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  1. Did this couple months ago. The toggle appears in the dash menu but no power to the loom, it isn't actually connected to anything. Not as simple as just reprogramming sadly. I think i'll go down the route of wiring to the roof light circuit and the functionality should hopefully be the same 🙂
  2. My car has a 3 pin connector on both sides in the footwells ('14 Focus Zetec MK3 prefacelift) but no power to them. This thread tells me that the factories just lazy so that's out of the equation to plug n play. My plan was to simply splice into the front roof light and run wires down the A pillar to where the 3 pin connectors are and then solder to my LED strips directly. Surely this should work fine as i'm simply adding a light in sequence with the roof light? Unaffected by the whole LINbus issue? You'll be saving me a bunch of time testing this out if i'm wrong so please let me know what you think is the best approach 🙂 P.S Sorry for reviving such an old thread
  3. Did you ever solve this? Or can anyone help - have turned it on but no power to either of the 3 pin connectors on my Zetec Focus. Hoping it's a programming fix using Forscan instead of having to pull power from somewhere else.
  4. Hi anyone reading, I have fully completed the upgrade as well as adding rear sensors and on-screen visualisation. I had a 5dr Zetec Focus MK3 '14. The pin-guide spreadsheet posted is perfect and correct. It will save you lots of time researching and understanding wiring diagrams. Use it or don't do the mod. A quick note - FCIM is the front panel connector with the red cap (Front Controls Interface Module) whereas the FCDIM is the small latch connector that used to go into your old display - hence the D for display. I know this is something most will pick up on but i'm making it explicitly clear for anyone in future 😄 You will have to cut away some ballache tape from the APIM connectors harness to be able to force it into the top section of the unit where it will be getting plugged in. It's quite annoying and lots of sticky tape has to be cut to free it as well as some ziptie b.s connectors holding them to the inside of the plastic. Issues I personally encountered: 1) The GPS Fakra antenna I got was a cheap Chinese one (I wanted to do both upgrades for under £500) - it takes a few seconds after boot to work sometimes, and occasionally it boots to an "Error with nav" message for a second or 2. 2) The female jumper lead pins I was reusing (cutting the heads off and soldering to relevant wires) were not the same shape as those used in the original Sync 1 APIM connector. They were very loose. You may want to get the Mouser ones suggested here. Or look for something identical to the existing ones. 2.1) The latch casing can be removed from the 54-pin APIM connector by lifting the 2 flaps on either side and sliding it off. It should be easy. This connector casing is somewhat common on Ford cars. However, due to my loose pins in the connector I could not slide the latch casing back on without it bending wires so much that pins don't plug in to the SYNC3 APIM. In the end I left the casing off and just resorted to plugging in the connector directly to the APIM. I held onto the connector casing with the latch just in case. 3) If soldering and not using wagos or T-taps then buy wire strippers! They will save you lots of time and problems! 4) Get prying tools! You may struggle to get the cup holder out and reach your 12v or struggle to remove other parts such as the handbrake trim near the gearstick. 5) The fuse may have gone on your 12V port. It is fuse #61 and 20 amps. My ground wire from this port was the "sideways" one "underneath" the "vertical" one. Sorry for the poor description. From a first person view it is the second one you will see or touch as it is "underneath". Best to test it using any metal nearby and a multimeter or circuit tester. 6) Buy enough wire 7) Take pictures throughout and label wires to avoid getting confused or lost. 8.0) When programming I used an odd order because I got too excited... I did it before any of the actual wiring work (I had fitted my sensors a week prior). How I programmed it and issues I had: A) Follow the steps outlined by OP for using FoCCCus. This is easy to follow and do. B) Confirm that your buttons and fascia buttons etc. work - also change any settings here such as sensors or autolights if you've done other mods at the same time. C) There is a bunch of people online figuring out how to modify As-Built data and codes for the APIM using Forscan. You'll need a Forscan month free trial to use the programming feature. Yes you can use OPs method to get *.ab files and load them - I did this to note any differences from my original programming. But for me this didn't work for sensor visualisation. I suggest posting a thread or searching this forum for help with that. Specifically I was helped on the MK3+3.5 retrofit sensors thread. For some reason (I assume because of programming before installing the system) I had lost my central configuration and had to use Forscan to restore it 😞 This meant I couldn't use FoCCCus to do anything in the end and did all the AsBuilt stuff using Forscan. Luckily things were fine once restored but just be aware that could happen. You can use CyanLabs Syn3Updater to get Sync 3.4 (latest update as of writing). The UI feels cleaner and Android Auto/Apple CarPlay loads much faster. I strongly recommend. Consider the lock button compulsory and not optional - it's a pain not being able to unlock the car on the fly with the key in. Attached are pictures of my finished project 🙂
