Ste Cooper

Budding Enthusiast
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About Ste Cooper

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    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Stephen
  • Ford Model
    MK2.5 1.6 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. TBH i think anti virus is only needed if not following best practices on safe internet browsing. Use an up-to date reputable web browser (Not Internet Explorer) I use Chrome personally (best JavaScript engine) Don't visit any sites of poor repute Don't click on any popups or links, no matter how convincing they appear Don't interact with them at all, even using the little X that looks like it should close them. Disable adobe Flash (allot of browsers don't have it enabled anyway these days) Don't open links in emails. Don't download things from torrents etc Don't download things from unknown sources ELMConfig etc (even though i have so meh) The internet is a much safer place then it used to be. Its more a case of convincing you to run something or give personal details, then it is just browsing things. All of this is assuming you're not vulnerable to hardware base attacks.
  2. Hi all Has anyone had any experience with dismantling a power fold mirror for a MK2.5 Focus? More importantly the actual folding mechanism? I wish to clean and re-grease mine. Ive dismantled mine down to the folding mechanism but hit a brick wall. This is what im left with currently. Ive highlighted the main sections: So: Green Main assembly that appears to take the weight of the mirror and the power fold motor attaches to. Red The part that moves and the mirror is attached to. The power fold motor appears to mount underneath it. Orange The mounting fascia. This is bolted to the Green section. With those bolts removed its loose. However still fixed on the left hand side. I think there may be another srcrew on that side. If thats the case then the red section will need to be removed in order to separate this section and the green section. Pink This appears to be a tube that holds the red section to the green/orange assembly. It has a massive spring underneath it that keeps it under tension. I think it slots into a mounting on the green section and the tension from the spring keeps it in place. This is the top of the tube highlighted in pink. Judging by the two cutouts its intended for a tool to fit in them to prove leverage to spin. I attempted to compress the spring by putting a G-clamp on the top of the tube and the bottom of the fascia housing in orange. The problem is because that is just a fascia and not actually structural rather then really compressing the spring it just deforms the housing. It is however possible to compress the spring my about 4mm but i cant get any purchase on the tube to spin it. I will need to build something to use the cut outs. I'm hoping anyone has some experience at this and if im on the right track with how to disassemble this. My other fear is once i release the tube the spring is going to be impossible to compress back in again to refit. Any info would be great ta!
  3. Quick one Are they alternatives to Haynes that go into more detail? Iv'e had a Haynes for every car Iv'e owned but noticed in the last few iterations they have got more lacking in terms of detail and content. My old Fiesta didn't even have wiring diagrams for the Fuel Pump from what i remember. Iv'e seen a few people mention Workshop manuals but not entirely sure what is meant by these. Ta
  4. I used a lens polishing kit on my old Fiesta and ended up making them worse! I think you need to give it allot of time and prep to get them to come out good, and i was rushing to be fair. Try refurbing the lights before putting new bulbs in, may not be required. Plus you don't want to be putting bulbs in that are too bright for the reflectors to handle and dazzle everyone in front of you all the time!
  5. Try to think about it procedurally. Start at the coolant bottle and work your round following each pipe in turn, a decent quality torch will help. Look for crystals that may have formed on unions, that will be antifreeze left over when the water evaporates. I use pink anti freeze so the crystals would have a pink colour on mine for example. It could simply be a small leak where a pipe joins. On my old Fiesta the pressure release in the coolant bottle lid failed meaning it let steam out far sooner than it should. Over time the steam wasn't noticeable but the coolant did drop. However that was very slowly over a period of time.
  6. I realise this is quite an old thread now, not too sure if its still active but for any others attempting this Iv'e been successful, and thought i would share some info. I have a version C GEM, OP suggested they may work but can't confirm. Mine did, don't want to suggest that means it works for all though... I also had the issue with updating the config for the PCM, Empty VID block related error from what i remember. Following above by @TitaniumPenguin worked perfectly so thanks for sharing! I did it with V2.17 of ELMConfig end to end. Read elsewhere that 2.10 was needed for the upload section, no need for 2.10 on my machine however. I had a fun issue where if i selected 500k speed manually it wouldn't connect. However if i let ELMConfig auto select it chose 500k speed and everything was happy. Took me 17 min to dump the PCM firmware and just shy of 10 to upload. My cable came pre-modified but Win10 wouldn't auto install drivers, so wouldn't appear on a COM port for ELMConfig. Don't know if that means its not geniune but installing drivers from here sorted that issue. http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/support/Knowledgebase/Article/View/1/0/how-to-install-elm327-usb-cable-on-windows-and-obd2-software I don't believe sharing that link is an issue, but a quick Google search would find it again, only followed step 1 to install the drivers however. Hopefully that will help others still trying to do this 7 years on from the original post! EDIT: Oh and just buy a four spoke wheel, its a hell of a lot easier than retrofitting buttons to a three spoke. It can look quite neat if you fabricate a cover plate for each side but a ridiculous PITA.
