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About fullwavebridge

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  1. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORTE-ADVANCED-DIESEL-TREATMENT-FORMULA-CAR-FUEL-ADDITIVE-CLEANER-400ml/264943502699?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Thats the cheapest i found, never used the seller. I wanted to use him if i could collect as i think he is on industrial estate down road from me, contacted him requesting to add option to collect but still waiting. Otherwise the nearest garage to me charges £17 for 400ml Not saying that this will sort your problems, but it cleans both my dervs out very well.
  2. Sorry i have not had this issue but can only offer advice on your primary diagnosis based on my 35 years experience as an electronics engineer. Think i would be checking alternator output / battery voltage first when this problem occurs. I suggest that because as you say when switching lights on main beam, they draw quite a bit of current, which will cause a volt drop from the battery supply. The reason it isn't as bad on sidelights is due to not drawing as much current hence a lower line volt drop. If you have resoldered the terminals, i would have cleaned them first, al
  3. redex is useless i found, FORTE does the magic for me.
  4. Never had injector problems on mine (YET) I had a read up via google and the results were shocking regarding this or similar issues. After a read up on the subject i think i would ensure all pipes / hoses (Inc EGR) that were removed are securely refitted, as well as any electrical connectors. Or i would visit a good diesel mechanic, or take it back to whoever did the first job. People may laugh at this but i am a big fan of the forte fuel / injector cleaner, my mk4 astra est and my 1.4tdci fusion run like new after putting this stuff in the fuel system. Also have a loo
  5. Never had anything to do with these on my fusion, but i did on my 4x4 suzuki a few years ago. After looking up the subject in more detail, i believe this is the lambda sensor, similar size of a spark plug with 3 wires fed to it. Apparently it is attached to the exhaust manifold or the down pipe before the cat. I suspect the fiestas and pugs will be the same - if same engine is used. I was reading that there were issues with water running from the windscreen onto the sensor plug, as well as fuse for it being blown. I do know that the sensor has a heater element inside it.
  6. I have a 2005 1.4tdci plus model Adrian, mine does 55mpg, easy enough to repair, service etc. I get approx 400 miles to a tank of fuel. £250 is a bargain especially with one lady owner and service history. It will need cambelt, water pump, tensioner / idler doing soon if it hasn't already. Have you the hidden compartment under the passenger seat , base of seat lifts up to reveal. I found 2 pairs of headphonesand the remote control in mine - for the dvd player on my cars ceiling.
  7. Get a few quotes, find out what your garages charge for labour. Also ask if the new cv boot will be an all in one or a split n glue type, the latter will be cheaper to fit as i believe that one can be done without strippping the driveshaft from the hub.
  8. Update on this one, EAC fail appearing was due to alternator control cables being rotten and corroded - battery voltage 11.4v, replaced the 3 pin connector and rewired got rid of the message with alternator now running at 14.5v, however car still in limp mode which was the MAF sensor at fault. No fault codes appeared on the obd scanner, but it is an old one which is due to be replaced with a better / modern one.
  9. Eventually got back to this issue, mine was caused by the 3 pin control plug on alternator being corroded, there should be 12v on one of the pins with the ignition on but car not running. Mine had nothing measured, linked back to (fuse 28) behind glovebox - 3.5a open circuit. Caused by the bad connection. replaced connector, cleaned up pins on alternator plug - has restored voltage to 14.2v Note, if you replace the plug and the fuse is blown, the battery warning light will now illuminate on the instrument cluster. Mine didn't do this initially with the old connector as it was so badl
  10. Maybe try posting in the focus section ?
  11. I would use my meter set on ohms (continuity) and read between the aerial connections on cable to the aerial connections. Bit of an ***** of a job. maybe corrosion on aerial point on roof etc, if water gets into the cable it can rot causing open circuit.
  12. look at the fuse panel id card and see if there is a fuse for them i suppose ? only problem i imagine is that if there is there may be on a supply that is linked to something else possibly.
  13. At tom says above belt, however i just had mine replaced but i bought a kit inc water pump, idler and tensioner. Also i would suggest that the aux belt is replaced at the same time, coolant will be replenished when cambelt / water pump is replaced. I used a dayco brand, used that brand on my vauxhall last year as well as my previous car before that.
  14. 2005 1.4tdci JU On way to work yesterday - lost the will to accelerate, eac fail appeared. Pulled over turned everything off, removing key - waited for a few min restarted and continued 20 miles to work without any issues. leaving work, it re-occured 3 or 4 times but limped home. See plenty of info online regarding throttle body, wiring, connectors, pedal etc to look at and diagnose. However i noticed last week alternator is also on way out (after monitoring voltage) - is it possible alternator voltage fluctuation can cause eac to appear ? Note, probably a coinci
  15. Thanks for the info Oggy. Interesting issue, do you suspect your alternator wasn't at fault after all ? I do have a slight issue with my 2005 1.4tdci, at times alternator charge voltage is 14.2v, but when monitored with voltmeter, at 15 seconds intervals it drops for a second down to 12v, there is a slight change in idling and then loops back to normal. I suspect mine is a failing regulator in alternator - but if mine uses same connector then it may be worth a look.
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