Shahman

Budding Enthusiast
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    13
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About Shahman

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Kiran
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 TDCi
  • Ford Year
    2014
  • UK/Ireland Location
    London

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  1. Hi all, I've been chasing a fault in my car for 3 weeks now - I've discovered the R12 Engine Control Relay is randomly triggering when the car is switched off - this is causing the alarm to go off and draining the battery. Can anyone help me idenifty where the ECU is on a mk3 ford focus 1.6Tdci? Where any grounding lugs could be? Or any way to identify what is causing the R12 to trigger? Thanks!
  2. Sorry yes I meant the R16 relay. I do not have a R15 for some reason although I do ha e rear defrost on my car... Does anyone know what the KL15 relay is in the BCM is?
  3. Anyone willing to check or know what the voltage readings of the pins in R15 ignition relay wrt to ground are? Im suspecting a ground fault or something... I looked at the wiring diagrams but couldnt make much sense were the pins were going... And is there a cable loom under the fusebox in a mk3? cant find the cable that connects the relay to the battery... anyone good with these wiring diagrams? I understand 14K733 is the engine bay cable loom - and C1BB01-A/B are the terminations to the eyelets for the prefusebox but I cant find what C1BP02D is... My next check will be KL15 RELAY CTRL in the BCM- that might be haywire...
  4. Hi all, I'm making a new post because I no longer suspect a battery drain triggering my car alarm. However I'm still having something trigger my alarm erratically and a I do have a drained battery. Now I suspect the alarm is draining the battery when it is going off constantly. As i've carried out parasitic drain tests and not found any drain occuring. I've even replaced the battery to no avail. New findings: OBD2 Alarm Trigger cause history: 'Start Attempt' OBD2 DTCs of concern: PCM U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus P086E - Neutral Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent/Erratic [?] P086D - Neutral Position Sensor A Circuit High [?] P086E - Neutral Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent/Erratic [?] OBDii U0001 - High Speed CAN Communication Bus [Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed] BCMii B10A2 - Crash Input [General Signal Failure] B10E7 - Ignition On Relay [Circuit Short To Battery] B10E7 - Ignition On Relay [Circuit Short To Ground Or Open] U0131 - Lost Communication With Power Steering Control Module A U0151 - Lost Communication With Restraints Control Module U0010 - Medium Speed CAN Communication Bus [Bus Off] I've checked the R15 relay in the fusebox - it seems to be fully operational as intended. Where else should i look, or any idea as to what these faults could mean? I'd attached the fully OBD2 DTC report. Thanks again! DTCs 31072020 .txt
  5. Hi Paul I get 14.5v with the engine running - so i think the alternator is good charging Reset the BMS both ways through forscan and manually Possibly the new battery is dud - but unlikely? Checking the OBD2 codes i have an: Igintion Relay fault - Short circuit to ground Which lines up with my Alarm trigger cause history: Start Attempt This could be why my alarm keeps going off - and the alarm is what is draining my battery not a parasitic drain... But i've checked the relay and its operating fine.... although one of the pins in the relay holder reads 1.2V respect to ground AND positive on the battery,,,, The rest all read 0 wrt ground and 12.3 wrt positive. No idea if this is normal... Another peice of information - my Auto Start/Stop has not been functioning since a gearbox refurb last year. not sure if this ties in at all.... I'm going to make a new post becuase i no longer suspect its a battery drain - and hopefully someone with an idea of the OBD2 codes / Ignition wiring can help.
  6. I've got simillar problems but on a mk3 - check your battery, if its low it could be causing your alarm to go off
  7. Quick update: The dashcam shuts off after 20 mins - so it's just the slight delay on the 12v cigarette lighter port... Redone the battery drain test with the ammeter croc clipped onto the battery and waited 30 mins and the current draw falls down to 0.033A when locked... So surprisingly nothing seems to be draining the battery???!? Now I'm completely lost... Brand new battery, flat within 3 days... No battery drain. Help!?
  8. Hey John, I did check Forscan for the PID for the alarm trigger they all said 'Start Attempt' or something like that - but i couldnt find anything online to what that means I have reset the BCM through Forscan and manually to no effect - even Forscan recognised the battery was 0 days old. Thanks for the help though! However I may just have discovered something - I just noticed that my dashcam is not turning off once the ignition if off - usually it would turn off as soon as i opened the doors to exit the vehicle after turning the engine off. It seems to remain powered on - i will need go check in 20/30 mins but its drawing about 0.7A while the car if off and centrally locked... I'm not sure what has caused the 12v socket to stay live / the dashcam not to turn off.... hopefully this is the cause of my problems....
  9. You'll need to get a laptop and install a program called Focccus - http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/FoCCCus_0.8.6.zip Plug your OBDII connector into your car and laptop and then this gives you access to program the car - im not too sure which exact setting you're looking for but you can go from there.
  10. I bought a set from this seller back in 2018 and they're still going strong. But they were much cheaper back then... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Daytime-Running-Light-LED-Fog-Head-Lamp-DRL-Fit-For-Ford-Focus-2011-2014/382569832725?fits=Model%3AFocus|Plat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item5912f06115:g:9WkAAOSwKsdbpKPU
  11. Hi all, I've been trawling the forums for a while - and now the time has come to seek some help. I have a ford focus 2014 mk3, 1.6 TDCi, I usually drive 100miles a day round trip for work. Recently my car alarm has been going off every couple of hours and I think iI've narrowed it down to a possible battery drain. Battery volatge readings were 12.2v with a multimeter - so i bought and fitted a new battery incase it was a faulty battery. However the new battery is now (within 3 days of installing) reading sub 12v and my car alarm went off last night. I have carried out a parasitic drain test: First I measured the mV across the minifuses in the engine bay with a multimeter, however they all fell to 0mV, which indicated no current draw. I was unable to test the fuses circled in red. I then used the 10A Current setting to measure the current draw direct from the battery by placing the multimeter leads inline from the positive terminal of the battery and the positive cable. I tripped all the door and bonnet latches to make the car think they were all closed. And i waited 5-10 minutes for the readings to stabilise. This threw up some strange results: While the car was unlocked the readings fell to 0.008mA which is within spec When i locked the car with the remote the draw stayed at 0.400mA - (I wanted to wait longer but i dont have croc clips, and had to hold the tester leads manually) So I pulled the fuses in the passenger foot well relating to the PATS system but this didnt affect the current draw. The incar displays all turn off when the doors are closed and then locked with the key - so no obvious CAN system fault keeping things awake... I've got Forscan and Focccus set up and trying to do a little diagnostic there - Forscan showed a Current draw of -8A when the car was off however some auxilliary system were powered but nothing that should be pulling 8A in my opinion.... It also showed a battery voltage of 11.9v and a SoC of 27% Another thing i have noticed is my aftermarket DRL now stay illuminated after the alarm has gone off despite the car being off and relocked... Despite all this my car has no issues turning on and driving. I've read some people with similar issues had faults with the bluetooth / SYNC module but im not sure how to diagnose that. And additionally I've read that washer fluid can leak into the BCM panel and corrode pins - but I assume this is a problem on left hand drive cars... since the washer fluid is on the opposite side in my car... Also im not sure how to disconnect those wire harness connectors to check the pin.? I've got the battery back on charge - frpm the wall - and will re do the drain test with some croc clips tomorrow hopefully and allow the car to sit for an 1hr then start pulling fuses if i see a draw.... Any tips or ideas before i give in and go to the dealer or find an auto electrician?? Thanks!