Kevin#95

Budding Enthusiast
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About Kevin#95

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Kevin
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta
  • Ford Year
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire

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  1. Yes. The downstream O2 sensor 2 could read wrong. See what the garage say.
  2. They should have test drove the car and would have noticed the sensor was showing a fault. A good garage would replace it without any fuss. A bad garage would say nothing and let the customer drive it away. Probably the sensor go knocked when they changed the clutch and gearbox. I had a power steering sensor damaged when my clutch was changed. It later failed the mot due to a leak around the sensor. The mot garage said the sensor got knocked when the clutch was changed and had been leaking for sometime. It cost me £100 to fix it. There are 2 sensors upstream and downstream. An obd2 code reader would show you what one was faulty. And you could check the sensor voltages to see it working. If the garage try and charge you for fixing the problem I would look at going somewhere else to get it fixed.
  3. St 150 gear selector stiff. This is a common problem and caused by the pivot pin that the plate moves on. The hole in the plate and the pin get warm and become hard to move. When you push the gear stick the cables move the plate about. You need to get the car jacked up on axle stands and take the clipped cover off under the engine gearbox. Pull the 2 gear cables off the plate and take the circlip off the pin (do not lose it). Take the plate off and use wet and dry to sand the pin down a bit. Grease the pin and put the plate back on so it moves freely and has a little bit of play in it. This is an easy job for a mechanic to do. There are YouTube videos on it.
  4. Try cleaning the connector that plugs into the throttle position sensor. Unplug it and spray wd40 onto the pins, spray both parts of the connector. Intermittent electrical connections on the tps could cause these problems.
  5. If you buy tunnelrat obd2 USB reader and connect it to a windows laptop you can run diagnostic checks that check the gem to see what the switches and relays are doing. This might be a good place to start to see what signals are coming out of the general electric module. I have only just brought one and am learning how to use it. I do remember seeing it display the states of the switches and relays to wipers and indicators, etc. You can also read the programming codes from the modules and save them to your computer, in case you need to use them on new parts.
  6. I had a problem where the steering had a little bit of slack in it. There was a little bit of play before the steering responded. Also the car seemed to pull a little to one side when the brakes were applied with no hands on the wheel. The lower front wishbone that connects the suspension to the wheel and track rod was worn out. Replacing this fixed the problems, the car steering is much better. Try braking with your hands holding the wheel very lightly and see if it pulls to one side. Could be worn out joints on the wishbone, left or right.
  7. If you want a good cheap one buy the creader 3001 for £20 I have an ancel ad410 that is good for £40 and very easy to use. I've just brough a tunnelrat obd2 with USB connection. It plugs into a windows laptop running free download software. It is a little more difficult to use, but has more feature to diagnose faults and you can save your cars data from the programmed modules. You can then reprogram modules later if you need to replace them, rather than have a garage charge hundreds of pounds to do it if the fit a part that needs programming.
  8. The most likely source of the noise is the tappets when the engine is cold. When the oil warms up the oil pressure pushes the oil up thr tappets to the top and forms a cushion layer under the lifters. So it's a little bit noisy when the engine is cold and should be quieter when warmed up. So this is nothing to worry about and normal. Changing the oil every year using good quality oil to Ford specifications is important. Some people listen to the noises by putting a metal rod on the engine and holding your ear against it, like a stethescope. I'm still planning to upgrade to one soon once things get back to normal.
  9. What colour is the smoke? If you are having trouble starting and when it runs it drives ok but gives white smoke, it could be a blown head gasket. Coolant is leaking into one of the cylinders and coming out as white smoke.
  10. It might be a noise coming from the fuel combusting in the cylinders. Or it could be mechanical. Try using the more expensive fuel to see if it runs quieter. The 1.25 engine has good reliability. It might be yours is just a bit noisier than normal. I'm thinking of buying one for my next car, so I am going to be looking into this issue. I would be interested to know if the noise is due to a a problem, or is just normal.
  11. Also worth cleaning the contacts on the throttle position sensor connector. Just unplug the connector and spray some wd40 on the connector pins, this could cause this problem and be very intermittent. A sticking valve would cause the paper to suck towards the exhaust, but would not be so intermittent.
  12. Could be a sticking exhaust valve. When it is warmed up put a flap of tissue paper neat the exhaust, if it flaps back on forth it might be caused by the value sticking. If it is not sticking the paper should be blown away from the exhaust at all times.
  13. Agree. A clamp meter is the safest way to measure the parasitic current. Make sure it can read mA. This together with reading across the fuses with a meter set to mV is the best way.
  14. When using the meter make sure to put the red meter wire in the correct place. Use 10 Amps socket on the meter for measuring amps. If later using the meter to measure voltage, put the red lead in the Volts socket of the meter. Never measure voltage on the meter with the red wire connected to the Amps socket. A quicker test you can do without disconnecting the battery or pulling fuses is to set the meter to measure mV, and with the red meter lead connected to Volts. Measure across each fuse at the metal bits on its top, while it is still plugged in. With the ignition off and all lights off and doors shut. If the fuse is carrying current (parasitic), it will have a few millivolts across it. So a fuse not carrying current should read around 1mV. A fuse leaking parasitic current could show around 5mV or so.
  15. If the old battery was dead the computer might have shut the starting down. If the new battery was connected it might have old data in its memory that prevents it starting. Try disconnecting the negative battery lead and leave it off for 1 hour. Then connect it back up. Leave it for 10 minutes and then click the ignition on for 10 mins. Then turn it off and back on and try starting it. Probably wont fix it but worth a try.