The_Imaginative_Lad

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About The_Imaginative_Lad

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    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Phillip
  • Ford Model
    Ford Fiesta Zetec Climate
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Nottinghamshire

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  1. So been a little while. Car has been running without a hitch, only one code which keeps coming back. I haven't thrashed it, but I have driven it harder than usual. I suppose the previous breakdown left me a little shaken up and I don't want a repeat of that. I did however take it right to the limiter but only in 1st and no issues, just a huge cloud of smoke oops 😅 This is the code; I have invested in a USB-C to USB adaptor, seems more stable on my mobile than the radio unit. I have reset this multiple times. It doesn't come on if I take a short drive to the shops, but if I take it out on a motorway run or anywhere where I hold speed for a while then it'll reappear. It does say malfunction indicator is on, but nothing is showing on the dashboard and there isn't any indication of the moment this code is logged when driving. I've physically checked the boost sensor (I assume it is the one located mounted to the top left of the air filter housing). I've cleaned the connectors, and sprayed cleaner in the unit but nothing makes a difference to the code being logged. Quick edit: Forget to mention that I tracked a sensor cable with a red plug on the end, the cable itself had deteriorated and was grounding. I wrapped this up, and zip tied it back away from anything. The engine has since ran alot smoother, feels like it has taken 50k miles off the engine lol. I will probably want to invest in a new loom, it has the injectors and glow plugs also attached to it. Even just idling there is a huge improvement:
  2. Checked the multiplug, sprayed contact cleaner on it, there was some corrosion on the connector. Also pulled the connector for the fuel rail sensor and sprayed that. Gonna see what it's like on the road and report back.
  3. Apologies for the later reply. @TomsFocus The fuel filter was replaced in the last 5k miles, I don't know about an engine cut-out (if you could show me where that is to check it out). I stripped back most items all the way to the rocker cover Sat. Checked to see if it blown any injector seals, but all is clean in there. Cleaned out EGR, blanked it. Alot of problems arose from actually unblanking it, it was blanked when I purchased the car and passed an MOT like that so assume its fine to place it back again. Also annoying since I've replaced the EGR not too long ago. Cleaned out the doser valve (I think that's what it is called), the small box after the TDCI logo from the turbo but unlike the AA guy I took it apart and cleaned out stuff that had worked its way into the housing then greased it. My laptop has stopped working, so using the android version of forscan on my radio which seems to work just fine. Purchased the license so I can reset them (see attachments) I'm still sceptical about replacing the fuel lines and sensor as I can't find any at a reasonable price, I keep consulting my haynes manual but still can't locate where the frp is actually located. (the back of the engine??) edit: I'll add this too, probably give you some kind of an idea the conditions in which triggered the original limp from the first post in this thread. Around 3.6/3.7k rpm. Always gotta give these engines a kicking to actually get anywhere
  4. When I ordered the BBfly I literally searched for OBD Ford HS switch and it was the first one to show on Amazon. It does show more in-depth data and can access all modules, and can reset not only the engine management light but also the drivetrain cog to take it out of limp mode. Just so happened that when I broke down I didn't have my laptop with me so had to call AA out for recovery. BBfly was also able to access other features in forscan, such as enabling stuff the car didn't have but now does have. I found a thread somewhere which explained how "As built" data worked and provided a huge excel sheet of codes and what they enabled and which ones would brick the unit depending on the spec of the car, etc. Basically just went through picking out what I wanted, most just dashboard stuff. The most useless item I enabled was dashboard clock but I can't set the time on it as I don't have a factory radio (I assume that's what it would need to set time), unless I reset the battery at mid night or something lol Edit I know I'm sidetracking here, but like this clock. Nobody explains how to set it (image attached to message from YouTube as I'm not going out at 1am to take a picture of the dash lol). Although not important compared to the other problems of the car lol
  5. Good shout for a Fuel Rail Pressure sensor. This is the second time I've had the frp throw a code, which never seems to show on Forscan (windows edition) but rather on a snap on or Bosch system. Where abouts is this sensor located? Is it cleanable or just dead? Maybe @TomsFocus has some experience with this part?
  6. I have forscan and a BBFly with HSCan switch but it doesn't bring up the same amount of codes the AA managed to bring up with a Bosch systems reader. Issue being, I've never had this issue before of it feeling like I've popped an injector or something. The AA reset it, cleaned out a butterfly valve and it runs sweet again, although I'm worried it will happen again. Just wondered if anyone has experience with this combination of codes posted above and what they did to rectify it. I'm at a point of thinking, next pay day part ex it against a new car
