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fullwavebridge

Budding Enthusiast
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About fullwavebridge

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Trev
  • Ford Model
    fusion
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. At tom says above belt, however i just had mine replaced but i bought a kit inc water pump, idler and tensioner. Also i would suggest that the aux belt is replaced at the same time, coolant will be replenished when cambelt / water pump is replaced. I used a dayco brand, used that brand on my vauxhall last year as well as my previous car before that.
  2. 2005 1.4tdci JU On way to work yesterday - lost the will to accelerate, eac fail appeared. Pulled over turned everything off, removing key - waited for a few min restarted and continued 20 miles to work without any issues. leaving work, it re-occured 3 or 4 times but limped home. See plenty of info online regarding throttle body, wiring, connectors, pedal etc to look at and diagnose. However i noticed last week alternator is also on way out (after monitoring voltage) - is it possible alternator voltage fluctuation can cause eac to appear ? Note, probably a coinci
  3. Thanks for the info Oggy. Interesting issue, do you suspect your alternator wasn't at fault after all ? I do have a slight issue with my 2005 1.4tdci, at times alternator charge voltage is 14.2v, but when monitored with voltmeter, at 15 seconds intervals it drops for a second down to 12v, there is a slight change in idling and then loops back to normal. I suspect mine is a failing regulator in alternator - but if mine uses same connector then it may be worth a look.
  4. Thank the group, not me - it's the members who contribute, building on tips and feedback. Glad it's sorted, thanks for letting us know the outcome. Best regards.
  5. Could be a number of causes, is it a whistling or whining ? Are you sure it is not wind hitting the car in a certain place at above a certain speed ? If you are sure it is coming from the engine bay then it could be a bad hose seal on air intake area, air filter cover not tightened down correctly, fusions do have a hose that wears n splits (i think it is under the battery tray, could be related to something else i read once) ? i haven't had that myself but have heard of the issue. Check all hoses on air intake side, turbo etc, if you think it's not in engine bay then check body
  6. If it is this and you can't get the part over the christmas break, use a strong tyerap over the peg end as a temp fix.
  7. Heard of this problem and not happened to myself yet.... possibly this ? but i thought this problem caused no clutch operation whatsoever. https://www.askthemechanic.co.uk/shop/ford-fusion/26-ford-fusion-clutch-pedal-repair-clipcollar-kit-e-0744881752510.html
  8. If one common return for both sides has gone open circuit then yes John that's probably the reason. As i previously mentioned mine has failed completely, i just get the car running for 5 min before i finish work at 3am ! Many more little jobs to do to mine, just had cambelt,water pump, aux belt replaced at 120k, i prefer my vaux astra 1.7dti but prefer the £30 ford road tax !
  9. If you disconnected the meter should be on current (Amps) not voltage range if measuring in line. I think you should accept that the screen is u/s, if all checks have been carried out and you have voltage present at the terminals.
  10. Mine is now non operational John, it was ok 3 years ago but slowly failed from just half screen to only a few elements working. Again all my fuses - relay etc ok, just put it down to end of it's life and come to the conclusion in my case a new windscreen is required. Probably down to moisture ingress but tbh i do have the screen delaminating in the corners which is a bad sign. After reading up on the ford heated screen via the usual search engines, it is not an uncommon issue. Only way to replace economically would be via insurance should something hit the screen....
  11. Needs plugging into diagnostics for error codes. However i would be looking at crank sensor, my 1.4tdci MAF sensor failed but only went into limp mode. I have had exactly same issue on my 2003 1.7dti mk4 astra, that was EDU that threw up p code for spill valve / fuel pump - fortunately it is a known issue and was easily fixable with a soldering iron and fresh lead solder.
  12. My 55 plate 1.4tdci abs pump failed, i replaced it with a used unit via ebay. Straight swap in my case and no coding required. Had a right job finding the correct one for mine at the time, and a bit awkward to replace from the bulkhead.
  13. Not my primary subject, however i would suggest fuel filter or a fuel injector issue for starters. I do not think this is a glow plug issue imo, Has the car been serviced etc Barbara ? TBH without seeing it, it could be a number of things causing it.
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