  7. When were its Aux belts last changed?
  8. Not too sure if the 2014 focus is MK2 or MK3 but my dad had similar issues i believe on his MK2 and it was loose connector on bottom of fusebox.
  9. If i remember correctly it was a T50 bolt and the whole unit came out (seat belt socket and tensioner), same as my Focus. My Fiesta was a MK6. Unplug the connector under the seat, remove the specific cable leading to the tensioner and its out. Take photo's of the connector before you remove the plug then you know where to put it back! May need to remove a bit of plastic trim to allow it. When i did mine i took the whole seat out as it gave me enough visibility to see but may be able to do it in position. The seat was just 4 x T50 or similar from memory. But yes disconnect battery and wait 20 min or so is usually what is advised.
  10. this may have useful info for you
  11. Sadly i don't have my Fiesta anymore so can't check! but from what i remember there were two pipes on the top of the tank that connect to the fuel filler neck. They both had small length of rubber hose connecting them to the filler neck pipes. I assume thats what you mean? Search on ebay / scrappers for the filler neck, you may be able to get a used one with the rubber pipes still connected.
  12. Id take it out and check the seal around the edge. If you move the mirror all the way down and to the inside of the car you should be able to see two clips on the top. I used an old tent peg to unclip them then remove the outer shell on my Focus. From the picture looks to be the same. On old headlights i used to use a heat gun to remove the glass and re-seal it. Dunno if this would be too small to do the same.
  13. So ive begun a project to attempt to interact with the CAN system on my Focus. The Repo is here: https://github.com/ste2425/ArduinoCanBUSWIP In the root of that repo is a spreadsheet with the messages iv'e gathered so far and what i think at this early stage their meaning is. The code is written in C++ and runs on an Arduino. Take the code with a pinch of salt, I'm a web developer and used to very abstracted languages such as C# and JavaScript so this is quite a new experience! I never knew i would miss dynamically allocated Array sizes for example! Iv'e made quite a bit of progress to say this is my first Arduino project and i have very little experience with C++. I can read messages, filter them out and believe ive located messages relating to indicators, locking / unlocking, brake peddle, clutch peddle, main beam, dipped beam etc. I've noticed that when the bus comes alive, turn radio on, lock car through key, turn ignition on, it sends messages all the time. Each message indicating a current status at that point. So every time message id 210 is emitted the first message body block will always have a value of 32 if the doors are locked. Only changing to 64 if the doors open. However i only expected a message to be sent on the action of locking or unlocking so that was unexpected. Also different message ID's appear to emit at different frequencies. This is all interacting with the MSCAN at this stage. I do however have a couple of questions and will probably have more as this project continues so i will update this thread. First question. Are can messages a cause or affect? I mean does the message trigger the action, or is the existence of the message indicating the action happened? For example I attempted to emit the message relating to doors being locked and expected my doors to lock. However they didn't. The bus came alive and messages started emitting, which makes me believe i correctly sent the message. Also the message ID relating to locking doors, 210, emits with the new values i sent. From that i gathered that i did correctly send the message. However all the actions that should have happened of the back of that, foot-well lights go out, interior light go out etc didn't. This and the fact messages are being emitted all the time makes me think their more of a read mode indicating the current status of that system, not directly instructing that system to change. Which leads me on the the next question. Second question Are the messages being emitted read-only, is there a special message i have to emit to indicate a status change / action? I need to read up on the CAN protocol and how you communicate with other systems on it. Do they literally just emit everything and other systems choose to react to it, or do you have to emit a special 'update' message to indicate intent? So if anyone has any information that could help with this project i would be very grateful to hear it! Ta
  14. Have you checked wring? Maybe there's a intermittent short etc. If the buttons are on the wheel itself maybe the squib could be failing? Had issues on much cheaper cars where that has happened.
  15. Thought it might be something like that. I did wonder why the connector for the Bluetooth module was so heavily populated, makes sense if it isn't communicating with the HU over CAN. The main reason for all of this is cost, i have all the equipment needed just laying around (everyone buys an Arduino and after making a few LED's blink it sits in a drawer!) I could open up the HU and intercept the various buttons presses directly by the Arduino, got experience with fine pitch soldering so shouldn't be too hard. (After HDMI modding an N64 anything's easy in comparison) Would also give me the ability to make the Arduino drive the LCD too. Looks like this is growing arms and legs but should still be a fun project, thanks for the info.