unofix

Do you not have a television in your house ? 🤣🤣 Ray you never cease to amaze me with your involvement with the 1.0 Ecoboom. I love the test rig and surprised at how apparently easily the water is leaking. So now you just need to work out how to repair the crack. Maybe you could get a guest appearance on Car SOS 👍

The OP is suffering from 'turbo lag' they've not been back yet to check for any answers 🤣

There is at least a 90% chance it's a simple case that the batteries health is failing. The voltage of 12.08V is very poor and even once the car has started to enter sleep mode a voltage of 12.30V is still only 70% Your car uses a Smart charge system and as such charging voltages between 13.6V and 14.9V are quite normal and will constantly change. Time to open the wallet and dig deep, looks like you need a new battery.

Yes, that is correct. 🙄

🤔🤔 2017

🤔🤔

I don't even know how or why they manage to unearth old dead posts.

Far more likely to be a suspension issue. Lots of moving parts that break and just wear out. Coil springs, shock absorbers, track rod ends, CV joints, or even just the rubber bushes on things like the anti-roll bar. A problem with the differential would be the very last thing on my list to check.

Shhhhhhhh !!!!!! Don't give the idiots any ideas or they'll double the tax 🙁 Diesel at Tesco Durham is £138.9 today 😀

I just had my motorbike MOT'd today and it failed 🙁 The High Beam and the Dipped Beam were crossed over !! I've had the bike for nearly 5 years and this is the forth MOT that I've had done, so the previous 3 tests never noticed the lights being the wrong way. Since I never ride at night I've never noticed the lights been wrong, but I have been riding with the High beam on all of the time 🙄 On the plus side the guy took the wiring to the back of the headlight apart and swapped the wires over for free and then passed the bike 😀

You will get a much better response if you post some photos.

If you disconnect the smart charge plug on the alternator does the charging voltage fall to the default of 13.6V ? You can use FORScan to both check for any Ford specific DTC's and also use it to monitor live data. My guess at the problem is that the earth bond straps between the engine and the chassis are either: Missing, Corroded, or high resistance.

Check the wiring and the connector plugs of the TCM. They are a common source of problems like yours.

🤔🤔

A failure of the "Time Space Continuum" occurred today when two vehicles tried to occupy the same space at the same time ! Police are searching for the driver and passenger of the Focus RS as they fled the scene moments after the crash leaving the driver of the Mercedes wondering what the hell just happened. The Focus RS will undoubtedly be a total write off as both sides are smashed in and the 'B' posts bent like a banana. If the driver was the very recent owner of the car they are going to be well out of pocket as the vechicle is not taxed which will probably mean the insurance (if there is any) will be void.

Have a search around this forum and you'll find that the same gearbox in America gets serviced approximately at 37000 miles. They are not actually sealed for life it's just Ford didn't bother to fit a drain plug 🤣

Yes it is the 'exact' cable that I bought from Amazon last May. Have used it lots and can confirm it is the real vLinker FS cable.

Hi Scott, you could still have a fault with the supply wires to the speed controller. Checking with a multimeter can sometimes still show 12V but it dies when under load. Disconnect both the input plug and the output plug from the speed controller. Then carefully use some short bits of wire to link the positive supply over to the positive output, and do the same with the negative. In effect you are just removing the speed controller from the circuit. The Fan should now run at full speed just as it did when you used the crocodile (alligator if you're American 🤣) clips on to the battery. Using this method will prove the supply is working correctly. After that you are looking at either your replacement speed controller is faulty. Or the PWM signal from the PCM is not correct, but you will need to check that with a scope.

Poster's you know what they're like !! 🤣 Some even get new cars and don't even update their profiles 😉

You will not find any suitable seats for your car here in the UK, our cars are RHD. The drivers seat and the passenger seat are not the same. You need seats from a LHD car.

Hi Jaker, it might be a good idea to modify your profile details to show what model car you have. At the moment it just says Mk2.5 and since you are posting this in the general Ford forum its not immediately obvious. The issue could be with the Keyless Aerial or with the Remote Key Module (RKM). Have you used FORScan to check for any faults being logged ? I'm not 100% certain where the Keyless Aerial is on your car but on many Fords it is located in the head lining just behind the courtesy light.

OPW ?

That would be correct for a 2012 S-Max See Ford owners handbook Page 174 https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/ENUSA_CG3533_GLX_og_201204.pdf

More info would help. Are you looking for help with: Bodywork, Engine, Gearbox, Suspension, Electrics ? Do you have a particular problem or are you just wanting a standard service ?

It sounds very much like you have water ingress to the Body Control Module (BCM) quite a common issue on your model. BEFORE you investigate the BCM disconnect the car battery. The BCM is part of the passenger compartment fusebox located under the glovebox. Remove all connectors and look for signs of water ingress and/or greenish corrosion of the connector pins and sockets.