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Disasterfocus's Achievements

  1. Hello esteemed members.I installed a replacement oil pump on my 1.0 ecoboost engine and now the damn thing won't start.It was running before I started the job because of oil pressure warning lamp illuminated and a slight rattle.It turns over for about one second then stops.Is it worth trying to build oil pressure by turning the crank pulley for say an hour and trying it again.I never primed the pump and am guessing that a sensor is picking up v low oil pressure and not allowing it to start ?? Any suggestions gratefully received.
  2. Hello folks was testing the fan motor direct to battery and the power plug goes into the bottom of a rectangular plastic block piece which is affixed to the fan frame.The top wiring from this block seems to disappear into the n/s wing.Can anyone tell me what this plastic block piece is as it seems to be too complex just To be an electrical connector .Cheers guys.
  3. Be interesting to hear what was the highest mileage recorded on a 1.0 ecoboost and if it still lives.Im going to do my cylinder head and belt etc very soon.Dont think there's anything to be afraid of as long as you have the tools time and patience
  4. Hello folks it's disasterfocus here again.After 8 months of incident free motoring the 1.0 coolant system has thrown a wobble.Noticed small leak from coolant bottle and replaced same and a new cap Filled up to max and went through bleeding procedure.Next day boy comes home with car and I check the coolant....Empty. Ambient outside temp 27.5 degrees. Refill to max and take for a test drive up to temp.Return and check..coolant begins pishing out of the tank vent and I lose about 1 litre. Check hoses...lower rad hose is cold. Night falls ...ambient temp 18 Deg c refill and repeat bleed procedure.Same test drive...return ..not a drop lost. Car was used again yesterday in daytime temp of 27 Deg c...same pishing out mullarkey from bottle vent Esteemed members can I throw this conundrum out for your comments or should I just drive in the winter and at night ha ha..
  5. I have pulled the plugs for inspection and enclose some pics for your perusal.The interesting thing for me is the lovely baked golden colour of the lower threads also some black oil deposits on the threads.Note the pic of the coil boot with the sweating oil deposits.Electrodes a wee bit sooty and black but not wet.Oil still stable and clean as is coolant.
  6. Thank you both for your comprehensive replies.Its really very much appreciated.I will update with my plug inspection later this week.
  7. Thanks for sticking with me master tech .The steel seal seems to have worked in spite of the doomsayers predictions.I was present at the moment of failure and acted quickly and as I say the oil and coolant are steady and clean. 5 months and counting.Now I've got no doubt that some damage has occurred and the doomsayers would have me replace the engine for a 60 quid gasket..no chance.Im going to fight to save this engine even though I'm only a humble street mechanic.If it has to be then I'll strip her down and get an expert to attend to the head.Its bizarre that some mechanics don't want to work on this engine.Ive replaced the coolant tank,degas hose and valve cover gasket and the only downer is the oil build up in the wells and coil boots.i will have a good look at the plugs and report back.What I don't know is if the oil is coming up from below how it would behave i.e. spray... surge....flood...it will obviously be under more pressure from below as I imagine from above its only under splash pressure.If I can cure this then I think I can save the car.
  8. Yes sir.Cleaned and pristine.The first thing you notice when removing the coil pack us the oil deposits on the base.Now I'm going to be honest and say that there was damage to either the head or gasket as the oil was contaminated and massive coolant loss due to a failure of the expansion tank.I used two doses of steel seal and thought it had come back from the dead..no more contamination of oil and No coolant loss...since December....Vehicle runs reasonably well for 70k...I'm watching the oil and coolant like a hawk.The oil in the plug wells is clean.
  9. Thanks for that ian.I'll pull the plugs and have a look.I take it the oil would be able to force its way past the threads of the plug from below if these seals were worn. The oil is clean..would it not be dirty if it came from below ? No blue or black smoke from exhaust. Looks like a head off job to do these seals ?
  10. Esteemed members I have replaced the cam cover gasket on my 1.0 ecoboost due to fouling of the can boots,oil in plug wells and eventual misfire. I followed Mr Haynes instructions to the letter and used gasket silicone in the correct amounts and places. Oil still getting into plug wells and coil boots. I have checked for any signs of oil tracking from the plastic cover down to the head but I can see no trace. So..possible causes. 1.maybe I have made a mistake in fitting the gasket. 2. Does this model have plug oil seals that I don't know about. 3.the oil is coming from below the spark plug. I would be interested to hear some opinions as its getting rather tedious pulling the coils every few days to clean them.
  11. Ok fair enough..looks like I'm beat.Its got 70k on it so it's not as if it's a new example.I did do the valve cover gasket recently and in doing so had to remove some of the air pipework.Would this have disturbed the maf sensor just by removing some of the adjoining sections.?
  12. Guy on you tube runs a wee jumper cable between battery and earth to reset pcm...tried it last night without success.Do you think if I did it again but this time start the relearn procedure with my foot lightly on the pedal for 15 mins to bring the revs up a little it would 'relearn' the new idle setting ?
  13. Thank you very much for the reply.I suspected it was electronic and thus out of my league.Ill need to look elsewhere to solve the vibration problem.
  14. Hello there.My 2012 focus1.0 ecoboost idles at about 850 rpm and the engine vibrates and sounds like a Soviet tractor.When I press the gas pedal lightly and take it up to 1000 rpm it smoothes out verynicely indeed.im thinking of some way to tweak the idle speed but there's not much info out there..can it be tweaked.should it be tweaked.Replaced top engine mount today and frankly I was hoping for a better outcome.Any info greatly appreciated.
  15. I take it that's why people disconnect it further back down the fuel line so as not to disturb the joint which requires a special tool anyway.
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