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NuclearFusion

Budding Enthusiast
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NuclearFusion

  • Birthday 01/31/1971

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Theo
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fusion 1.4 petrol
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater Manchester
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Entertainment
    Arts & Crafts

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Wigan UK

NuclearFusion's Achievements

  1. I've noticed water build-up in the cup around the driver-side suspension arm adjuster and am keen to stop rainwater collecting there. There is no such build-up at the passenger side suspension. Looking at the passenger side of the car, I noted that the windscreen scuttle panel incorporates a plastic mesh screen moulded into the end of it, to keep the leaves out, but that allows rainwater from the bonnet panel gap to seep through it and down onto a small, black plastic rain gutter clipped into a rectangular slot hole cut put of the interior metal wing. The gutter then seems to take the rainwater out into the front wing panel (where I imagine it then jettisons down where the wheel arch is and onto the road). Looking back at the driver side for comparison, below the plastic grille at that end of the scuttle there is no plastic gutter piece, but I can see there is a similar rectangular slot in the metal internal wing panel. Can anyone advise whether there should be a gutter piece on both sides, or just on the passenger side? I haven't seen one in any under-bonnet pics of other Fusions showing that side of the car (admittedly these are very few and far between). I wouldn't be surprised to discover that Ford had elected not to fit one as there is a lot already going on in that area (wiper motor; steering fluid reservoir, etc.) but it does appear as though the car was originally designed to have a gutter in that space and otherwise it leaves the opportunity open for rainwater to just seep into the engine bay area and corrode the suspension mount (which isn't good). I'm struggling to confirm either way for myself, as my search online for any part details relating to the engine bay gutter has drawn a blank. (If anyone can advise where I can find a comprehensive Ford parts catalogue for the Fusion online, maybe I can find the answer to my query there?) Finally, if you have any suggestions on how to stop the water getting in there, I'm all ears!
  2. Looking in the square relay box under the bonnet, I can see only a single relay in there. I am looking for the air con relay as part of troubleshooting why the compressor is not kicking in. The ETIS repairs manual describes the relay as part of the system but doesn’t make clear where it is or its spec and as usual, turning to YouTube offers a confusing set of US Fusion repair advice (the UK Mondeo). Is that relay the one I’m after? I checked the A/C clutch isn’t seized, and fuses F4, F12 and F38 are all OK. The AC button light comes on when pressed. I also understand the system has a cut-off if a re-gas is required - is that correct? It may turn out that’s all that is needed but I will need to take it elsewhere for that final check.
  3. Thanks for your response - really helpful! New part now ordered. Wanted to be sure it was the stalk and not the centre module.
  4. Hi, my left indicator will not cancel. I can hear a click as I turn the wheel right and another as I turn it further, but it still stays on. I imagine that means a peg slipping or not activating the auto-cancel feature. However, when starting to browse the internet to find what to do to sort this, unfortunately it's hard to get the right answers as the US also has a 'Ford Fusion' (but they mean the Mondeo); and the indicator design looks different on other Fusion models (mine is 2006 but is the facelift version , not Fusion 2 or original version). Can anyone advise for the 2006 facelift version what part may be at fault and whether I can repair/recondition it or must I replace it?
  5. Just thought I would update you on the outcome of my query. Thanks to everyone’s great advice, I picked up a ELM USB switch connector and FORScan with a 2-year extended FORScan licence, along with a blank key with a remote body and also separately bought two key barrels from another provider offering cutting from photos included in the order (as I didn’t want to risk surrendering my only key for the car). Key cutting cost £10 per blank with free delivery. I downloaded FORScan onto my windows laptop and activated my extended licence; downloaded and installed the ELM driver from Tunnelrat’s site (make sure you read the installation instructions properly before you install the driver to your PC); then undertook the programming procedure. This all went well, with the new key chip now coded to the immobiliser. Indeed, the chip is 4D63. The two barrels had been expertly cut and arrived 48 hours after ordering, which was excellent service. Sadly, the remote sent will not program. I swapped the CR2032 battery in case that was the issue, but to no avail. It only cost £8 so they can replace it (and I will hang on to the immobiliser chip). So, I now have my original key, a spare that starts the car and with a barrel that opens the doors and tailgate, and a spare barrel too. Plus, the key cutter advised me of the key code for my records. A great result. Thanks to all members who offered me help to get this sorted.
  6. I’m hoping that is the case. I just wondered whether someone might spot that some obvious functions would be missing or the key was the wrong spec, but maybe that single small chip does it all now!
  7. My next query is, why are the internals of the new key remotes so much simpler than the original Ford keys? Do they still work the same? See the pictures - I compared the internals of my original key (first image) to the pics of the available replacement remotes (second image)on popular online sales sites. And the reverse side of the PCB.
  8. No, actually that is a great answer and really helpful. I wasn’t aware the PAT light would differentiate so that can tell me either way and I am not in a huge hurry so can wait a few days if a chip is needed. The original is glued in and likely does not carry a reference on it.
  9. They didn't mention 2 keys; it was my honest mistake that I saw a pack of documents and two keys on the desk when I went for the test drive and made the assumption, but they weren't for the same car. The key we have works fine; but I want to be sure I have at least one spare ASAP as the car will be driven by my teen son, so that key could easily go wandering down the back of a sofa sometime when I'm not looking!
  10. Can you advise which is the right chip for the immobiliser - is it 4D63 or 4D60? Or does that relate to remote central locking and should I be looking for some other reference to check? If anyone can advise how I can check ahead of buying a spare and getting it cut, that would be great. Already, I'm so pleased to have joined the forum and thanks to everyone so far for your advice!
  11. Hi All, I am a former Ford Fusion owner, back again! First time round, we had a 2003 Fusion 1.6 petrol as our family car when our two kids were toddlers. This time round, we have picked up a 2006 facelift model 1.4 petrol as a first set of wheels for our teen son so he can augment his learner driving practice outside of lessons. It’s a great small car, hugely underrated in the popular media. I personally think its looks have aged better than most competitor small cars. Anyway, happy to meet you all and looking forward to sharing any knowledge I gain and getting your help with making the most of ownership.
  12. Hi, I am sorting the items we have found with our new Ford Fusion purchase. Simple so far: only third brake light working, turned out to be both rear lamps with blown brake elements; rear fog lamp out on one side, turned out the lens had filled with water and corroded the fitting at the bottom; toothpaste on the headlamp lenses to clean them as new, etc. The car was a bargain, so I expected to spend some time (and money). The latest issue is that when the blower is on and turned to MIN, it still blows hot (including with the air con turned on). When I checked under the bonnet I then found the air inlet hose to the airbox is missing. I’ve ordered a replacement so will have it a few days, but wondered if that would explain why the heater blows hot? No airflow sensed, maybe? Does anyone know whether that would also stop aircon kicking in?
  13. Hi All, I am a new Ford Fusion owner. My car is a 2006 1.4 petrol. I thought when buying from a small dealer that it came with two keys but I found out when picking it up that there was only one. What is the best way to get a spare/spares? If I go to a Ford dealer, what is a spare key likely to cost me and is there a cheaper/better alternative to get a programmed, chipped and cut key at the same time?
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