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Budding Enthusiast
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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta MK7 ST-2
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STP975's Achievements

  1. The Chinese make and supply devices to clone, copy, defeat, pick, override and fiddle with every system known to man. This is the problem, the black market for things like key programmers, lock decoders and the like, is rife and no one will ever be able to stop that.
  2. Could be, as the body ones are welded on and the hatch ones are bolted. I replaced those bolts with Stainless ones and the brackets are not that sturdy really. The original bolts were corroded and looked naff.
  3. Thanks folks. I do think the brackets on the hatch side look a bit flimsy, though the body ones are braced and look like they would be fine, I might look into getting thicker hatch brackets made up first. Good to get a broad spectrum of views. I would buy new as suggested. I'll give them a go and see how I get on!
  4. I fancy an auto-popping boot lid on the Fiz ST. Seen Emerald struts for £89 and the self-fit springs on ebay for £17 - now the FPO says "no way" to me spending £90 on the struts and part of me agrees with her, but I'm in the boot 4 times a day, every day in life and 6 times on shopping days and at weekends. So...I would love to hit the plip twice and have the boot open by itself. There isn't a lot of room at the end of the struts for the springs when the hatch is closed, looks about 20mm or so and I'm sure I read the springs need 35mm so that's probably no use, as the ST struts look thicker probably from having to lift the rear wing, than the standard Fiesta ones in the listing for the helper springs. I also feel the mounting plates at each end of the struts look a bit flimsy to be honest. (thinking of the extra forces on them when the door is closed with the additional power of the springs added) So, any comments, thoughts, experiences anyone?
  5. Hmmm - this sounds like a pretty unusual set of circumstance but I'd be wondering if anything on the canbus is causing an issue with comms between certain modules, this would be one for Forscan and the correct OBD lead, OBDLink EX usb (my fave and recommended by Forscan.org) My best guess, is an issue with the BCM (Body Control Module) - maybe a battery disconnection (reset) would kick it back into life, worth a shot for free. Otherwise, it's all guesswork and that costs time, money or both in the long run. See if someone near you has FS and knows how to use it, or buy it yourself (software is free, OBD cable costs a few quid) then get a laptop on the car and see what's what. Depends on how computer & car savvy you are of course. There you will find the fault messages and be able to test stuff directly.
  6. I have several measures in place like you, but I use the Stoplok Pro instead of the Disklok, that's the only difference. My point was the Stoplok Pro is in my view, easier to put on and still gives a good level of security, after reading many industry reviews before buying anything. I don't want my car stolen either, I said if all those measures don't deter a thief then insurance is my last protection. Most people don't fit the Stoplok correctly, just putting it on the rim somewhere, they even tell you in the manual to lock it straddling one of the wheel spokes on the wheel which makes it much harder to remove even by cutting the wheel with a hacksaw. It also does not allow them to break the steering lock as the bar is so long, it can't be swung anywhere, it jams either under the dash or at the windscreen depending on what angle the wheel is at. I choose to trap it below the dash so it can only be moved a few inches at best, before hitting the gear surround which would achieve nothing. Now I know just like Oasis & Blur, The Beatles & The Stones & The Who, people will be polarised on which one of these locks is their favourite, and that's fine - but a good lock is way better than no lock and better than a cheap crappy lock. I'm on the same page.
  7. Absolutely! Joking aside, you can do what is reasonable and if they are determined enough, they will have a go. The trick is to make it obviously harder for the opportunist to quickly & easily nip off with it and that's about it.
  8. I lock the stoplok properly onto the spoke of the steering wheel, so they would need to make a minimum of 4 cuts through the wheel to get it off, and I have the PATS software that requires an original key to be present for a new one to be programmed (already tested that with Forscan) so if they are so determined that they would take the chance the OBD is not blocked or relocated (mine is) and then break in and spend a while making 4 cuts through the wheel, while the alarm is screaming, only to find they can't program a key, then they are welcome to try, that's what insurance is for. My thinking is they would see the stoplok (or disklok of course which I agree is superior on a couple of points) and move on to find an ST with no extra protection.
