unofix

Try reversing the car at a moderate speed and pumping the brake pedal a few times, its a good way of clearing any trapped stones from the brake discs.

Fuse has blown for the yellow wire. The voltage should be the same as the red wire. The 2.3V is just a ghost voltage, no power actually there, it's just the very high impedance of a digital meter means it 'senses' some voltage that is being induced in to the wire as it runs through the harness with other wires that are carrying power. Check fuse F17 and F18 in the engine bay fusebox.

There are no "sheets" but most changes can done in the section of FORScan that uses words. Or you can ask on the forum if there is something that you are trying to change.

5mm drill bit.

Sounds like it could be a waffle sprocket. Hard to tell without a photo.

and the production of batteries will be a problem for vintage electric vehicles in the future. Since there seems to be little standardisation on batteries, each is bespoke to the model. Over the next 50 years batteries will change both size and technology making a replacement battery pack for a classic vehicle extremely difficult to obtain.

This one ?

Would a guy in his forties want to gather round a Nissan Leaf in 60 years time and say to those around "my Grandad used to have one of those" ????? The shame of it 🤣

47.5Nm (35 lb-ft) to the chassis, 80Nm (59 lb-ft) to the engine.

That's a better way to test the active braking !! Far less dangerous than tailgating an HGV. Only minimum risk of damage to the bodywork, the car that is, not the pedestrian 🤣

🤔🤔

I won't say it, as I'm sure you're already feeling down. 😞 You have won my admiration for sheer dogged hard work. It may be of help to others in the future who think they can save an Ecoboom with a spanner and a few parts form the local parts shop. I'm sure that it has been a learning experience and much of what you have discovered will be of great use on future projects. 👍

It's very easy to test. At your own risk !! Drive at 50 MPH very close to the back of an HGV. When the lorry stops if you smash in to the back of it (please note there is a risk of death) then your pre-collision and active braking system has failed. Seriously you don't have to be "the best driver" to never experience active braking. Any average driver should rarely see the system work, it's designed as a 'last resort' to try and prevent a collision. Do you ever test the airbags in the car to see if they work ? or check that the explosive seat belt tensions will work in the event of an impact ? Finally: This shouldn't need to be said but these days you can never be sure. 'Do NOT test your active braking system using the method above or you may well end up dead'😞

Possibly you have burnt out the starter solenoid or even the starter motor due to excessively trying to start the engine. It doesn't actually matter which has failed as they have to be replaced as a combined unit.

Does the engine crank ? If yes then not the starter motor. If No then it is not the ignition cables, or the ignition coil.

Roger bought a Model T brand new when they first came out 🤣

Wow !!!! That's quite a list of DTC's you have there. First begin by checking the battery voltage with a digital multimeter about 1 hour after it's been parked. Is the SOC less than 60% ?

Have to agree with Tom, I use McCain (regular size, not chunky) and cook them at 200oC in the fan over for 25 mins and they're fine. Almost look like the packet. I do admit they don't taste like real chips deep fried in a chip pan (beef dripping was best).😋

Yes he did. 👍

Oh dear ! Time for a nice new shiny engine. If you shop around you can get a brand new Ecoboost 1.0 for just under £2K plus about £800ish to have it fitted,

There is quite a good chance that at the very least you have blown a fuse. Or you might be unlucky and one of the modules has become damaged. Try disconnecting the negative lead from the car battery and leaving it off for 20 minutes. Then reconnect and it will reboot all the modules in the car including the infotainment system.

Forty eleven inches. Not sure what that is in metric 🤣

The very last letter "M" does not need to be the same. It can be higher like N, P, Q, R, S, etc. but it can't be lower for example "L" would not work. You do need the second last letter to be "C" or you have little chance of it working correctly.

I'm in the North East, and the OP is in Yorkshire so it should be cheaper for him 🤣

I assume (probably wrongly) that while you were doing all this swapping of radios that you had disconnected the car battery ?