix it about a tank plus 10-20 litres. So if you have a 60 litre fuel tank, mix it for about 70-80 litres. It will burn a little hotter and help the regens. Just don't mix it 10-1 because that stuff will melt steel beams better than aviation fuel
  15. So being diesel, usually they need a good long run to get anything to clean so I'd say 300 miles would be par for the course trying to flush the fuel system without going the injector route (as for EGR, once them things are coked with carbon, a clean/replacement/delete is needed in my experience.) What the engine would need is to get to operating temp and run at that for a long distance. I always suggest at least a half tank run at temp (so 300 in a diesel sounds far) at revs slightly higher than you would normally cruise at. Say you normally motorway cruise at 1,500, step it up to 2,000 just to make the engine work a bit harder to get a good temp and volume in the exhaust gas to help the flush out. Suggest an oil change before hand just to make sure all is sweet for regens while you're doing the long run. Stopping for a gypsy's kiss is allowed but if you can do one consistent run, it'll work better since nothing can cool once you're running. If at that point it's still high, then I'd be ready to start changing parts.