JPW

So is it just filing the plastic to make it a button and then wire to the pins? Or do you need to mod the circuit board?

Nice. Any way to get the locking LED on it?

Also if you want DAB double check as most say it supports DAB but it's not built in, you have to buy an additional box for it to work.

Def don't buy from Ford and pay that much. As long as you find a compatible screen online (eBay) it's a simple swap, 10 min job. Is it the 5" screen and do you have SYNC 1 or 1.1? James

Yep, really pleased with it. As I have enabled auto lock via Focccus, it lights up as soon as the car drives away and pressing it toggles the lock/unlock There is plenty of room under that little compartment for the switch and wiring. It's a 19mm version. I just spliced wires 2 and 6 from the FCIM and tapped in to the ground from the 12v socket next to it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07GLPBPPZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Here is the pic of the LED switch I installed and wired up for the door lock function. Unlocked (off) and Locked (red)

Should be ok if driving ok. Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. Everything looked fine, and drive fine without knowing all the coolant had leaked from that horrible thin plastic pipe. The only way I discovered the leak is because the coolant leaked on to somewhere hot and it made a burny smell under the bonnet that I could smell when I got out the car. Pipe replaced and no leak since. The garage said I was very lucky, another few miles and it might have severely damaged the engine.

Anyone know when F9 map update will be released?

Yeah, it does go off after about 15 mins...

Looks like it does similar to the 12v socket. Stays on a short while before properly going off. Went out another few minutes after and it was properly off. Couldit be to do with the fact I spliced the ground front the front 12v socket (as I mounted it close by)? Would have thought ground is ground... The positive supply comes from the BCM through for the LED lock status...

Fitted and working 🙂 There is a very faint led coming through to the button when the doors are unlocked, and then it fully illuminates when doors are locked. Pushing the button toggles correctly. Slightly concerned that this very faint LED light stays on when car is locked externally and you walk away. Checked 10 mins later and still on. Hoping it won't drain the battery. Strange that any signal is getting through when the car is totally off and youve locked up. Thoughts? I can't remember whether the original radio fascia LED lock button stayed lit after locking the car with the key... James

Best of luck!

Is common definitely to ground and not live? Is this so no 12v signal is pushed down the wire when you press the button?

So, I've purchased this 12v momentary switch: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GLPBPPZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and plan to mount it in the car someplace. I have 3 wires from the car - Central locking LED status indicator (originally from FCIM 2) Door lock/unlock signal (originally from FCIM 6) Ground (spliced from from FCIM 5) What I want is to wire the door lock/unlock signal to the button press and the central locking LED status indicator wire to the LED light on the switch so that it's only on when the car is locked. On the old radio fascia, I presume it just sends power down the central locking LED status indicator when the car is locked... I also have a ground wire. Can anyone confirm the pin out?

Any reverse camera should work as long as it has an RCA connector, though you'd need to run a long RCA cable from front to back, if your car doesn't already have the reverse camera wiring in place. Regarding the harness on the USB hub, you technically only need the power connector that's plugged in to the hub itselfand then follow my guide to join the two wires coming out of that with two wires the sync connector for Hub Power and Hub Gnd, plus the usb cable you purchase.