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About AndyDC

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  1. Most of those regular savers accounts (the ones where your balance must increase by a certain amount) have had rate decreases over the past years, I think my one with First Direct was 5% but then when it came to opening a new one at 12m, it was 2.75%, and I don't think they were alone in reducing rates. If you can currently afford to save (as compared to having savings that the balance isn't growing) then those type of accounts can be very good and rather than looking at it as 1/2%, look at it as it 2.75% on the newly saved money. If you don't want to risk the cash deposited, then you may want to avoid stocks & shares ISAs,
  2. That fuel line should be permanently full of fuel, and the system isn't designed to urge air itself that has to be done when the filter is replaced etc. It could be one pocket of air that simply need to be removed, or it could be an air leak that needs to be cured and then purged. These work with only a pump on the engine, none in the tank so it's effectively sucking diesel up from the tank, that's why you cannot assume there's no air leak just because there isn't a fuel leak. If it's less than 6 months from purchase, then it's for the dealer to fix.
  3. In that case, "darn" / "fudge" or other words to that effect. I can only suggest removing one/ both and flushing to remove all grease, filtering what comes out and looking for signs of metal. That should clarify whether it's the CV joint, but it will still be difficult to establish whether that's a manufacturing fault or a problem with usage. What puzzles me is the comment about they may not have been lubricated properly, because I'd expect to have to lubricate them before fitting (a sachet of grease supplied with the component).
  4. Unless you are supplying the parts (or have specified therm) then your contract isn't with the supplier of the CV joints, so that bit is down to the mechanic and for him/her to pursue. If the faulty ones are from the same batch then it's not odd for more than one to fail. A faulty CV joint can normally be diagnosed once it's out of the bearing and it can be rotated at various deflections. I would assume that the mechanic has checked the CV joint (the ones that failed despite being new) so would have seen the damaged surfaces in them. My best advice would be to thoroughly check the CV joints that are on the car, and if the surfaces have failed or problems can be found when rotating them, then replace with a different brand (take care as many may be the same factory) and ideally a reputable one.
  5. Does the Puma have projector headlights (you'd see a shaped lens similar to this ) If it has, then there will likely be a shield that provides the cut-off for the beam, one setting will give a flat beam with a little higher bit to the left to illuminate road signs in the UK, and one setting will give a higher bit to the right for France. I don't know for certain whether Ford fitted that for the Puma (it's a good way to make just one part for both markets) but this article in Fordwiki shows the Mondeo (scroll right down and you'll see the images of the lever in question).
  6. If you mean you want Osram but want 6000k colour, then choose "Xenarc Cool blue" rather than "Xenarc Nightbreaker". But, I'd not because the blues simply look different, whereas I think that the the Nightbreakers actually give more visible light and are more suited to human eyes as they're closer to sunlight spectrum.
  7. On the classics that I drive (when I get a chance), the turbos can even glow orange nearly yellow, so don't worry about a bit of red glow.
  8. AndyDC


    What sort of use will the vehicle get? Short drives, town/city use, long-distance only etc? What was the nature of the problem with the Seat's DPF? I'm assuming you mean it sooted up and lacked power etc needing regen by a mechanic, but there are other possible problems so good to know what type of problem.
  9. Another option is Traffic Film Remover (TFR) which is the strong detergent used in "touchless" wash cycles of carwashes. It's a very strong detergent and is designed to loosen the dirt such that when water jets then touch the dirt it's removed more effectively than just the jet itself would manage. It's nasty stuff if it touches your skin etc, you don't want to breath spray of it either. If you have the hose with a decent spray it may be enough to loosen dirt, rather than the bucket method where you cannot avoid physically moving the dirt about before it's removed.
  10. If it started to smoke before you turned on the ignition etc, then I'd suggest you double check the connections are on the right way round (without turning the ignition on). It is possible that there's a problem with the alternator or its rectifier, and the battery and connections are fine, but putting a battery on backwards could damage lots of things including an alternator.
  11. Try a visit to a local motor factors (ideally part of a chain such as EU Linco where the EU actually stands for Exhausts Unlimited, perhaps not Eurocarparts who I'm no lover of) and they'll normally have access to multiple suppliers so may be able to find one that actually supplies them. A visit in person will mean they're more likely to try multiple options and perhaps a few phone calls rather than if you telephone. Edit:It looks as though several manufacturers make them, so it may just be a matter of waiting for stock from the UK distributor to the local motorfctor.
  12. That's probably cheaper than the part of the universal tool which is destroyed when removing them, so a really good cost to get t hem off.
  13. Have you checked the geometry? Not just toe but camber & caster and set-back as these can be detrimental.
  14. Way too many time to list them all, but here's one. I have a few old Lotus cars (not so old as to be valuable, like a 1960s Elite or anything), I was working on one (Excel) , fitting a new headlining which is glued to the roof, it was raining and the car was outside. I get slightly giddy from the fumes, so went indoors, bid on an Esprit on eBay, which I then won.
  15. Take it from somebody who hydrolocked an engine (petrol in that case), you'd have not been going 1/100th mile let alone a mile. I had to wait for breakdown firm, who seemed surprised when i said to just take plugs out while I took out the air filter, we had 30 seconds of a fountain display, then spray WD40 and back together, it started. Pity I forgot my crank breather was the lowest point of the air filter housing, used it for awhile before I realised my "oil" level had gone up. I was lucky and the HG ring failed and went from round to egg-shaped, rather than con rods getting bent etc, but that engine came to a very abrupt stop once water entered the cylinders. You probably had water get somewhere awkward, but some drained and the engine heat dried the rest out.perhaps a little spray of WD40 over the electrics in the engine bay when the engine is cool, just to reduce the chance of water getting in any of those bits in the future.