  9. See here for tutorial on using Forscan. Basically you use the "chip" icon on the left side (configuration) and select for example the BCM module, save the configuration before making changes using the SAVE button at the bottom.! Then find "cruise control" and change from "not present" to "present" or "Disabled" to "Enabled" and then press the WRITE button to commit the changes to the module. Having the saved config means you can put it back if it all goes ***** up. That was a simple explanation but Forscan is powerful and you can easily brick your car...so read carefully below and save any module's config before you change anything. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=60025#p60025 https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1932
  10. Haha cheers mate, have to admit I never went for the disklok as I thought it's less faff with the stoplok but each to his own!
  11. Yeah, I know what you mean - not saying the disklok is hard to fit but its a big lump, and I can take the stoplok off or put it on while seated in the car and drop it behind the seats with one hand. And it doesn't slither about while driving...so given they both offer the same level of resistance to removal, either is good.
  12. Common theme unfortunately as Ford decided to make it easy to program a spare key via the OBD port. I'm sure the later cars with MyKey (2014 onwards for a Fiesta imho) had to have a master key present (original programmed key) in order to program a new spare key and the earlier models didn't, so that may have fouled their plans. I have a StopLok, very highly rated by the industry and way easier than a DiskLok to fit and remove. It was tested by Autocar using a professional vehicle locksmith dude using tools and he said after 5 full minutes with power tools, he hit the time limit and had to give up. It was rated the same security level as the Disklok but won #1 spot due to being easier to fit and remove. Halfords own brand ones lasted less than 5 seconds and he didn't even use any tools... there are videos online. Don't get a cheapo one but invest £50-£100 in a good StopLok or a Disklok. The thieves won't even bother trying to break in, and will move onto one that has no steering wheel security lock. It's very visible. You can relocate or block the OBD port but that can result in broken windows and damaged locks before they realise they can't operate the OBD. A big yellow secure deterrent like StopLok is more likely to be seen and they will walk on to find a car without one. I NEVER leave my ST parked without it being on. Takes a couple of seconds to fit and remove even while inside the car with the doors closed. (winter etc.) Provided you have the security keys of course!
  13. On my 2014 Fiesta ST, the USB socket will weakly charge the Android phone, and works with a USB stick to play MP3 files but it can't communicate with the phone over the USB. The voltages have not changed at all, always been 5v for USB, but the data speeds supported do go up as the years go by. I believe the Apple devices such as an iPod or iPhone can be controlled by the USB using a Media interface that's built in to them, but Android phones don't work like that. iPods can act like a USB stick when required. Maybe the newer Apple devices no longer support this, no idea as I've always had Samsung phones. Best plan is to put a 3.5mm male to male jack lead into the phone's headphone socket and then to the aux jack in the car, then select Aux on the Sony stereo and you will be able to speak to Google, play music etc. and even take calls if you set the phone to "auto-answer" in the car "when a headphone or headset is connected". Just sit the phone in the little pocket where the sockets are. Job done. Hope this helps. Not sure if you have an Android phone, or a newer iPhone? There are also radio linked BT units that plug into the power socket / cig lighter, and transmit to the radio on 108 FM so you can stream music and calls to those. Lots on Amazon.
  14. Check the brake pedal switches are not operating intermittently, or make sure you aren't catching the brake pedal with the edge of your throttle foot - as if you try for instance to left-foot-brake, you will find as soon as you touch the brake pedal, the throttle will instantly be cut to zero, even on full throttle. This is to prevent people hitting the throttle in an emergency brake situation, the brake pedal gets priority if both are detected at the same time. If there is no EML then I'd think something like the above is happening. A blocked fuel filter would cause fuel pressure issues so I'm sure an EML would be lit and codes stored.
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