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    Focus Mk2.5 1.6 Petrol
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  1. As per your post about the same thing in a different thread, probably the common instrument cluster solder joint issue. I happen to repair this, here's my service: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915
  2. Indeed, the Mk1 C-max is affected. @stevenm9012 I have a repair service here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314393033915 where you can read about it and double check your cluster against the provided pictures.
  3. Geez, so to summarise... Headlight leveling is not working for either unit, though illumination is Both headlight units were replaced along with "switches" and this made no difference to leveling feature Old right hand headlight unit had water in it, male and female parts of connector corroded [Both sides or just right? Is/are the wiring loom part(s) of the connector(s) still corroded after headlight replacement?] Intermittently the 'right indicator' is 'cutting out', thumping the indicator on the right hand mirror fixes this BCM fuse was found to be blown, was replaced, all fuses checked and now good Intermittently traction control light is illuminating, as of today Car cuts out at times, also something about 'maintaining revs, especially in reverse', which is a long term problem Has halogen bulbs, unknown whether has 'adaptive headlight' system The note about the right indicator cutting out isn't very clear, there are four lights for each direction, the one in the instrument cluster, the one that's part of the headlight unit, the one on the mirror (side light), and the one that's part of the rear light (tail light) unit. You've said that the rear light works, but which of the rest are not working? Your mention of bashing the mirror indicator makes that one work, so is it just that one that's faulty? I think the fact that bashing the mirror indicator fixes it is a huge clue that this problem (assuming its only the side light that's not working) lies with the wiring within the mirror. The indicator system is pretty simple. The indicator part of the stalk is connected directly to the GEM/BCM, and upon selecting right/left the GEM/BCM does two things in response, it sends a message to the instrument cluster (IC) via CAN bus to get the IC to flash the light and emit the ticking noise, and it provides power to the three simple bulb power circuits (front, rear, side) to illuminate them. Headlight leveling, with halogen bulbs and without (?) adaptive headlights (lights move side to side with steering), also appears to be fairly simple circuitry. Each leveling motor has three wires (1) power via fuse F124 or F125 (left/right), which appears to be shared with the parking lights, (2) a ground wire which in both cases goes to ground point G20 via an intermediate connector C111, and (3) a connection to the leveling control, via a join to a single wire within C111. The leveling control is a potentiometer, also with three wires, (1) power via fuse F115, (2) a ground connection to ground point G20, and (3) the potentiometer connection to the levelers, which splits to each of them within C111. Is this control part of the "switch" component you said was replaced? With both leveling units not working, we should look for something they share... If the level control was replaced, and you say all fuses are good, then that would leave the power and ground wires for the control, the shared connection from the control to the levelers, which notably splits into two within C111, and the ground connection to G20 from the levelers from where their ground wires get spliced together (somewhere between G20 and C111). It is interesting that you said that the headlight unit wiring plug/socket was corroded, did you mean for both headlight units, and is the one side of each plug still corroded after headlight replacement? Could this corrosion really be causing identical failure of leveling only on both units? I'm a little sceptical on that... This all really needs to be investigated with a multimeter. (I'm taking these component reference numbers from an old leaked 2008 Focus wiring document). I'm also not quite clear on the cutting out and maintaining revs comment. There could be any number of things causing this type of problem, it could be a wiring issue, as seems to be the case with the above, it could be something mechanically wrong with the engine, or a sensor issue, or I suppose it's possible that the common cracked solder joint issue with the cluster (that I repair) could somehow have something to do with it in terms of how it can interfere with CAN bus communication... Unexpected warning lights coming up on the instrument cluster is one common symptom of the cracked solder joint issue. So maybe the traction control light is a symptom of this. Being a Mk2.5 (Mk2 with facelift) Focus, this is the type of cluster I repair by far the most for the cracked solder joint issue. It's very likely yours has cracked joints, though there's no certainty that it's responsible for any symptoms. (My own was cracked but symptomless). Given the simple circuitry of the leveling mechanism, I'm sceptical.
  4. My cluster repair links, if you're considering my service: cheap one, standard one, premium one
  5. No. they have to be coded every time you swap 1 or more injectors. I'm sure that's what Dave meant. No, white smoke commonly indicates either a coolant leak or simply water vapour, but it can also be fuel vapour.
