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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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About digidash

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    Feet Under The Table

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    bradford, w. yorks
  1. 2004 Ford Fiesta Non Starting

    i doubt immo fault as you would still have dash lights. does anything else work (lights/radio/horn/wipers) i would guess if lights work ign relay/fuse or switch. if no lights main earth or lives, regards steve
  2. Fuel In Oil And Ticking Noise

    petrol is used co clean/remove oil from parts.....if you have petrol in your oil your engine isn't getting proper lubrication and this is probably causing the ticking noise (tappets-camshafts) get this sorted IMMEDIATELY as poor lubrication can damage pistons, block, crankshaft, camshafts, valves basically you will need a new engine!! please dont drive this car, get it to a garage asap. tell them not to add engine flush to the oil thats in but change oil and filter 1st....then find cause of contamination.... then add flush, & change oil & filter again and cross fingers its caught in time. the alternative is to run it with the petrol/oil mix until engine dies then pay for a new engine & fitting!!! good luck & regards steve
  3. sueb, return this car for a refund QUICK. look at sale of goods act, fit for purpose or phone trading standards for free advice. this car will cost you money (probably just after warranty runs out) if it wont start tell garage to collect it (im assuming repairing garage is the same one you bought it from?) pappa bear, sorry to hear your another victim of bosch pump failiure. if the tank and low pressure fuel lines were not removed and cleaned please get it done now. the problem on these is... 1, pump roller bearing break down and the metal particles travel up to injectors and down return lines back to tank, then back upto pump & injectors & back to tank. 2, injectors become damaged so garages replace pump injectors and filter 3 if garage doesn't remove tank & lines for cleaning you will end up back at square one. don't rely on filter to protect your engine spend a little now and class it as prevention being better than cure regards steve
  4. Eac Fail. Flashing Display

    hi, the fault will be stored in ecu. read my post (link below) for a better understanding of eac fail, regards steve
  5. Throttle Body Removal Zetec S

    i would do clutch switch and check for air leaks with carb cleaner or try with maf disconnected, but my advice would be pay a garage £15 ish to scan for fault codes and read live data. post codes and i can help you, regards steve
  6. id put money on turbo ive got one to do tomorrow. problem is oil thickens like sludge and turbo supply pipe and oil pick up in sump starts to get blocked resulting in turbo being starved of oil, turbo seals failing and usually ending up with a snapped turbo shaft. PLEASE TAKE NOTE most garages will buy and fit a recon turbo....shortly after SNAP!! another turbo needed. CORRECT REPAIR remove sump and clean pickup and pan>fabricate and join turbo supply and return pipes>flush engine and change oil and filter as many times as needed until the oil being drained is still golden. fit new turbo oil feed pipe and banjo bolts>fill turbo with oil and crank engine (without starting) until oil produced from turbo feed pipe>connect feed pipe to turbo>connect a piece of pipe to turbo oil return and run it down into a measuring jug>start car like this and allow to idle for 60 seconds (ford quote 300mls but you should have more like 400mls) pour oil back in car and test 3 times. if happy reconnect pipe check oil level and leave ticking over for half hour.(make sure car has water and cooling fan works and keep an eye on temp) after 30 mins turn off-recheck oil level-cross fingers and road test. dont thrash car hard for a thousand miles ish. the alternative to this method is as follows.....buy and fit new turbo, drive car until it snaps, :( buy and fit another turbo THEN FOLLOW MY ADVICE. if you are paying a garage to fix your car ask what they will do....if they say just fit new turbo find another garage that knows ford tdci and mitsubishi turbo combination or print this page and give it as a works instruction to garage. mods consider making a sticky with this how-to, regards steve
  7. Throttle Body Removal Zetec S

