Ste Cooper

Budding Enthusiast
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About Ste Cooper

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Stephen
  • Ford Model
    MK2.5 1.6 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. Nah doubt it. At work we call it pair programming. Iv'e found that regardless of any perceived experience gap its still beneficial from a learning point of view for all involved. I enjoy looking at others code, always learn something new. Anyway thanks for all the info, ill look into it 👍
  2. It would, but i enjoy building things and figuring out how stuff works, cant do that if i just buy it 🙂 Awesome ill look into it. Yea im in the process of learning C. Mostly used to more abstracted languages like JS and C#. Not having dynamically allocated arrays was a big culture shock. Had a similar idea using an arduino, and an app on a rooted tablet to get IO via the tablet. Wasn't too sure on the coms between the arduino and the tablet, maybe some form of serial. Got the arduino reading CAN data from the car, struggling to properly understand the purpose of most of the messages though. However i have dozens of projects on the go and never seem to finish one before the next pops into my head! So the tablet idea hasn't evolved on from that yet. Do you have any of your source on Github/Bitbucket etc? I'd be really interested to have a look through.
  3. Not heard of them ill have a look. Always used Arduino's because im familiar with them. And got the equipment/IDE already available/configured (setting up VSCode for that was a huge PITA). I would use the Arduino whilst developing, then use the MCU directly with my own PCB in production. Its what im doing with the powerfold mirrors, got a stack of relay and canbus shields but when finished ill be able to fit all on one small PCB (or at least thats the plan)
  4. Fantastic thanks, exactly the info i wanted! It should be quite simple to use an Arduino or similar to achieve the same behavior. Being a software developer by trade that side of things is easy, its the hardware side i struggle with.
  5. Yup not using it so perfect time. Doing to rear arches next. However did front suspension on my dads Focus, same age, and its spotless under there. And he lives by the coast....
  6. Hi all Looking through the wiring diagrams available on this site for the MK2.5 focus, around the heated seats. I think I get the concept of how they work, the pads act like a resistor so they heat up when current passed through them. I assume then to vary the temperature you limit the current that can flow through them. That said I'm trying to understand the following wiring diagram and specifically the component named MODULE SEAT HEATER and how it works in relation to the above assumption. (its one page 97 BTW) I suspect the switch it self does not directly feed the elements otherwise it would have to be quite beefy to not burn out, so i assume there is some form of relay inside the MODULE SEAT HEATER. It also has its own direct power feed to that makes sense if there is a relay in there. However looking at the diagram the switch appears to contain a 5k potentiometer (if iv'e read it right) which explains the fact its a scroll wheel, however now I'm confused. If it is a simple relay in there how does the variable resistance of the dash switch change the resulting heat? Because that switch would trigger the relay? I assume there is something other than a relay doing it, but my knowledge of electrical components here really lets me down. Tried searching on ebay for one of these module and not found out. I was hoping to open it up and see what exactly is inside. Any help in understanding how this system works would be great thanks.
  7. Well today I'm going to be applying a colour coat over the top, just plain black, but here it is in primer. Whilst its all stripped its getting new wishbones, droplinks, disks & pads, new brake fluid and going to give the calipers and drums a paint too. Wanted to give it new struts and mounts too but then the money ran out! Or at least I'm hoping to do all that weather permitting. I used to work out in the rain but fed up of having to dry my tools out, plus i get achy now!
  8. Thanks all. Half way through sorting it. Surprisingly easy to strip it all down, even the ball-joints came out easy. Used to working on much smaller cars. Its amazing the difference arch liner make. Yea they collect crap in the sills so regular cleaning is needed but the rest of the arch is in great nick, just the bit in the center that was exposed.
  9. Hi all, hope everyone's keeping safe. Was under the car today and noticed some surface rust under the strut towers. Dont seem serious but worth nipping in the bud now. As this is such an awkward place and will get hammered from the elements what would the best technique be to treat it? Nows the perfect time to do so as I'm not really using it. I figured sand back and rust treat it then zinc primer. Not too sure if i should colour coat and leave at that or use under seal. Or both. Its going to be with rattle cans so not too sure how best to get them up in there either. Thanks for any advice.
