Kevin#95

Budding Enthusiast
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    171
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About Kevin#95

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Kevin
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta
  • Ford Year
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

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  1. The dc/dc convertor low is something that might not be linked to the starting problem. It just might be the nee fuel filter is bad and restricting the flow, or there might be some air stuck in the line. Can you put the old filter back on to test it?
  2. Kevin#95

    Abs

    The sensors pickup signals as the magnetic ring on the rear hub spins around. It might be water getting into the connectors that's causing the problem. Unplug the connectors and spray wd40 on them. That should push the water out. Or, like John says you can use forscan to read the signals on each wheel. You can show 4 graphs for the speed of each wheel as you drive. The graphs should all look the same.
  3. Did the same today. Was quoted 386 after taking my daughter off my insurance. I told them I was quoted 179 using a comparison site, which pointed to them as the insurer. They said the best they could do was 286. I said that was no good and was just about to cancel when the line went dead - it was nearly 5pm and the company closed. I will call them tomorrow and check it has been cancelled. Then I will go through the comparison site from now on. It's a shame you don't get rewarded for being loyal.
  4. On my fiesta 2004 at 80000 miles the clutch started slipping above 50 mph. The bite point was a about 3 inches above the floor and the pedal was stiff to press. The garage fitted a new clutch and release slave cylinder. The first thing I noticed was the bite point was near the floor and the pedal felt soft. This is normal for new clutches. As the clutch wears the bite point gets higher and the pedal feels stiffer.
  5. Darren, you need to buy an obd2 code reader and plug it in to check what the code is. Get one that allows you to clear the fault code after you've check what causes it.
  6. Ouch. You will need to change the dual mass flywheel along with the clutch. Also change the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel.
  7. The flywheel should be OK. The clutch plate with cover housing and concentic slave cylinder get changed as a kit. The release bearing is in the slave cylinder.
  8. I think you need a new release bearing and clutch. The release bearing is failing and vibrating noise through the clutch housing.
  9. My daughter drives our 1.25 as a new driver. It's more than fast enough. New drivers can lose their license if the get caught speeding and get 6 point. This includes texting while driving. The first 2 years you must stick to the speed limits and don't have you phone on while driving. I'm now passing it onto her as it still drives well.
  10. Check the oil drain plug is tight at the bottom of the sump. A 13mm spanner clockwise and hand tight should be enough. Also, clean under the engine with a damp soapy rag so it is clean and dry, and you can then see where the oil is coming from. Don't forget to clean the oil filter and try turning it by hand clockwise to check it's tight. Use jacks under the car for safety and a strong light will help.
  11. When my clutch started to fail I noticed ithe car would not gain speed on the dual carriageway when trying to go over 40mph. The engine revs went up but the speed stayed at 40. I could pull away in low gear at junctions without any problems. When the new clutch was fitted it felt softer and the bit point was close to the floor.
  12. Check the connector that plugs into the throttle body on the engine. Unplug the connector and spray both parts with wd40 and plug it back in. These connectors can get dirty contacts and cause judder problems. You might find the connector under the inlet manifold. I had this problem for years before finding what caused it. Lift up the red tab and pull the connector off from the base. Do not clean the pins with cotton buds or they will bend. My car now drives like new. I ended up soldering the wires and throwing the connector away.
  13. Good point. The car does look good and worth the money.
  14. As well as the timing belt you might want to check if the clutch has been replaced. If the clutch pedal bit point is high off the floor and feels stiff to press then it is the original clutch. My clutch started stipping at 80000 miles and when it was replaced the pedal bite pint was close to the floor and softer to press down. A timing belt and clutch replacement will set you back around £700. Might be worth spending that on a car with lower milage.
  15. I agree that if you follow Tom's advice there is a good chance the fault will be fixed. The abs has an electronic board in it and it might just have a dry joint, but changing it for a used one is the best option and a lot cheaper than 2k.