Micro

True Ford Enthusiast
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Micro last won the day on July 2

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About Micro

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ted
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Skoda Octavia Estate 4x4
  • Ford Year
    2016
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Worcestershire

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  1. That's an old school Bolero isn't it? I think the only option you have for organisation is to sort into Folders - you might have to duplicate tracks to get it to do what you want (re: genre based playback, etc). The advantage you have is that I don't think your radio is built into your car so much except for the parking sensors - so you may find that an aftermarket radio might give you more control than the OEM one. As you get newer, the radio is more and more integrated to the point that the new radios are completely separate screen / control units!
  2. Exactly, the engine would increase fuelling to the engine as it detected a much higher engine load being applied, to maintain RPM and prevent stalling. The same happens when you engage your AC and the revs increase slightly (as well as giving the compressor some more oomph). So if you are travelling along with no acceleration, and turn the wheel to the right, it also increases your speed? Personally i'd want to break the system up - isolate the power steering from the engine and see if it still does it - but iirc your engine has the stretchy belts so easier said than done. Is your car a 1.6 Petrol auto? There is an "Engine Load" value on OBD2 if you have a tool that can read this at present - that might shed some light.
  3. My Focus 1.6 was an entirely hydraulic system, no electronic component at all as far as I am aware, as I fully suspect the OP's system also is.
  4. At a standstill, my Focus used to rev up a little especially if you turned full lock. I wonder if you have a blockage (or leak) inside your steering rack which is causing the pump to have to work extremely hard to keep pressure. Do the revs dip slightly at all before rising up?
  5. I suppose it depends how far you want to go with it? For £120 a local place to me does full alloy wheel refurbishment for 4 wheels with tyres on. I imagine you might get a decent result if you were to lightly sand the scuffed areas and put a little touch-up paint/lacquer on which would stop the dirt sticking so readily - but to fully fix it you would need to build up the kerbed areas to the same level as the rest of the rim.
  6. The orange one? Iirc it is a permanent live feed - i used it to power my rear power socket.
  7. Do your alloys need protecting? If you have 5 stud wheels I'd also replace the locking wheel nuts before it corrodes/ gets damaged by tyre fitters with inappropriate use of the zap zap gun. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  8. Dealer/trader or private? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  9. I think the seller has either chosen the wrong picture, or maybe just too lazy to take one of the right product 😛
  10. I don't think they'll give you any more light for the reversing camera Vs just illuminating your hatch lid [emoji39] Have a look for Stoneys? Post on Cree reversing led bulbs, they're a bit pricier but holy moly the light output. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  11. Do you have your indicator on? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  12. Do you have any issues with the car? Sometimes these error codes happen and are of no consequence except for if there is an issue you're trying to track down. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  13. If they quote for fixing it, then I'd expect them to fix it. If they only provide an estimate or a quote for fitting a new bcm then you'll potentially need to pay for more work. I'd go and watch some videos by South Main Auto on YouTube, he's really easy to pick stuff up from and goes through in detail about diagnosing stuff instead of throwing parts at it. An easy way to find out what the setup is on your car, can you see what wires (size, colour, etc) go to the motors? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  14. He was theorizing. Simply put - the motors get power and a computer signal telling them what to do. On older systems (on the Mk2/2.5), the power to the motors was controlled by relays (hence the "clicking" heard - it happened occasionally that these relays broke, but they were not easily replaceable items). On your car, if the wiring diagram is correct, it doesn't actually have any relays to go wrong. I thought the heated windscreen/washer jets were standard fit on all Fords - there will be a thin rubber tube and some wiring to your washer jets (if no bonnet liner) visible when you are under the bonnet. You may be able to feel them warm up. This will tell you if a power/ground source is good as it shares some wiring with the wipers (i will have to look at the diagram again to confirm). If there is no power, or grounds, at the motors (if the modules are in the motors), then this will be the problem according to the wiring diagram. You can't run a motor from a computer signal without power. If there is power and ground at the motors, but no computer signal (or a damaged/faulty module receiving the correct computer signal), then you will have to look at whether the BCM is sending the right signal to the motors. If signal is reaching the first motor, the first motors module may be damaged and then not sending that signal to the second motor. If there is no signal from the BCM, you will need to see if the signal is being pulled down/up by a short to ground/power somewhere (broken/chaffed wire/faulty module), or whether the BCM is actually faulty. You don't want to replace the BCM without being certain that it is the issue, if it's not, it's an expensive mistake. This is all only if the modules are actually present in the motors, if they're a separate item then there will be additional circuitry to consider.
  15. If it's the same motor spacing as a different car with a standard linkage, you might be able to transplant the whole motor / linkage assembly over and do what you're suggesting!