RayC333

Case study: No sign of any leak, water pump, pipes, coolant reservoir etc. Poor running, gradually getting worse but no actual overheating or high temperature shown on the dash gauge. Could if course be a head gasket breaking down, and there is a test kit for that, but there is another possible cause. 1.0 Ecoboosts are known to get a crack in the cylinder head. The design incorporates an integral exhaust manifold and cracking can occur between the coolant passages and the manifold (insufficient wall section and/or poor heat treatment during manufacture). Result, coolant in the cylinders, most prominently no 2. Remove the coils and spark plugs, do a check for coolant ingress - use an endoscope or a simple tightly rolled piece of kitchen paper poking down to the piston crowns. Is it wet? A head gasket can be replaced but is an expensive job. Both the heads I've worked with also required skimming. Good luck.

Of course there are various factors involved and individual choice but I would caution that fitting a new or reconditioned engine is not a guarantee of future reliability. Whilst acknowledging that any make of car engine can break down at any time, I've noted that many 1.0 Ecoboost owners have had second or even third engines fitted (in some cases directly by Ford) - only to fail again. In my example I pursued the repairs myself - mainly trying to reduce the financial burden on my daughter and because the many issues (after the original oil starvation) were incremental and I'd already invested time and money. Not a great situation for anyone to be in. I wish Ford would do more for those affected.

I currently have that dilemma. Knowing what I do about the recent history of my car, and after reading scores of accounts on the Facebook site 'Ford Ecoboost Nightmare', I'm reluctant to sell it on. That's despite fixing all the known issues and the time and care I've put into it.

From experience I would say the chances are quite high.

How sexist! What about me getting stranded on the M5 on a dark dark night? I suppose I could call my daughter for help though, she has a reliable Honda HR-V 😀

There is a much simpler way to check than taking things apart. Get a torch and simply look at the nice big crankshaft bolt and washer. Is it new? If so the job has almost certainly been done. Special tools and/or lots of labour are required to get to a point with the bolt replaced and with the engine remaining correctly timed. Is it old? Job has not been done (nobody would do what is required for a cambelt change without changing the main bolt that costs less than a tenner.

Agree. Going right back to the beginning with my Ecoboom, this is what a local garage did to (what was then) my daughters car. Mechanic dropped the sump, fitted a very expensive new pump and oil control valve and told her it would be ok. The regulars here know the rest.

Have you opened the bonnet to check if the rattle is any louder inside the engine compartment? As you can hear the noise with the car static, it would suggest that the normal movement of the engine/gearbox is shaking a loose/worn/broken component.

Vacuum pumps are quite expensive. If you wanted to check the pump is creating a good vacuum reading, it can be cost-effective to buy a vacuum gauge off ebay. Note that if using a hand held vacuum pump tool you're pulling air away from the pump. In normal use, the vacuum pump is drawing air in the other direction. I connected the gauge using a length of tubing to the vacuum pump valve, ran the engine and checked it was creating a good vacuum reading. I've disassembled a vacuum pump and there are very few moving parts inside. The only realistic place it could lose it's vacuum efficiency is past the driven rotor bearing. That's why I asked if the brake servo is operating ok to rule that out. Having said all that, I did end up buying a new pump, mainly because of the many turbo related issues I had and was desperate to get it all sorted (fitted new turbo assembly, turbo oil feed filter, vac pump, vac tubing, pressure control valve). If you do go the new pump route don't forget a new gasket will be required. Good luck.

1. Does the vacuum pump operate the brake servo system ok? If yes, it's unlikely there's a problem with the pump body. 2. The vacuum pump valve (to turbo system) should be checked with engine running using a vacuum gauge. Should a get a fairly steady vacuum reading. If it's not then it's common for that valve to be defective. Usually the orange coloured silicone diaphragm inside is split/torn. Many people try replacing the the diaphragm with one bought off ebay, usually with success but not always.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt-aVc9wRB0 At about 36 - 46 seconds in. Similar sound? Intermediate drive shaft bearing? If it were my car that's what I would be unbolting and checking. Also this ... https://www.fiestafaction.com/threads/driveshaft-support-bearing.55362/ Doesn't make sense though if the mechanics thus far say no.

Assume the noise is coming from the front of the car? Noise equally distributed or sounds more from the nearside or offside? Concerning that you've been fobbed off at your local garages. Have they had it up on a lift and checked for abnormal movement, feel and sound? I agree with Tom on the most likely cause(s).

When the car jump starts, are the jump start cables being used in the normal way or are they bypassing parts of the starting system? If being used in the normal way it would confirm parts of the system, starter switch, relay, solenoid, starter motor are all ok and point more towards battery/earthing issues. Hopefully someone will come along soon with more electrical system knowledge.

Well I'm perplexed to say the least, assuming the full history of this engine is known to rule out any possible previous replacement/oil pump maintenance. Having personally fitted and later exposed a 1.0 wet belt, this one looks better than mine after 10x more running. Even the crankshaft bolt looks as though it's not seen action. Most believe it's either a fundamental wet belt design problem or lack of/improper servicing that causes degradation of the belt and pump blockage but perhaps not. Are there possibly other confounding factors going on in examples like mine? I used a new Dayco belt and tensioner, oil to the correct grade and spec., no abuse, so why the difference?

No problem. Always best to ask. No doubt you've read some of the horror stories about Ecoboost engines (especially the earlier 1.0 versions). From what you've said, everything seems as it should be. Keep it regularly serviced, always using consumables to the correct specifications. If you do decide to keep the car long term, you might consider having the cambelt replaced earlier than your service book recommends. Expensive to have done but could be a good investment if you consider the car a keeper. Good luck!