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    Focus MK4 Tournier
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  1. Just check if it is not a mistake of "mirror view". If it is truth, it will be yellow-violet (mostly yellow with a violet line). This LIN line is exclusively for the rear camera, so just check if bu chance it is not already in C405/pin#5 ? Edit: The LIN#6 is also used for "Anti-theft horn with integral battery" what ever it is. So, It might be that there is already a cable. Just check the colour and you can splice into it.
  2. These gave poor, uneven light: These give good light but they are too strong (rsistor 0.3ohm needs to be replaced by 1ohm): These are very cheap and look quite ok. Takes 3W. Someone promised to test but haven't tried them yet: Each of these bulbs can interfere with radio reception.
  3. I have worked out the problem. These guys are of course china s***. Unfortunately, these are the only one which works fine for MK4 (light without shades). Chine cheaters claim "Canbus error free" but it is not completely truth. These "bulbs" takes too much power (7W) and light is almost white, thanks to that, there are no errors. I have tested the car and 7-8W is the edge, so the may work and one day may not work. Also, 7W is ridiculous, I modified them to take 1.8W and light intensity is exactly same as for normal bulbs. Now, what to do with errors: Option #1 install resistor in parallel, these will cheat the car but if LED bulb get broken, we will not get any info. Option #2 disable in BdyCM using forscan for instance. Simple, but same as #1 disables detection. These LED bulbs are so unreliable that I was afraid to stay without detection. Indicators are so important. Well... Option #3 dedicated electronic circuit, same as made for premium (Philips) indicator LEDs. This is 3-wire circuit which keeps detection without errors. I can share technical design of this electronics if anyone is interested. It is very simple. In UK, you have your Autobeam shop, maybe they have some good quality LED bulbs.
  4. Ford pin number is 9U5T-14474-DA, you can find many pictures of it. I have no clue where you can find similar pins in UK.
  5. There won't be any spare cables. Just use F3 in BCM, F33 is in the engine fuse box.
  6. Hi! @unofix Thanks for remembering! I'll do my best to help. Firstly, need VIN to sort out BCM number and exact connector references. This is Focus MK3, which year? P.
  7. I'm on the other side of the force. Imho, without clutch cancel is the only reasonable way of working for either ACC or normal CC. I had normal CC in MK4 and in my last car. Then I have enabled ACC in my MK4 and this is one of the greatest features in this car!!! Clutch cancel would spoil it definitely. I don't know other brands, but Ford is doing very well. Breaks with engine, don't do nasty or quick actions. I have also noticed, when I drive behind a car with lower speed then set up, my car starts gently accelerating when the indicator is turned on, amazing.
  8. Looks promising. There already pins to be inserted into the connectors! One remark, shield is external to be grounded anywhere. In wiring diagrams it goes from APIM. IMO, it is like 95% fine, will work. But, the art of signals in electronics tells, that shield should go from the main device (in this case APIM). That's how Ford designed it. I think it will be fine. This harness will save you couple of hours if the length of the cable is good for Focus MK4.
  9. Directly from the camera to BCM:
  10. I use industrial automation cables. They are strong, withstand low and high temperatures. Automotive cables are expensive because usually you need to buy whole spindles. This is cable I used for video signal. Of course, there are cables used in acoustics or just RCA video cables, but I would doubt about durability of cheap ones.
  11. From the camera, go like that (pink). C405 is on on main body, not on the tailgate. From C405, you just need to connect to one wire - power supply. Steps 5 and 5.5 (first post) do not apply to OEM camera since OEM camera is permanently powered from F3, GND is taken from APIM via shield. That could be confusing. I have LHD car, so all cables from the front goes on the right side. RHD car has BCM on the left, the author drag cables on the left side. So maybe you can think about putting only power cable via right side from C405 and rest via left side? Honestly, power can be taken directly from fuse F3 and goes with all other wires, so that you don't have to worry about C405 any more. Just a suggestion.
  12. Camera connector: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004283700650.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3a1d4bc0EVqaDy&algo_pvid=f74f136f-0ebb-43d6-ae9a-b734cc009089&algo_exp_id=f74f136f-0ebb-43d6-ae9a-b734cc009089-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000028623769877"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!PLN!5.75!4.08!!!!!%402145279016791397590174225d0715!12000028623769877!sea!PL!0&curPageLogUid=LiB0IfbPXn4b&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol
  13. Somewhere there, just follow the right bunch of tailgate wires:
  14. The white cable added to BCM, (it was the same type as one added to APIM connector):
  15. Here is the wiring diagram you need. Camera has connector C4357. There is no need to buy the whole tailgate loom. Only connector for camera, and cables from it going do the place where is the connector C405 (right side, close to the rear lamp). Ford save like a hell, so there will be no cables and pins in this connector, all are missing. To the same place (close to C405), you need to drag cables from APIM and BCM. This cables can tied together for good, however it is better to add there any kind of pluggable connector in case of need to remove tailgate (body repair). It is also possible to reuse C405 and add missing pins but there are quite specific and might be difficult to find exact male & female pins, the only reasonable source of such pins is same type of connector from scrap. So, camera connector has five lines. C4357 #1 - power supply, connect to a wire from C405 #6 C4357 #2 - LIN from BCM, connect to C2280F #59 C4357 #3 - video to APIM C2383A #15 C4357 #4 - video to APIM C2383A #14 C4357 #5 - ground, connect via shied to APIM C2383A #33 If there is no PDC (it happens !!! ), there one more line to add - from the famous fuse F3 to C4357 #1.
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