  5. This forum is legendary! Thank you so much! I had done everything except the CIMCA thing, works beautifully. I'll reread this when fitting my reverse camera in a couple months. Thanks a lot bro 😁
  6. You can now use Cyanlabs Syn3Updater software to upgrade to Sync 3.4 (latest update). Will give you the same system as some 2020 cars I think. It also just looks nicer lol
  7. What exactly can I do to get Rear Sensors visualisation on either my IP screen or my Sync3 upgrade? Have tried using AsBuilt APIM data from a 2017 Focus MK3 with largely the same features, also tried playing around with some of the programming in Forscan using another forum but still nothing. Also since I installed my Sync3 FoCCCus won't work.... it launches saying "Error reading XML" and when trying to read from IPC or BCM I get an error "Couldn't read from second bootloader". Also getting a bunch of DTC messages in Forscan for a bunch of things (wasn't there before) My guess if FoCCCus doesn't work on newer cars so won't work with the Sync3 upgrade? I have fully working functionality, just no visual aid for the 4 rear sensors that I retrofitted, only chimes when in reverse and makes any audio quieter. Everything else works beautifully (every now and then I get a "Navigation is not working properly, please get it serviced" but after a few seconds the nav works fine. If anyone can give me any help showing rear sensors on any screen please reply 🙂
  8. @JPW sorry to pester you again! 😂 final thing now, wheres nearest ground wire to ur lock button? Will be fitting my button near handbrake (Z-shape brake) and wanting to map out my setup in my mind. Any specific colour that the manufacturer makes these? Also, what was easiest means of drilling the trim, remove and drill or just from the outside in? 🤔
  9. Just saying but James' guide is amazing and using his spreadsheet to create your harness should work flawlessly. Just know that the female jumper cables connector metal heads are not exactly identical to the stock 54-pin connector heads, they will work... but without the latch connector casing (I had to remove it and just plug it in directly). @JPW Thank you so much btw, I haven't written my tips/feedback comment on this or the other post yet because still have to fix the OBD2 I f*ed up and waiting on my momentary switch this week (I only realised afterwards how useful it is lol). So far so good, massive massive thank you! Saved me hours of looking for diagrams and other peoples help 🙂
  10. No blue LED. I think my connectors are not in on the APIM side vecause the female jumper leads without black casing are very loose. They arent the same head as the OEM ones - maybe the Mouser ones you linked are better for future reference. The female jumpers are decent for the USB hub side and i'm sure theyre connected, either a solder joint has split when forcing the unit back into the car or the leads fell out of the APIM when putting the latch connector back on. Or both 😞 Thank you so much for your help so far btw, been a rough 36hrs working with like 3 fingers and blood everywhere.
  11. Fitted everything today, must have snapped some solder connections when forcing everything back together because the USB hub is not working at all. Then again my OBD2 is still f'ed up, so maybe just doesn't recognise the port? What do you think is more likely? @JPW Does it make sense that the USB hub wont work if I haven't Forscan'd it? I did the programming before any wiring when I was fitting sensors last weekend, so fortunate enought that I now have fully functional maps and SYNC3 but cant update to SYNC3.4 and can't plug into my OBD2 (until I fix it 😢) If the hub should work anyways then I will rip it open again tomorrow and confirm joints 😢 Been a huge pain all of this since yesterday when I basically amputated my finger trying to remove the casing on the OBD2 wires.
  12. Tried... cut half my finger off because the insulation was so thick the blade (a new one) was getting stuck. There's not enough wire to strip on the pin side of the cuts in order to form a good connection. Gonna depin and attempt to fix or replace pins entirely and try and extend the wires from a bit further up the bit thats been cut. The copper crumbles away when trying to connect them, very dry (assuming given the age).
  13. No idea how you've all spliced the OBD2 cables! 😞 Really f'ed those up today and ended up snipping them in half. Wires were brittle so can't repair, will prob have to get more wire and some OBD2 pins and wait even longer to complete everything 😢 I knew it would be hard... but not this difficult shiiii
  14. No green/biege fakra 😞 Ahh sounds good, I figured I could just put the wires into 14 and 15 and leave them loose and taped up on the other end, then once I have the boothandle camera I wont need to open up the APIM connector housing. Should just be able to solder 14 and 15 to +/- on the camera cables no?
  15. Pins 14 and 15 for the Reverse Camera, wdym by Fakra Adaptor +. I have 2 black fakras (assuming they're positive as theyre the only 2 same colour). 1 from the FCDIM and 1 from the ACM? I want to retrofit a camera in a couple months (I have the grey connector in the boot) but just wondering if I can do any prep work now to save time.
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