Dread91

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Dread91

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Richy
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2011
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cheshire
  1. So took some recordings, and tbh they don't do the sound justice but you can hear it. Drive to the shops from cold start... After the shop visit, just on an open stretch... And stand still revving at the end of journey... (sorry misses had to film just over my leaking injector seal... cant get the staff) If I'm being honest it only sounds worrying to me when doing 70+ on the motorway, the whine is just constant.
  2. I guess I could take some video recordings if that would help?
  3. So unfortunately the dongle I borrowed wouldn't connect to my car so I'm going to have to order a new laptop battery or a wireless forscan lead. However I did manage to take the car up and down the motorway but I just couldn't get it to throw a fault code. If I create a bit of noise whilst driving like with the window slightly open, then you wouldn't think there was anything wrong with the car. It's just that horrid whine which makes me nervous because it sounds like something is just gonna blow up at any moment.
  4. Yeah mine has about the same amount of play side to side as that of the video. I didn't feel any play in and out though. Did watch a few videos of whining turbos and mine doesnt sound as bad as most of the ones I saw, so some hopefully promising news. Didn't manage to take it on the motorway this evening as my closest junction has been closed. But I managed to get hold of a bluetooth obd dongle but it's not a forscan, just one with an app for the phone. Will do a motorway run tomorrow with it plugged in. What parameters am I looking to log? Anything to do with boost pressure?
  5. @Tizer Just done what you suggested and yes there is play in the shaft but we are taking millimetres. Whould that play be causing the whine? If so can it be repaired or is the damaged done? Thanks Dread
  6. I have had it for about 3 years but it has sat for 2 years not being used as it had this overboosting problem and I had another car to use at the time so didn't need to run the two. I used it for about a year and in that time did about 15k (mostly motorway) I'm no expert but the turbo doesn't look like a factory turbo, I did look around it and couldn't see Garrett anywhere. Just been out and swapped the washers, one is now below thanks
  7. So that whining means I'm going to need a new turbo anyway in the near future? I will have a phone around to see if there is anyone I can borrow something off but whilst I wait I'll still see of I can get it to throw a code on the motorway once the misses is home. Also whilst I was having a mess around with the turbo I noticed that the banjo bolt where the leak was coming from had 2 washers above the pipe, is that correct or should one be below the pipe?
  8. Would a worn turbo from insufficient oil pressure cause the over and underboost? Or is that just the reason for the noise? I'll take it for a run up the motorway this evening to see of I can force it.
  9. Update... Went back out this morning for a test drive and still no power, 3000 revs only but still no codes. So I decided to go back and re adjust the screw that changes the distance the actuator arm can travel. First thing I noticed was the connector that the actuator arm goes on was a fair bit stiff this time around until I worked it up and down a few times and it became smooth and free again (possible intermittent sticky vanes?) Adjusted the screw and put everything back together, went for a drive and the power has returned. I didn't get any warnings or lights and no codes stored. Do I just continue to use the car as normal until I get fault codes again? Or is it worth stripping the turbo for a clean? Also I'm still left with a whine/siren noise, in the lower gears where changing gears is quicker, it almost sounds like a police siren and then in the higher gears (motorway) it's just a constant whine. Thanks Dread
  10. So just been under the bonnet, checked all the hoses around the turbo and intercooler for splits and couldn't see any. The only thing I could see was the metal pipe that goes to the intercooler had a fair bit of rust but couldn't see any holes of any kind. I unhooked the actuator arm and tested the area it connects to for movement, I could move it easily but noticed it didn't travel far and from what i have read on the internet is that it should move more than a half inch? It can move all the way down because it physically cant go any further as it hits an adjustable screw but as for up I can only assume it goes all the way because it meets the height of the actuator arm. As I took the plastic cover off the engine the first thing I noticed when I looked at the turbo was that there was a lot of fresh oil and gunky oil around the actuator. Also when I was testing the movement of the actuator connector I noticed that the pipe that runs in front of it was easily moved side ways and that the large Allen key on top was barely hand tight. So what I have done so far is tighten that Allen key up so the pipe cant move (I'm assuming the oil was coming from there) and have adjusted the screw that stops the actuator from travelling down so that the distance it can move is about half inch... Took the car for a spin and now it has no power what do ever, I have managed to make it worse. I drove for about 10 minutes to try and make the car throw a code, got back home and plugged the scanner in and nothing, no codes Anyone have any ideas? Thanks again Dread
  11. It's a 110. Can I test to see if they are stuck with the turbo still on the car? Thanks
  12. Going to get under the bonnet today and check all the pipes, so fingers crossed I find something. My fuel filter is in need of changing and i do have one already to put in but would a clogged one cause an overboost/underboost code to show?
  13. Unfortunately I have to keep my laptop plugged in because the battery is knackered so I cant drive and test. Are there any specific places I should be checking for leaks?
  14. Sorry one last thing, I ran live data of the maf and map sensors. Maf looked all okay to me (again no expert) but the map was running around 100kpa at idle and rose to to 106kpa when snapping the throttle, then dropping to 90kpa before going back to 100kpa. That's doesn't sound correct to me, so maybe a bad map sensor or something causing that reading (assuming it is a bad reading) Thanks again Dread
  15. Looking for some advice on an overboost and underboost problem on my mk2.5 1.6 tdci. Was driving down the motorway when I had an engine malfunction warning come up on the led display. Lost all power and couldn't go faster than 40mph (guessing limp mode) but no EML light. Got of the motorway and turned the car off and on again, car was back to normal. Just before I got back home the EML came on but not loss of power. I plugged the car into forscan and read the codes P0234 overboost and P0299 underboost. The only other information I can give is that I can hear a faint whistle/whine noise from the engine bay, I'm no expert but it almost sounds like a leak maybe to me. Other than that I know I have a leaking injector 1 seal if that could be the problem? Any advice would be much appreciated thank you . Dread