broken ford

Budding Enthusiast
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About broken ford

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  • First Name
    Alex
  • Ford Model
    Focus mk2 1.8tdci
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Midlothian

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  1. IT IS FIXED!! Looks like it was the lower connecor in the passenger footwell (c112 I think) for the first time I managed to get a couple of wires from the OBD to a multimeter so I could see the ohm output as I was playing with connectors c113 and c112. I was about the make a wire bypass for C113 and went for one last wiggle check where I could see the result on the DVM, nothing on c113 so reconnected, it was C112 was nearly at closed that my seem it went to 60 ohms from 120, I tried closing the connector...120 ohms, went back to nearly closed...60 ohms. Tried that a few times, it was quite sensitive. Quickly got the laptop and obd reader and (eventually worked out how to )cleared the fault codes, the car then started ! Kept the engine running and closed c112. it kept running, no warnings, moved it around a it and still running, no errors. For a connector that would only give 60 ohms if very carefully positioned it seemed fine and robust after the car was running and the faults cleared. I have left it like this, run the car around, stopped and started a few times...what the heck happened? I am happy but dont get what is going on with a very sensitive connector that can now be closed and moved without disruption. Not sure if I should make some new bypass connectors for this connector or just leave it. Anyway, it runs 🙂 I would like to thank Peter and Isetta sincerely for the good help and saving my car
  2. Respect for you and your knowledge, really appreciate the experience and time you are giving I will thoroughly check C113 tomorrow, it is in such a difficult location but well worth checking all again, feeling confident now 🙂 If I cant see anything I will solder new wires across as you suggest. Lets hope for good news tomorrow !
  3. Lower (smaller) connector in passenger footwell. IC + C90 connected plug end to bulkhead direction =120 ohm plug end to floor direction - 0 IC connnected, C90 disconnected to bulkhead = 120 ohm to floor = 0 IC disconnected, C90 connected to bulkhead = 0 to floor =0 I then used some lan cable twisted pair wires to connect between C90 and the IC but it made no difference, I still got 120 ohm at the OBD. The connection was temp and not the best, used paper clips into the c90 end and made a nick in each of the twisted pair just before the IC but I think I made the connection ok. Not sure doing that was useful or not
  4. Just checked again. C113 opened, C90 and IC connected c113 to bulkhead connector = 120 c113 to footwell connector =120 C90 DISCONNECTED IC CONNECTED c113 to bulkhead connector = 0 c113 to footwell connector = 120 C90 CONNECTED IC DISCONNECTED c113 to bulkhead connector = 120 c113 to footwell connector = 0 I noticed there is another pair of grey/red and blue/red wires going into 8 and 9 of the C113 connector going to the footwell, they are part of the stock wiring bundle but there are no corresponding pins in the other half of the connector. I will now go check the other two lower footwell connectors
  5. Thanks Peter, You give me hope ! 🙂 I think the C90 does go down to the PCM as I followed that large cable bunch when I had the air filter and PCM out. I will make the checks you suggest as soon as I get home, if I had to make new twisted pairs going from the OBD - IC - C113 that would be reasonably easy. Kind regards, Alex
  6. checked the car this morning before work. Disconnected the IC: disconnected C90 read 120 ohms from the lead end of the connector block, read 0 at the pins on the fuse board socket. OBD read at 0 HS pins, and 120 ohms at MS pins Reconnected the IC: disconnected C90 read 120 ohms from the lead end of the connector block, read 0 at the pins on the fuse board socket OBD read 120 ohm at HS pins, I forgot to check the MS pins but I expect they will be 60 as usual, will confirm after work. Does that mean the PCM is faulty? if so is it possible to replace it with a used unit and reconfigure it? Thank you once again, if this fault can be sorted then no one else should need to look any further than the good advice I have received here
