alexp999

Change the wet belt asap if it’s not been done already. 

100PS 5 speed or 125 PS 6 speed?

The 5 speed doesn't tolerate remaps well.

1 hour ago, JackosXDA said:

All versions or just Titanium?

EcoBoost 2.3 in ST gets hot ridiculously fast. I was sure it has resistive heater equiped.

The notes I had were in German and translated so looking back I'm not 100% sure if it was a bad translation and if it is parking or aux heater. I'm sure I've seen both. Probably can see from asbuilt/forscan if it is fitted.

There will be a fault logged. If you have access to a windows laptop grap a Vlinker FS and try Forscan. 

9 minutes ago, northern_nubie said:

I bought my MK4 Titanium Style 1.0 Ecoboost 125PS petrol manual, new, just over a year ago. First car I've bought new. Prior to that I had the same model (but not Style) 2018 plate, which I bought used.

Overall thoughts, moans, etc, from an amateur.

Plus side:

It's generally great to drive. Fun handling, as many reviewers put it. In the right gear, at the right revs, it really shifts. I look forward to driving it. Very comfortable ride. I'm no fan of larger, sports wheels, so the 16 inch wheels really suit me.

I think the exterior styling is very good. Inside, not too bad. And the Titanium Style luckily doesn't have a shiny/reflective strip on the dash - another plus for me.

In all, I'm content with it, but some things continue to irritate, some more than others...

Less good:

Compared to other cars, the gear stick position for each gear is further to the left. Not sure why. But I've got used it.

After about the first 2000 miles (currently only 6000 on the clock) the faint clunk appeared, which I also noticed on the used Titanium I had. Not a fault. Seems to be the way it's designed, but I don't experience it on other cars from other manufacturers. When releasing the clutch pedal when changing from first gear to second, and less so from second to third, there's a faint clunk from beneath the gear box area, especially at low or moderate revs. Sort of got used to it now, and I increase the revs a bit.

The engine is amazing for its size, but on the flat, it doesn't really like being in fourth gear until the speed is about 33 mph. Try it at 30mph and you can tell from the sound that it ideally should be in third gear. My previous cars were a bit older and had larger engines, so maybe its simply down to engine size, and nothing to do with engine type.

The radio knob is pretty poor. Twist it and it feels great, but then half a turn later it's stiffer, or is dragging inside, without the normal feel to it. Hard to explain. But then try it again a few second later and it's okay. Odd.

The cornering (not adaptive) headlamps are pointless and annoying. Taking advice from someone here, as the evenings have got darker I've tried leaving on the front fog lights (cornering lights are just the front fogs switching on automatically when turning the steering wheel enough). I'll experiment more, but the fogs light up quite a lot of the road on the right. Maybe I'll get used to that. Cornering lights cannot be disabled, alas.

Most frustrating, by far, in autumn, winter, spring: the climate control. Example: 10 degrees outside and you have it set to 20 degrees. In other cars that would be more than warm enough and it would reach roughly the right temperature fairly quickly. Not in the Focus. After about 20 minutes the vents start blowing barely luke warm air quite strongly, even though the car is nowhere near 20 degrees. The thermostat seems poor. So you knock up the temperature setting to say 23 or higher. Not long after it again strongly blows luke warm air, even on the lowest strength setting. So I turn down the wheels near the vents. Constantly wrestling with it except in summer. And the Auto setting seems no different to not having it in Auto. I think I'd prefer just aircon rather than climate control.  In summer the Lo (cold) setting is great. Nice and cool.

(This is long, but I wanted to make some comprehensive comments after 1 year of ownership.)

 

The issue with the climate being poor at heating is because Ford removed the auxilliary resistive heater early 2020 as a cost cutting measure.

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Just checked 0-60 on the Octavia and it just scrapes 10 seconds which really isn't bad for a car of that size.  Obviously not comparable to the 180bhp Focus though lol.

The Octavia is just a golf with a boot and Skoda badge though*

*And better interior 😛

It might be the wrong size phyiscally, but a larger battery as long as it is still EFB is completely fine electrically.

You can program the car so that it better understands the capacity when you fit a larger battery, but at best it makes a few percent difference to the calculated SoC for the Stop/Start.

The voltage is exactly the same regardless of capacity.

The AA shouldn't fit a battery that doesn't physically fit, but just in terms of capacity, that will cause no issues.

If it’s a 1.0 then wet belt is due next year. £1500 ish to change. 
 

Low mileage if anything is worse for the wet belt as it could mean the engine rarely got hot enough. 

6 minutes ago, DaveT70 said:

You should still be in warranty?

 

Nearly 10 months in to 2023, not necessarily.

Cost about £600 for my rear bumper to be repaired and re sprayed (including the black trim part) if you can get away with just the blue parts it should be less. They have to do the whole bumper if it’s a proper job. 

I’ve bought mine from eBay. Maybe the fakes are better than the genuine ones. 😄

22 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

There's something odd going on with Bosch blades.  I stopped using them around 6/7 years ago after a couple of poor quality sets.  The internet still seems to be divided about whether they're good quality or not.  Perhaps they just have poor quality control so some batches are better than others... 🤔

Probably a lot of fakes around too. 

8 hours ago, iantt said:

https://www.thedrive.com/news/self-clogging-ford-oil-pumps-lead-feds-to-investigate-1-0-liter-ecoboost-engines

Really? Only now realising? 

That’s about the oil pump belt. Not the wet cam belt though. 

I’ve had Bosch on mine for about 3.5 years now not had any issues. 
 

The OEM ones squeaked from factory. 

I got Bosch A089S for mine. 

Just now, StephenFord said:

My dashcam is powered by a 12v socket, but wiring fully concealed - I'm not an animal LOL

I mean around the 12v socket, mine is hardwired, you don't see any wiring, plugs or sockets other than the bit coming down from the headliner and it keeps the 12v socket free for other things.

Just now, jimbojambojumbo said:

It will be communicating otherwise the camera wouldn’t work when he 1st turns it on and the ford logo would not show 

It shouldn't be possible to brick the APIM during a normal update, the system updates between two partitions, so even if it was interupted it should have the old system partition to boot from.

I wonder if the NAND has just died during writing.

Cyanlabs software can’t help you unbrick an APIM. It can only help you with updating or downgrading software. The system has to be able to read the usb and install the files off it. 
 

I would try Forscan and see if the firmware of the apim is still communicating on canbus. 

Most people who hardwire do it to hide the wiring. 

Even when Ford do release map updates they are always from 12 months earlier. 
 

If you want up to date maps then use CarPlay or android auto. 

1.0 or 1.6?

How long have you had the car, has it always done this or used to be ok and started recently?

1 hour ago, tazzman600 said:

Hi Scott. Excuse my ignorance. Apple Carplay. Does it need to be connected to your phone by a cable or can it be connected over the air i.e Bluetooth?

My only experience with this new fangled technology lol is Android Auto. I've only used it in a Mercedes van. I found i had to have the WiFi and mobile data turned on my phone and then connection became automatic. No cable. 

So does Carplay work the same i wonder?

On Sync 3 it is wired only. But it still connects via bluetooth. USB is used for the video and audio feed. 

Have you got another USB port in your car you can try OP?

It was an optional extra in 2012 and standard only on some trim levels. But you should be able to turn it on with Forscan if it’s not included. I did on my mums 2012 Focus. 

How clean is the oil? 

How old is it? Have you got another you can try? Have you got a friend or family member you can see if their phone is ok?