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Ste Cooper

Budding Enthusiast
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Stephen
  • Ford Model
    MK2.5 1.6 Focus
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. Yup three wires, one permanent live, the other for when you open doors etc and the final is ground. From memory i believe its the same as the front light so i just extended each wire and wired it in to the same input on the secondary light. EDIT: Oh and dot't forget to properly glue the wires down or do something to manage vibrations or you may hear them rattle.
  2. Did this to mine couple of years ago, also wired in some vanity lights under the sun visors. I had some spare 10 amp cable I think it was so just used that. I think the interior light at the back is just a single 5w bulb. If I remember correctly to calculate amps its `amps = watts/volts` so 5/12 = 0.4A So as long as the cable you choose can handle that load you will be fine. Obviously if you run more lights such as the vanity lights like I did it will up the load you put through the wiring.
  3. Was bleeding the brakes on the Focus (Mk2.5) and noticed one of the front nipples is terribly rounded, ended up having to use vice grips on it. So want to replace it, figured it I'm doing that may as well do the rest. Is there anything special i need to be aware of with them? Are they a standard size, do they need to be made from certain materials to prevent corrosion? Seen boxes on ebay/amazon of assorted sizes, has anybody used these before?
  4. So I recently tackled the inevitable problem of water in the boot. It's crazy that even newer generations are still having this problem (different causes but still) Traced it back to cracks under the rear of the roof rails. Sealed them up and also sealed up all grommets under the taillights to be sure. Its been dry back there for a week now so want to stick my roof rails back down. I lifted the rear of them with a heat gun and patience so they are still in re-useable order. I tried some double sided foam tape that I've used for trim in the past but its isn't strong enough. Lifting the rails must have put a slight upwards bend in them. Not enough to see but enough to lift them up. Is there a product or a brand that is equal in strength to the OEM tape? From the residue it looks like it was double sided foam tape too but I guess much stronger. Thanks.
  5. Nah doubt it. At work we call it pair programming. Iv'e found that regardless of any perceived experience gap its still beneficial from a learning point of view for all involved. I enjoy looking at others code, always learn something new. Anyway thanks for all the info, ill look into it 👍
  6. It would, but i enjoy building things and figuring out how stuff works, cant do that if i just buy it 🙂 Awesome ill look into it. Yea im in the process of learning C. Mostly used to more abstracted languages like JS and C#. Not having dynamically allocated arrays was a big culture shock. Had a similar idea using an arduino, and an app on a rooted tablet to get IO via the tablet. Wasn't too sure on the coms between the arduino and the tablet, maybe some form of serial. Got the arduino reading CAN data from the car, struggling to properly understand the purpose of most of the messages though. However i have dozens of projects on the go and never seem to finish one before the next pops into my head! So the tablet idea hasn't evolved on from that yet. Do you have any of your source on Github/Bitbucket etc? I'd be really interested to have a look through.
  7. Not heard of them ill have a look. Always used Arduino's because im familiar with them. And got the equipment/IDE already available/configured (setting up VSCode for that was a huge PITA). I would use the Arduino whilst developing, then use the MCU directly with my own PCB in production. Its what im doing with the powerfold mirrors, got a stack of relay and canbus shields but when finished ill be able to fit all on one small PCB (or at least thats the plan)
  8. Fantastic thanks, exactly the info i wanted! It should be quite simple to use an Arduino or similar to achieve the same behavior. Being a software developer by trade that side of things is easy, its the hardware side i struggle with.
  9. Yup not using it so perfect time. Doing to rear arches next. However did front suspension on my dads Focus, same age, and its spotless under there. And he lives by the coast....
  10. Hi all Looking through the wiring diagrams available on this site for the MK2.5 focus, around the heated seats. I think I get the concept of how they work, the pads act like a resistor so they heat up when current passed through them. I assume then to vary the temperature you limit the current that can flow through them. That said I'm trying to understand the following wiring diagram and specifically the component named MODULE SEAT HEATER and how it works in relation to the above assumption. (its one page 97 BTW) I suspect the switch it self does not directly feed the elements otherwise it would have to be quite beefy to not burn out, so i assume there is some form of relay inside the MODULE SEAT HEATER. It also has its own direct power feed to that makes sense if there is a relay in there. However looking at the diagram the switch appears to contain a 5k potentiometer (if iv'e read it right) which explains the fact its a scroll wheel, however now I'm confused. If it is a simple relay in there how does the variable resistance of the dash switch change the resulting heat? Because that switch would trigger the relay? I assume there is something other than a relay doing it, but my knowledge of electrical components here really lets me down. Tried searching on ebay for one of these module and not found out. I was hoping to open it up and see what exactly is inside. Any help in understanding how this system works would be great thanks.
  11. Well today I'm going to be applying a colour coat over the top, just plain black, but here it is in primer. Whilst its all stripped its getting new wishbones, droplinks, disks & pads, new brake fluid and going to give the calipers and drums a paint too. Wanted to give it new struts and mounts too but then the money ran out! Or at least I'm hoping to do all that weather permitting. I used to work out in the rain but fed up of having to dry my tools out, plus i get achy now!
  12. Thanks all. Half way through sorting it. Surprisingly easy to strip it all down, even the ball-joints came out easy. Used to working on much smaller cars. Its amazing the difference arch liner make. Yea they collect crap in the sills so regular cleaning is needed but the rest of the arch is in great nick, just the bit in the center that was exposed.
  13. Hi all, hope everyone's keeping safe. Was under the car today and noticed some surface rust under the strut towers. Dont seem serious but worth nipping in the bud now. As this is such an awkward place and will get hammered from the elements what would the best technique be to treat it? Nows the perfect time to do so as I'm not really using it. I figured sand back and rust treat it then zinc primer. Not too sure if i should colour coat and leave at that or use under seal. Or both. Its going to be with rattle cans so not too sure how best to get them up in there either. Thanks for any advice.
  14. So i need to run some cables into the front doors for a project. Usually i just crimp some new terminals and fit them to the door connector in some unused slots, there's always been empty spaces. However iv'e read in order to disconnect the door connectors on the front of the face-lift MK2 Focus i have to remove the door entirely. Never done this before but the removal looks simple enough, question is on re-fitment is there anything special i have to do to align it. Or is it just bolt on and not adjustable? ta
  15. TBH i think anti virus is only needed if not following best practices on safe internet browsing. Use an up-to date reputable web browser (Not Internet Explorer) I use Chrome personally (best JavaScript engine) Don't visit any sites of poor repute Don't click on any popups or links, no matter how convincing they appear Don't interact with them at all, even using the little X that looks like it should close them. Disable adobe Flash (allot of browsers don't have it enabled anyway these days) Don't open links in emails. Don't download things from torrents etc Don't download things from unknown sources ELMConfig etc (even though i have so meh) The internet is a much safer place then it used to be. Its more a case of convincing you to run something or give personal details, then it is just browsing things. All of this is assuming you're not vulnerable to hardware base attacks.
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