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Benw1234

Budding Enthusiast
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  • First Name
    Ben
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Titanium 1.0T
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hertfordshire

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  1. One of the things I dislike most about my 1.0T 125 Titanium is its brakes. While offering a decent level of feel, they always felt a little unpowered and not as effective as something comparable from say, VAG. At the last MoT, I got an advisory on the front brake discs being worn and the inner pads wearing out, so thought I'd try and cover that off and put something of higher quality in its place. I bought a set of Mintex discs and pads for just £65 delivered from a motor factor on eBay. Mintex are a German brand and have been around years; I remember their kit being a favourite of featured cars in Fast Ford magazine back in the nineties! It's not a tricky job at all for the DIY mechanic but as some of the guides I'd read were shy of photos, I thought I'd write my own. Disclaimer: as always with these guides, undertake this work at your own risk. Getting the brakes wrong obviously has very serious consequences. Get the front of the car jacked up first, remove the wheels and then get a decent face mask on to prevent inhaling brake dust. It wasn't an inspiring sight! This is a 2013/63 car with just under 59,000 miles: Unbolt the brake line first, using a 10mm socket: There are essentially three pieces that make up the Fiesta disc brakes: the disc, the caliper, and a kind of cradle that holds the pads together with a metal spring clip. We'll tackle the caliper first as it's the biggest (and heaviest!). Position a box or similar near the caliper. You'll need this to take the weight of it instead of letting it dangle on a brake line! Behind the brake disc are two 17mm bolts that hold the caliper in place. Remove these, and with a bit of wiggling, it should come free. Here it is sitting on a green plastic box - note the pads are still sitting in the cradle on the disc: Now for the cradle. Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold it in place. There is a 19mm nut on the other side that you may need to hold using a spanner, as shown: Once removed, the cradle can come away with the pads still inside: Unlike some German-made cars I've worked on, the disc simply sits on the hub studs. Once the cradle and caliper are off, you need to use a hammer and while rotating the disc, hit it from behind to drive the disc outwards from the car. Both sides of mine needed a lot of force. It's a good job the old ones weren't going back on! What really surprised me was that the discs seemed to be in worse condition than the pads. There was a definite lip around the edge of the disc, and they'd corroded quite badly. I've never seen that before! Usually, you'd expect to get two sets of pads out of one disc, but with both the wear and corrosion, the discs were finished. The pads weren't as bad but as the MoT tester had spotted, were not worn evenly. Here's a side-by-side, new and old comparison of the discs: Mintex include a pilot hole on the disc for a retaining screw to go on the hub, but this is unused by Ford (another money-saving technique!). The next step is to clean everything thoroughly. Brake cleaner works but at the very least, get over everything with a non-corrosive cleaner. The hub surfaces, in particular, should be spotless. I put a very thin film of copper grease on them. Be careful where the cleaner or grease goes - you don't want it on any of the braking surfaces. You can now fit the disc on to the hub. It will sit loose of course, but you can rebuild the cradle (ensure this has been cleaned too) with the pads first, then line the cradle up with the disc and put the 12mm bolts back in. I also put a tiny dab of grease on the back of the pad nearest the caliper piston: We're nearly there now. Depending on wear, you may need to wind the caliper piston in a little to get it back over your disc. In my case, both the discs and pads were worn sufficiently enough that the caliper needed to go back quite a bit. There are a number of ways of achieving this, but DO NOT use brute force! You can get specialist tools and I have seen adjustable wrenches that do the same, but you can also make up your own. I hoard lots of nuts, bolts, and other bits and pieces and put them together to do the same. In this photo, by turning the leftmost nut, the caliper slowly goes back. NOTE: when winding back a caliper, the brake fluid level in the reservoir may rise beyond the max level and even start spilling out. Wind the caliper back slowly and watch the level; siphon off any excess brake fluid if you need to. Once you have enough space in the caliper, place it over the cradle and bolt it back together with the two 17mm nuts. Put the 10mm bolt in to hold the brake line and you're done! The finished result should look like this: You might still find the discs are loose - this is due to Ford's lack of a retaining screw. When the wheels are reattached, everything is pulled together nicely. Make sure you check the brake fluid level again after the wheels are refitted. It's possible the calipers will have tightened a little and the level may drop. Do a very short road test and be gentle for the first 100 miles. I saw some lines on the disc first as the pads settled in, but now they're working great. It could be my imagination, but they do feel better than before! I think they'll probably deliver their best after a few thousand miles when they're settled in.
  2. Just to update my post, I sold my old Titanium seats (front seats and rear bench) on eBay for £75. So the total upgrade was £148. The seats have been brilliant since fitting - they are *way* more comfortable than the Titanium seats as they're more firm - while the heated function is real luxury. Surprised actually at how often I've switched on the heating, especially with the cold April we've had. Sometimes it's just nice on the lower setting of the two. My two sons approve too, especially when coming home from winter youth football matches!
  3. Have you connected the seats themselves (the big connector block under the seat) and also checked for the heated seat fuses in the fusebox? It is plug and play if you have the fuses already in place.
  4. I've had them in other cars and it is true that you get a weird feeling after a while that you've wet yourself! But the seats are slightly different in shape - I think they're more comfortable - plus the other reason for getting them was my two sons play youth football. Not only is leather easier to clean, but in winter they can warm up a bit quicker after the game (this was the pitch I made to my wife, anyway!).
  5. Seats were £180, switches (including the cut off loom) was £34 delivered and £4 for a connector block. I've got to eBay off my Titanium seats and the duplicate switches so this will come down a little, but won't know for a while.
  6. Hi guys, just completed the retrofit myself and this thread was really helpful. Just to answer this, the black/blue wire provides illumination to the heated seat switch. The back of the switch has 8 wires, with the connector block under the centre console having 7. They all match except for the blue/black one that goes to the grey connector under the stereo as mentioned. The switches will still work if this wire is left out, but for the OEM look, worth doing!
  7. Hi team, New to the forum and wanted to post on this thread, as it's been really helpful to help retrofit the heated leather seats! I've got the same car as the OP (2013 Mk7.5 Titanium) and had exactly the same experience. The small piece of loom is the tricky bit as mentioned. Finding the seats on eBay isn't too hard - they come up from time to time, in either full or half leather versions - but the small connecting loom just isn't available at all. I contacted loads of breakers and even the place I purchased the seats from, but they either didn't have it, had thrown it away or were unwilling to separate it from the shell. One breaker had lots of Fiesta ST shells and in one of the photos, I could just about see the piece of loom - but they still wouldn't separate it! I also agree with the OP that Fiesta STs are a good place to look. They get written off much more than Titanium X models. But then I had a stroke of luck: I already purchased the heated switches, but another set came up with the centre console surround plus a cut-off loom! So I bought this and was able to solder on extra lengths of wire: At the other end, you need to find the connector under the centre console. It's next to the gear selector. You can reach it by removing the passenger side trim below the dash and console: Here's a close-up: I cut this block off and used a new aftermarket connector block to join the wires together. The back of the heated seat switch has 8 wires, while the one in the centre console has 7. They all should colour match, except one, which is black/blue. This provides illumination for the switches, and it needs to go to pin 5 on the C237 grey connector under the stereo. You can splice the same black/blue wire that goes into the auto stop/start, ESC off and park assist buttons nearby if you wish (I tried this and it also illuminates). Otherwise, all plug and play. The leather seats have more wires in the connector block but as the OP says, check your fusebox. If you already have two 15A fuses for heated seats, then you're all set. A worthwhile upgrade! They're more comfy and supportive than the Titanium versions, plus heated of course.
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