  7. Hey, I've made a thread previously about issues I've had with this car, since then its mostly been fixed and its just the clutch that hasn't been touched and is still a bit slippy. Joining the M1 today the car triggered into limp, lost all power and sounded really rough. The part I've manage to recover from the dash cam shows me leaving the m1 and finding a safe place to pull over, if there was a hard shoulder I would've stopped asap. You can hear the engine does not sound right, also apologies for higher revs than I should have but that's the slippy clutch. So initially I thought the engine had blown up, but the AA turned up who reset the management system and cleaned out a butterfly valve which was clogged up on the left of the tdci logo under the bonnet. After this the car ran perfectly, but still recommends I get it checked out even though the vehicle is ok to use. I was sent a bunch of information and codes which I'll share here from his professional ecu reader. Any information about what to check or replace would be appreciated.
  8. Did you find the new injectors to be a new lease of life as to say? With COVID on-going, and an unexpected trip to get my MOT done which cost a bit more than I expected (the 6 month extension I missed out on by 3 days) has meant I've not been able to do any work to the car. I've been nursing it along, but it's really struggling. Seems really down on power, and then eventually just gives up and drops into limp mode. Here I'm not even keeping up with a transit van and that's it going full welly in 2nd gear: I know the 1.4TDCI isn't known as a fast engine, but even for this it's running underpowered. Codes are as before, with turbo overboost being the consistent issue, even with sensors unplugged.
  9. Thanks Zain661, Yeah I've done all I can with the injectors now, only last thing is to recon/buy a new set. I was also conned into it, since the last owner only used back and forth to the shops, which really shown on the first drive back home from buying it. Thick black soot, all cleared off now after some harsh throttle treatment and redex. I thought the juddering would clear off, and it was hardly even that evident then just a little hiccup that did improve slightly to almost non existent and then more recently had gotten worse quickly. Anyway, will give them a call when I can afford to park up the car for a few days. I'll also take a look at finding some compound and polishing it whilst it's idle
  10. Brilliant project, just been reading from start to now. I did see you sent off your injectors to be reconditioned, I know it was a couple of years ago but any chance you still have a phone number for them? I've got a 2008 mk6.5 1.4tdci with Siemons injectors. Got a judder under acceleration which I want to get rectified. I did initially find some injectors, paid for them then got refunded as they never dispatched lol. Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge for recon of 4 injectors? Trying to weigh it up against how many more years I have from the car in line with the government future laws on emissions. Also might get the old machine polisher out of the shed and give it a go on mine, looking very faded and swirled on mine. Turned out great on yours, any tips? I've heard the lacquer on these can be thin. Many thanks, The imaginative lad
  11. Ah ok, I've found some others, re-manufactured for £95 so they look like my best bet. Typically Siemons are soo much more than Bosch variants, plus being Euro4 and not Euro3 also makes them more expensive 😞 Oh well, not too bad considering they'll probably last the lifetime of the engine. Just got to wait for payday now.
  12. @TomsFocus Hey, Thought it's best to tag you as you seem to know what you are talking about. So I've been offered a set of four injectors for £120, plus fitting although they've said they can provide the injectors for me to install either way. Now the issue being, they aren't Siemons and they are for the MK7 70ps engine. Wondering if they are interchangeable? No worries if they aren't I'll just keep looking.
  13. Update: Injectors had an impedance test which they failed, they are supposed to take 100v and they took closer to 40 to 60v across all four which explains the juddering when fueling is needed and they can't deliver. Looking for injector reconditioning as four new / used injectors are still expensive. Issue being the moment I mention they've failed electrically places always say no, been in contact with 4 local places so far. Might be looking at a lost cause by continuing to pursue this. Edit: Additionally the seals are good and there is no chuffing, it's clean (within reason).
  14. Ah would be great if they can be refurbed. Let me know about the popular ones around here. Been to main dealer today Ford Sandicliffe as the Mondeo needed some clips only they could supply and I asked the parts lady about injectors. She said she has never sold any for my car, but a common request are injector copper seals and the rubber o rings. Obviously I'd need new copper seals when I take them out and send em off, price permitting, but interesting to know seals are a common issue. Another thing to note is white smoke on start-up, only noticed it today so must be a new thing. I assume all injector related. I know some say it's condensate but it's definitely white smoke and only on cold start-up. The gearbox, well I would have someone helping me but I also have a board with wheels on it, I could also put a jack on that which might aid that, permitting the car raised enough. I should've asked whilst she had my car loaded up on their system if the clutch was SMF or DMF but guess I'll keep that a surprise 😕 I could ask when I go to get seals as £12 for copper seals and o rings is a good price and direct from Ford.