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About MasterTechTip

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  1. You are correct in saying they seize themselves in. The way I get them out unfortunately requires a ramp, but I get under the car with a long pry bar and hammer the underneath of it to free it off.
  2. It's a very common problem, usually you have to take the intake pipe off and undo the snapped part with the nut on using a socket/spanner and some sort of grips and then to get the snapped stud out by just using grips. You can buy a new stud from ford for a couple of quid. Sorry I don't know the part number.
  3. If it's a 1 litre ecoboost they do have a tapping characteristic almost like a typewriter constantly going off.
  4. Only thing I can add to the list is make sure the fuel pump cassette gaskets are checked as they have a habit of leaking oil at the moment. With the car on the ramp look directly above the gearbox to the underneath of the fuel pump, if it's leaking it will be pretty obvious, usually there's oil down the back of the gearbox.
  5. Hard to say, those DTCs suggest a communication error to the power steering module. I haven't had a lot of luck with these reconditioned racks from other companies. Out of the 3 or 4 I've had in and fitted none of them have worked and ended up putting a genuine rack on which fixed the issue.
  6. Ford recommends checking, measuring and replacing the valve tappets at 125,000 miles so why the cambelt isn't done at the same time is stupid. That means in another 25,000 miles your engine has to be stripped apart all over again for the belt!
  7. If they are slightly loose and just making bad contact I don't think a code will be logged, also this will be very intermittent like you say, sometimes it will be fine, other times it could take ages to start. The AA jumping it with another battery could have just been coincidence. It could just be a bad battery but it's worth checking the other things first before spending money
  8. If they've had the gearbox out its worth checking the wiring on starter motor is connected properly and also the main earth strap that bolts on to the gearbox is tight. These would both be giving you starting issues.
  9. so your hoses look fine but if you zoom right in on the first picture I'm pretty certain I can see broken wires and copper strands frayed out. Definitely get that tape off!
  10. If it's stuck down you've either got a hydraulic leak in the pipe or at the slave cylinder. Or there's the possibility of the system sucking in air at the master cylinder.
  11. As long as your gearbox has been serviced then I'd recommend running the transmission service functions. A shift fork learn and a clutch learn. This will basically reteach the gearbox how to work properly. It can probably only be carried out by your dealer. I do not know if other diagnostic equipment can run this function.
  12. If been like it from new, only things I can think of is it's either the standard map on these vehicles and thats the reason you've felt multiple cars do it. Possibly the A/C compressor cutting in and out to give engine more power on acceleration. (I used to feel this on my 1.25 as it wasn't a very powerful car I could tell the difference). If the A/C is off does it still do it? As it's a diesel it could be the EGR opening and closing, never known this to cause this issue though. If it's stuck open then you'll have hardly any power at all. That's all I can think of for this vehicle/engine. If you've noticed it on other vehicles and they're not "faulting" either I'd sway more towards its just how they run
  13. I'd do a leak off test on the injectors, if they are faulty and leaking off too much it can cause loss of power without logging any codes.
  14. Looks okay does the bonnet shut alright? There are quite a lot of different intakes about so they all fit slightly different. Some of them face downwards and sit under the passenger headlight.