    hi, you might open a can of worms as these sometimes dont re-calibrate themselves and it may need to go on ids to be reset....what problems are you having? accurate description will ensure you get best advice before doing anything to your car. if you decide to clean it use carb cleaner, remove air intake and clean throttle plate and surround. DONT use a screwdriver etc to open throttle plate as a deep scratch will cause more problems, regards steve
  8. you need the ecu software updating see below... Should a customer express concern about low idle speed (500-700 rpm) and or no throttle repsonse for between 2 second and 3 minutes depending on vehicle, the probable cause is the minimum drive pulse (MDP) of the injectors, which has drifted excessively at low rail pressure (less than 400 bar). This causes a reduction in fuel delivery versus demand and stops the engine reaching the required idle speed in an acceptable time. The PCM does not detect the excessive MDP drift because the strategy does not learn the MDP at the pressures where the problem occurs. After some time the idle speed will return to normal (800 rpm) and throttle repsonse will be obtained. This concern can occur when the engine is hot or cold. The issue is recurring. To rectify this concern a new calibration has been released for service which will vary the quantity of fuel demanded during engine cranking in order to reach the idle latch speed in an acceptable time. regards steve
  9. fords £2000 quote will be from experience. the pumps on these are crap, the roller bearings break down and the metal particles travel round fuel return lines>into tank>then back up to block or damage injectors. are you saying ford did put it on machine or just quoted? you need someone who knows their stuff with these engines,i would agree that a cam sensor could be the fault but before you run out and buy one please read my full post. also a fuel pressure sensor connector could be the cause. try wiggling connector with engine ticking over to see if it cuts out. if it does there is a modified connector available 1st job scan with ids for codes. if any fuel faults are logged monitor fuel system in live data. note down fuel info. 2nd do a leak off test and make a note of readings 3rd a diesel sample needs to be checked for metalic particles....if found drop tank and flush thouroughly tank, fuel lines including return, common rail and injector pipes and filter housing. replace filter even if not due. 4th update pcm and injector drive module software and reset learned values 5th do another leak off test and compare readings. if a suspect injector found replace and code in just that one. as your car is running i would do the fuel sample regardless of codes as preventing damage on this fuel system will save you a FORTUNE. regards steve
  10. cmax auto gearbox swap

    DO NOT BUY A GEARBOX!!! give me a call office hours for advice (manufacturer not dealers) advises updates on modules and updated sensor NOT NEW BOX, regards steve ps please read this full thread florida1 has had a ford dealer fit a new gearbox and £2000 of other parts and it still doesnt work!!! i can arrange national collection for anyone not wanting to drive to bradford. the repair would take a full day and would need a couple of days notice to order parts. it would cost a fraction of what ford quote for an un-needed gearbox. thanks steve
  11. Ford Ka Abs Ecu Problem

    did the dealer take car on testdrive with pc hooked up? the ecu has a problem that incorrectly shows vss/abs problems which can lead to an inexperienced tech condeming abs ecu. did they give you a fault code? regards steve
  12. 04 Mondeo Tdci Problem - Please Help!

    the file didnt attatch. please pm me your email address and a note re injector coding and ill send you the pdf, thanks steve
  13. 04 Mondeo Tdci Problem - Please Help!

    i think 2 things. this car has a seperate injector drive module and the software version on this and the ecu needs updating. also many people code injectors as their physical number ie 1 2 3 4 when they should be done in firing order. if my attatchment works it would be worth showing it to whoever coded your injectors. i would find a good auto-electrician who has ford ids and they should do your updates and coding for £50. i got called out to one recently that had been to 2 diesel specialists up here and 1 in london...they fitted 2 new pumps and 12 injectors between them and just about every sensor on the engine. finally the garage called me and the car was running within the hour after being a non runner for over a year. without ids i feel you will end up going down the same road as this guy did so if you have already been to fords and paid them they need to finish the job you paid them for ie..perform software updates in ecu and injector drive module and code in the injectors. good luck and best wishes, steve
  14. Mondeo Tdci Injectors

    my best advice is have it scanned for fault codes (there will definately be some) before agreeing for someone to do "diagnostics" ask if they monitor live data once codes extracted. if they dont they dont understand diagnostics so you should go elswhere as they will probably say "you have 3 codes so you need these 3 sensors" then when the cars no better it will be "well thats what the scanner said was wrong with your car" make sure you take pen&paper with you and let us know what codes are stored. personally (and this is by no means a substitute for having someone physically examine you car)my opinion is over night oil seeps down the side of your valves into cylinders. when you start it on a morning apart from measured fuel/air the engine has to burn this extra ingredient off before it can accurately be monitored and adjusted by the ecu. hence blue smoke on warm up. also if you have a multimeter measure batt volts before/during/ and after cranking. do the volts fall low when starting and recover just before engine stabelises? let us all know how you get on, regards steve
  15. search ebay for compression tester. about a tenner delivered for a cheap one but i would advise one with a solid extension bar. i charge to do a compression test so if you give £20 for one it will earn its money back in no time. you will find yourself using it as routine before too long. also eg; very slight misfire a proper comp test will show if a cylinder slightly lower than the other 3. much quicker than checking all sensors and wiring trying to find a fault thats actually mechanical, regards steve