  6. Just a temporary thing, click it and it'll take you to something calligraphy related. Google do such things all the time, they actually have an in house artist who gets paid just to create such logo variations to celebrate various current and historical events. The current logo on google search is celebrating the women's world cup. They're called 'doodles' and you can find an archive of them here: https://www.google.com/doodles
  7. I'll leave that for someone else to answer. A rebuilt transmission is one that has been taken apart, cleaned up, and had any broken or significantly worn parts replaced. If they are offering to rebuild your transmission then this means they're offering to do exactly this to your existing transmission. If instead they're offering to replace your transmission with a rebuilt one, then it means exactly that, they're going to obtain a used transmission that has already been put through a rebuild process, swap that into your vehicle, and they may keep your old transmission to rebuild and sell to someone else later. From the fact of the sound and the physical jerk it would seem that a damaged part is coming into contact with other moving parts in a way that it is obviously not designed to. Depending upon the nature of the parts, over time more and more wear could perhaps be taking place. Worn parts can also get weaker, getting closer and closer to a point where they may break. A transmission has many fast spinning parts, if a part broke such that it jammed things up, this could potentially cause catastrophic failure, destroying the transmission. So the more you use it, the worse the damage may get, and the greater the risk of much greater damage suddenly occurring. It has already kept going for four years now with this fault, so it could potentially keep going for many more years, but on the other hand it could suddenly suffer catastrophic failure tomorrow. Naturally the sooner you get it repaired the greater the likelihood of parts being salvageable. I can only speak generally, not knowing what exactly is wrong with it. If you want to keep using it until it breaks, that's entirely up to you, but it may well end up costing you more to fix it, and it may break at a really inconvenient time, or even in such circumstances that your life is put in peril. Hundreds to thousands of pounds/dollars. It will partly depend upon the model. $6000 seems very steep though and I expect there's a good chance you can find a much better deal. Did the other companies not give an indication of their pricing (best case, worst case)? The shops advising to get it repaired immediately may just be eager to take your money, or they may want to fix it for you before the damage gets any worse. The one saying you can just use it until it breaks, then fix it, may consider the problem to not be particularly serious, or may not be desperate for the money and may not care if running it into the ground ends up with you having a larger repair bill.
  8. If it's this kind (or the shorter screen variant), then yes: But if it's this kind then no:
  9. No. I was in discussions with someone to do it for them, and I did a lot of research into it to prepare, but the arrangement ultimately fell through.
  10. Actually you really don't. A big chunk of that tool cost (£600+) will no doubt have been for a 'torque multiplier' (and specifically one built to Ford's specification), right? You don't actually need one, all it does is make things easier. The steps involving the torque multiplier call for first tightening to 60Nm then 5x 90-degrees. The prescribed torque multiplier works on a 5:1 ratio, so without the multiplier you can translate this to 300Nm then 1x 90-degrees. You can get a 1/2" torque wrench that covers 300Nm for about £80. For the final 90-degree angle you may manage with a 1/2" breaker bar, but best to get a 3/4" one. You can get a 1-meter 3/4" breaker bar for about £30, and a socket for it for about £6. I have seen it done this way, and the Haynes manual also talks about this as an alternative to the torque multiplier method. You also need a suitable timing tool kit, which can be picked up on ebay for about £50, and you may need a blowtorch for dealing with the sometimes seized on lower AC pump bolt (£35-80). You may also need the blowtorch and/or other implements for difficult exhaust bolts. So you really only NEED to spend about £200-250 on tools, assuming that you have all of the basics already.
  11. If you don't get an answer, get the Haynes manual.
  12. Why do you suspect the head gasket or turbo? Are you assuming that the white smoke equates to burning of coolant and thus suspecting a coolant leak in one of these two locations? I don't yet have the commonly associated causes of differently coloured smoke engraved into my brain, so I had to look it up, and although white smoke is most commonly indeed associated with burning of coolant, there are other causes too; White smoke that stinks of fuel could actually be unburnt vaporised fuel, supposedly. In fact I came across a discussion about an ecoboost, similar/same symptoms, plus a couple of DTCs, that turned out to have a bad fuel injector. If one or more of your fuel injectors were misbehaving, wetting the spark plugs and thus interfering with their ability to ignite the air-fuel mixture, could this not thus result in a white "smoke" stinking of fuel? (There's also mention of black smoke sometimes being from an overly fuel rich mixture, but in that case the mixture is still being ignited). Or alternatively could there be an issue with one or more sparkplugs / coils? This explanation also accounts for the lack of power, whereas the idea of burning coolant accounts for neither the lack of power nor the fuel smell.
  13. 1) New does not always mean good. 2) The circuit referenced as faulty does not just consist of the solenoid, there's also the wires, the plugs, and ground connections. An issue of any of these could be at fault rather than the solenoid itself.
  14. What do you mean by "the backlight"? The white LED gauge backlighting, or the backlighting for the LCD? Which fuse did you replace? The cluster (at least the mk2.5 model) has three "power" wires (pins 4, 15 and 32), which pass through fuses F107, F108 and F114 respectively. Additionally power for white LED gauge backlighting comes in on pin 9 from the lighting switch assembly, which involves a dimmer switch (as unofix points out) along with a transistor (which I'm uncertain about), and can be traced back through fuse F103. However this circuit is only complete when the light switch is in sidelight or headlight position. This latter detail confuses me since if I go out to my car right now, leave the light switch in off position, and turn the ignition to position 2, the instrument cluster is illuminated, so I wonder if maybe the cluster internally turns it on regardless of light switch position during certain times of the day? Just for fun here's a demonstration of power supplied on both pins 32 (on which power is normally supplied unconditionally), and pin 9 (illumination): (Ignore the LCD, it's a dead one and is just sitting there to reduce glare from its backlighting).
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