Mark81

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mark81

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mark
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus Titanium MK3 1.6TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Makes sense the wires are close to the exhaust so heat transfer from the dpf...mine was a decent battery but no tube for the breather...I wonder if the regen process cooks the battery and makes it leak...like I said in an earlier post bonnet prop gave me a blister after regen so battery must be warm as well
  2. Yeah it won’t do a regen with this fault because the valve is meant to close slightly during the process so the ECU says no haha Should drive better as well not as juddery
  3. I think it’s because the blue and green wire and yellow and purple are intertwined and end up on the outside of the loom where the zip tie/plugs are too tight mine took battery acid to help but my brother said the combination of vibration and the clips being too tight causes in on transits...
  4. No worries mate same wire as well strange that ain’t it...should do a regen now as well happy days.
  5. Does anyone know how I can add another member to this forum? His user name is Beam99. Thanks
  6. Hi I replied to your question a few days ago but now it doesn’t seem to be on here how strange, i only looked because another member from a different part of the forum asked if I ever got my car repaired because they have the same problem. Anyway I’ll just reply again you guys all helped me out so it’s the least I can do...the acid was visible in the battery box and where it entered the wiring loom but wasn’t on the outside of the loom behind the gear box where it was sat inside the loom rotting the wires that’s because it’s tightly sealed with tape and ties which have lugs that attach the the back of the gear box and the actual break was where those clip/ties are pulled really tight almost crushing the plastic outer part of the loom, my brother/mechanic did say this is a common fault on ford transits without any battery leak just the vibration and sheer tightness of the ties is enough to cause wiring issues. Cheers
  7. Hi there hope you are all well. I just wanted to update you on the issue with my car. After checking the ECU connectors then back probing each wire connected to the throttle valve with the help of the wiring diagram thanks https://www.fordownersclub.com/profile/72624-tdci-peter/ ....we found no continuity from the VGRD wire to the motor on the throttle body which obviously indicated a broken wire. After tracing the wire and pulling the wiring loom apart we found the problem, acid from the battery breather has leaked and run down the wiring loom and sat at the lowest point behind the gear box (which isn’t much fun to get to to be honest) and eaten away the insulation on several wires but has actually broken that wire where the clips that secure the loom in position are pulled tight (probably a bit too tight to be fair) Anyway after replacing that wire and putting the car back together the throttle valve responds as it should at key off for the first time in 6 or so months. I’ve run the relearn procedure using forscan and thought I’d give the static regen a go which took 50 mins but was also successful although I burnt my finger on the bonnet prop after, the car is now repaired apart from the next mission of removing the gear box to replace several wires which are a bit dodgy. Again thanks for the input it was very helpful. Cheers
  8. Ok I really appreciate this feedback my brother works in electronics so i will show him this information...I think he will know how to back probe and run the tests now you have provided such detailed information and the wiring diagram. Again many thanks
  9. So the 2 yellow/purple are V+ and VGRD going by the wiring diagram so that would make the grey and the blue/white the motor control and the green/blue VOUT if I’m reading it correctly...so checking the resistance is correct for each should confirm if any of the wires are broken. I also read somewhere cracked/bad soldering on the instrument cluster can cause problems like this...I’m trying not to think the worst in that the ECU has had it. Cheers
  10. Ok thanks...so when you say open circuit does that mean the wire could be broken or rubbed through and touching metal for example? If it is a faulty driver in the ECU does that mean a replacement ECU is required? I really hope that isn’t the case as your talking thousands and the car itself is only worth around 3. Heres to hoping broken motor drive wire! Cheers
  11. Sorry just seen you did say from a MK3 Cheers
  12. Will this be the same as mine is a MK3? Cheers
  13. That’s greatly appreciated will perform wiring tests and hopefully get my car back to it old self. Thanks again...