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broken ford

Budding Enthusiast
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About broken ford

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Alex
  • Ford Model
    Focus mk2 1.8tdci
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Midlothian

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  1. Thanks for checking, I have the tank out, just the vapour valve to remove as I have to transfer it to the new tank. I seen a used one for sale on ebay so they must be able to be removed. regards
  2. Cheers, will try that later, was afraid to try too much and break it. If not a twist off, maybe some clips need pressed from inside? what a mystery
  3. seems it is the fuel tank vapour breather check valve/pipe assy. Still no idea how to remove
  4. Hi Folks, I am posting this on here as I believe the Fiesta MK5 and Puma share the same fuel tank and floor platform, I hope the fuel pipe fitting is a common fitting across a few models. My son just bought a 98 Puma 1.7, we have removed the old fuel tank to fit a brand new tank. I am really struggling to remove the pipe that fits on top of the tank next to the pump/sender unit. It has a large white connector and no push in clips unlike the std fuel pipes, it can't be pushed our via the sender unit access but it can turn. What is that pipe and how can I remove it, I ne
  5. Hi Folks, My son just bought a 98 Puma 1.7, we have removed the old fuel tank to fit a brand new tank. I am really struggling to remove the pipe that fits on top of the tank next to the pump/sender unit. It has a large white connector and no push in clips unlike the std fuel pipes, it can't be pushed our via the sender unit access but it can turn. What is that pipe and how can I remove it, I need to fit it to the new tank. Also any tips on how to remove the std fuel pipes? one with the red now has a busted push in clip ring, these have been left connected to the
  6. IT IS FIXED!! Looks like it was the lower connecor in the passenger footwell (c112 I think) for the first time I managed to get a couple of wires from the OBD to a multimeter so I could see the ohm output as I was playing with connectors c113 and c112. I was about the make a wire bypass for C113 and went for one last wiggle check where I could see the result on the DVM, nothing on c113 so reconnected, it was C112 was nearly at closed that my seem it went to 60 ohms from 120, I tried closing the connector...120 ohms, went back to nearly closed...60 ohms. Tried that a few times, it was quit
  7. Respect for you and your knowledge, really appreciate the experience and time you are giving I will thoroughly check C113 tomorrow, it is in such a difficult location but well worth checking all again, feeling confident now 🙂 If I cant see anything I will solder new wires across as you suggest. Lets hope for good news tomorrow !
  8. Lower (smaller) connector in passenger footwell. IC + C90 connected plug end to bulkhead direction =120 ohm plug end to floor direction - 0 IC connnected, C90 disconnected to bulkhead = 120 ohm to floor = 0 IC disconnected, C90 connected to bulkhead = 0 to floor =0 I then used some lan cable twisted pair wires to connect between C90 and the IC but it made no difference, I still got 120 ohm at the OBD. The connection was temp and not the best, used paper clips into the c90 end and made a nick in each of the twisted pair just before the IC b
  9. Just checked again. C113 opened, C90 and IC connected c113 to bulkhead connector = 120 c113 to footwell connector =120 C90 DISCONNECTED IC CONNECTED c113 to bulkhead connector = 0 c113 to footwell connector = 120 C90 CONNECTED IC DISCONNECTED c113 to bulkhead connector = 120 c113 to footwell connector = 0 I noticed there is another pair of grey/red and blue/red wires going into 8 and 9 of the C113 connector going to the footwell, they are part of the stock wiring bundle but there are no corresponding pins in the other half of the connector
  10. Thanks Peter, You give me hope ! 🙂 I think the C90 does go down to the PCM as I followed that large cable bunch when I had the air filter and PCM out. I will make the checks you suggest as soon as I get home, if I had to make new twisted pairs going from the OBD - IC - C113 that would be reasonably easy. Kind regards, Alex
  11. checked the car this morning before work. Disconnected the IC: disconnected C90 read 120 ohms from the lead end of the connector block, read 0 at the pins on the fuse board socket. OBD read at 0 HS pins, and 120 ohms at MS pins Reconnected the IC: disconnected C90 read 120 ohms from the lead end of the connector block, read 0 at the pins on the fuse board socket OBD read 120 ohm at HS pins, I forgot to check the MS pins but I expect they will be 60 as usual, will confirm after work. Does that mean the PCM is faulty? if so is it possible to replace it with a used u
  12. Hi, Just measured the ohms across two correspending canbus terminals in the C90 socket in the engine bay fuse box but had no reading, the connector plug gives 120 ohms but nothing when measuring resistance on the fuse board pins. Does that mean the fault is between the engine bay fuse box connector C90 and the PCM? or to the IC? I had assembled all the PCM unit again but I am happy to do again if needed. Checked resistance from the OBD and still get 120 ohms no matter if the C90 is plugged in or not. I checked the other two (MS?) pins on the OBD and got 60 ohms, not sure if th
  13. Hi Peter/ Isetta, I confused myself, it is the power steering connector I am looking for. Yes I have reconnected everything though the IC is connected I am leaving it perched on the steering wheel in case I need to strip it yet again. I already found the ABS connector. I did the check you mentioned and got a reading of 120 ohms but not sure if that can point to a fault location. Funny thing is that I had 60 ohms at the obd when I first began fault finding, it was after re soldering the IC that I noticed I was getting 120 ohms. I really appreciate the time and advice to
  14. Had another go on sunday, removed the battery to check the ABS connector, all good, like new inside, I could see the twisted wire pair, checking on the plug gave me 120 ohms so I put all back. Next opened the engine bay fuse box at the catches and able to see underneath all the connections, all looked good, no corrosion, no sign of any breaks in the twisted wire pair anywhere. put all back together and still getting 120 ohm at the obd connector which still can't communicate with the ELM reader. I found and checked the connector high up in the LH footwell, that was good, no corrosion same
  15. Thanks Isetta, I read your post this afternoon, after seeing what you went through with all the wiring and still not reliable, I think I am best to give up. It means I lose £1000 or whatever it is worth...painful. I have never had to scrap a car for a repair problem, still can't belive how poor this design is. Need to find my sledgehammer now
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