  10. So i need to run some cables into the front doors for a project. Usually i just crimp some new terminals and fit them to the door connector in some unused slots, there's always been empty spaces. However iv'e read in order to disconnect the door connectors on the front of the face-lift MK2 Focus i have to remove the door entirely. Never done this before but the removal looks simple enough, question is on re-fitment is there anything special i have to do to align it. Or is it just bolt on and not adjustable? ta
  11. TBH i think anti virus is only needed if not following best practices on safe internet browsing. Use an up-to date reputable web browser (Not Internet Explorer) I use Chrome personally (best JavaScript engine) Don't visit any sites of poor repute Don't click on any popups or links, no matter how convincing they appear Don't interact with them at all, even using the little X that looks like it should close them. Disable adobe Flash (allot of browsers don't have it enabled anyway these days) Don't open links in emails. Don't download things from torrents etc Don't download things from unknown sources ELMConfig etc (even though i have so meh) The internet is a much safer place then it used to be. Its more a case of convincing you to run something or give personal details, then it is just browsing things. All of this is assuming you're not vulnerable to hardware base attacks.
  12. Hi all Has anyone had any experience with dismantling a power fold mirror for a MK2.5 Focus? More importantly the actual folding mechanism? I wish to clean and re-grease mine. Ive dismantled mine down to the folding mechanism but hit a brick wall. This is what im left with currently. Ive highlighted the main sections: So: Green Main assembly that appears to take the weight of the mirror and the power fold motor attaches to. Red The part that moves and the mirror is attached to. The power fold motor appears to mount underneath it. Orange The mounting fascia. This is bolted to the Green section. With those bolts removed its loose. However still fixed on the left hand side. I think there may be another srcrew on that side. If thats the case then the red section will need to be removed in order to separate this section and the green section. Pink This appears to be a tube that holds the red section to the green/orange assembly. It has a massive spring underneath it that keeps it under tension. I think it slots into a mounting on the green section and the tension from the spring keeps it in place. This is the top of the tube highlighted in pink. Judging by the two cutouts its intended for a tool to fit in them to prove leverage to spin. I attempted to compress the spring by putting a G-clamp on the top of the tube and the bottom of the fascia housing in orange. The problem is because that is just a fascia and not actually structural rather then really compressing the spring it just deforms the housing. It is however possible to compress the spring my about 4mm but i cant get any purchase on the tube to spin it. I will need to build something to use the cut outs. I'm hoping anyone has some experience at this and if im on the right track with how to disassemble this. My other fear is once i release the tube the spring is going to be impossible to compress back in again to refit. Any info would be great ta!
  13. Quick one Are they alternatives to Haynes that go into more detail? Iv'e had a Haynes for every car Iv'e owned but noticed in the last few iterations they have got more lacking in terms of detail and content. My old Fiesta didn't even have wiring diagrams for the Fuel Pump from what i remember. Iv'e seen a few people mention Workshop manuals but not entirely sure what is meant by these. Ta
  14. I used a lens polishing kit on my old Fiesta and ended up making them worse! I think you need to give it allot of time and prep to get them to come out good, and i was rushing to be fair. Try refurbing the lights before putting new bulbs in, may not be required. Plus you don't want to be putting bulbs in that are too bright for the reflectors to handle and dazzle everyone in front of you all the time!
  15. Try to think about it procedurally. Start at the coolant bottle and work your round following each pipe in turn, a decent quality torch will help. Look for crystals that may have formed on unions, that will be antifreeze left over when the water evaporates. I use pink anti freeze so the crystals would have a pink colour on mine for example. It could simply be a small leak where a pipe joins. On my old Fiesta the pressure release in the coolant bottle lid failed meaning it let steam out far sooner than it should. Over time the steam wasn't noticeable but the coolant did drop. However that was very slowly over a period of time.