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  1. Here's a thing. I noticed a couple of weeks ago that there was condensation inside my offside headlight so I though I'd just pop off the rear cover and let it dry out. I reached into the very restricted area, popped off the cover clip and found that there is no room to remove the cover due to all the pipes etc. I left it for a while to dry out and then found that access is so limited that I could not get the rear cover into position to re-fit the clip. I then went over to the nearside to see how that is fitted since it is more accessible. I placed my left index finger onto the raised arch of the clip and pulled to release it and - my finger slipped into the clip at the moment it slipped upward to release trapping my finger by the upper finger joint - it was agony and I was stuck fast with the clip seeming to tighten against the headlight body if I moved. That was it. I was reduced to shouting my wife from the driveway as I could do nothing and was worried about losing my finger due to restricted circulation. My wife responded and she fetched a pair of stout long-nose pliers which I managed to work in next to my trapped hand and by pulling the clip upwards with brute force I could just about get my finger out. I suffered some nail damage but nothing serious. If I had been working alone I would have lost my finger or worse. If you are working on Ka headlights like these, never let your finger go into the clip, always have a phone in your pocket and keep a pair of stout long nosed pliers within reach. I did eventually get the covers back on but it took forever and red hands. What a nightmare.
  2. My 2006 Ka came with one key. I have obtained a copy key from a local shop that had one old-stock Ford key left with the built-in red transponder. (£10 all in). The key opens the door and boot and fits the ignition but of course does not start the car. Also - after trying the new key when you try the old key again for the first two tries it just doesn't start - worrying. Any ideas welcome please.
  3. Hi Phil I have a 2006 Ka with the 1299 Duratec engine and changed my starter motor earlier this week. It was not as easy as I thought. The two electrical connections are a 10mm and 13mm nut and are inaccessible with the motor attached to the engine. I had to remove the three mounting bolts (the top one is a pig to to remove) and then jiggle out the motor past the oil filter. You can then just about get to the electrical connections to them. When fitting the new motor you have to first loosly fit the electrical connections, jiggle the motor into place and replace the mounting bolts. Lastly you can just about get the two nuts on the electrical connections and tighten them. Not a nice job due to access issues. Good luck and don't forget to disconnect the battery first!
  4. Hi, I did consider using silicone grease but was put off by the combination of the coil having conical towers and the new leads having tightly-fitted rubber boots. I found that unless you mated the connector to the tower electrode really well, the rubber boot just rode up the tower causing a gap inside and I didn't want another misfire. Just been out and the car is still working great. Just noticed that my battery strap is missing and looks like it may have rotted away so I will have to fix that next, and I am waiting for my £20 eBay starter motor as mine sometimes grinds on the first try (£300 from Ford, new). I'll keep you all posted with progress. Lastly - bad coolant leak from Thermostat housing alert! The cause was a failed O ring around the temperature sensor - new one fitted and now all Ok.
  5. Good morning. Earlier this month I was looking for a cheap car and the only one in the whole area was a 2006 Ford Ka (have you noticed how, up to a few years ago old, cheap cars were in abundance, even going for £100 at the side of the road, but now there are none). It was going cheap because it had a stubborn misfire (1.3 Duratec) and with 6 months MOT I decided to give it a go. I have owned a lot of cars in the past, most of which would now be very expensive "classics" but in the day were just cheap cars. However, back to the Ka. I ordered a coilpack and some leads as the first thing but when the coilpack arrived I was dismayed to see that it was completely different to the one on the car! I sent a message to the supplier asking what to do, but when I looked at images on the internet I found that they had supplied the correct part, and the one on the car was an impostor - actually a coil from a Fiesta. I changed the coil and leads and there was still misfiring under load. The cause of this was that the leads are not very friendly to fit. At the coilpack end you have to jiggle the rubber boot about on the towers until the floating connector finds the electrode inside and then push it home. At the plug end, the rubber inner can slide up inside the metal tube making fitting the connector on to the plug difficult - and there is more rubbery indestinctness about knowing when the lead is home. All in all I now have a reliable, nippy and economical car which is fun to drive. My first tip is - if you have a misfire, check your leads at both ends because the connections are difficult to make properly and any gaps weaken the spark. Check that all four at the coil end are fully home, and check at the plug ends that the rubber inner makes its way all the way through the metal tube and is showing at the open end before fitting - if not it is very easy to slide the lead on to the plug leaving a big gap between the connector and the plug inside. I wonder how much has been spent on misfires when it is just this lead problem to blame - have a look if you have a misfire - cheers.
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