  7. Hi, Just measured the ohms across two correspending canbus terminals in the C90 socket in the engine bay fuse box but had no reading, the connector plug gives 120 ohms but nothing when measuring resistance on the fuse board pins. Does that mean the fault is between the engine bay fuse box connector C90 and the PCM? or to the IC? I had assembled all the PCM unit again but I am happy to do again if needed. Checked resistance from the OBD and still get 120 ohms no matter if the C90 is plugged in or not. I checked the other two (MS?) pins on the OBD and got 60 ohms, not sure if that is helpful When the PCM was out before I did a continuity check from the lowest footwell connector to the PCM and it was fine. It does not look like anyone has added any extra wires in any place I can see, it all seems fairly untouched but there is a connection problem somewhere for sure I don't think anyone has had problems like this but at least this thread will help them trace faults
  8. Hi Peter/ Isetta, I confused myself, it is the power steering connector I am looking for. Yes I have reconnected everything though the IC is connected I am leaving it perched on the steering wheel in case I need to strip it yet again. I already found the ABS connector. I did the check you mentioned and got a reading of 120 ohms but not sure if that can point to a fault location. Funny thing is that I had 60 ohms at the obd when I first began fault finding, it was after re soldering the IC that I noticed I was getting 120 ohms. I really appreciate the time and advice to help me sort this
  9. Had another go on sunday, removed the battery to check the ABS connector, all good, like new inside, I could see the twisted wire pair, checking on the plug gave me 120 ohms so I put all back. Next opened the engine bay fuse box at the catches and able to see underneath all the connections, all looked good, no corrosion, no sign of any breaks in the twisted wire pair anywhere. put all back together and still getting 120 ohm at the obd connector which still can't communicate with the ELM reader. I found and checked the connector high up in the LH footwell, that was good, no corrosion same with the lower two. Looked for more connectors towards the rear but found none, all wiring dry and in good condition. I have not yet checked the ABS connector, I think Peter said the twisted pair go there, can anyone tell me where to find that connector please, it is the very last one I can check, all others look good still cant understand this. Regards
  10. Thanks Isetta, I read your post this afternoon, after seeing what you went through with all the wiring and still not reliable, I think I am best to give up. It means I lose £1000 or whatever it is worth...painful. I have never had to scrap a car for a repair problem, still can't belive how poor this design is. Need to find my sledgehammer now
  11. Have to give up now. Will try putting the car on Gumtree for someone who wants a dementing project, if no interest then off to the crusher. I hate this car, low mileage but screwed up due to some unfathomable electric issue, I don't want to go through all the rewiring Isetta carried out, I will get more pleasure from taking a sledge hammer to it. at least I learned never to buy a relatively modern ford again, such a waste. Thanks to everyone a
  12. Found and tested same wires from fuse box connector down to PCM, got contunuity and also tested successful for 120 ohm. So it seems good continuity everywhere but getting 120 everywhere I can check, still 120 at obd. If I could get the obd connector to work I think I could clear faults but not possible so far.
  13. found some LAN cable to use, identified the same blue red/grey red wires (this is correct colour combo not as i mentioned before) at the PCM, tested but got 0 zero no 120 ohm
  14. so far today I located connectors c112 and 113, all look good, dissconnected and reconnected both. When disconnected I done a continuity test to the correct wires that come from the obd pair (grey blue/grey red) continuity was good for both wires from obd to c112/113. I don't have any long wires here to bypass existing wires, is there anything else I should look at? Not sure where to find the wires for the power steering etc, will scrabble around. As I mentioned before, the glow plug light no longer comes on with the ign but the engine warning light does, that is new. I don't think this problem is going to be solved 😞 6 days all spare time on it so far
  15. Thank you Isetta and Peter, I will go over the individual wires tomorrow and check the connectors c112, 113, I had left off the trim panel last time. When I wrote a reading was 0 I meant zero . All the wiring and connectors look like new but something is broken somewhere, hopefully with the good advice from you kind folks it may be found soon.