n_hudson

Budding Enthusiast
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About n_hudson

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Nick
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI Titanium X
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Bedfordshire

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  1. I had a cluck that turned out to be play in the drivers side driveshaft. Would make a clunk noise just once when pulling away or when accelerating.
  2. The car is fixed. It drives fantastic. Very quiet and crisp gear changes. It was the input shaft bearing and was very close to failure! To be honest, I rarely have the radio off or windows down, so I'm glad I caught the noise and was able to find the issue from all the great info online.
  3. Cheers ppl I guess I’ll be trading in or setting it on fire soon
  4. Having my gearbox rebuilt and the garage have asked when I last had the DMF and clutch replaced as its full of clutch dust. They don't do clutches themselves, so I'm guessing they aren't trying to rip me off. I only had the flywheel and clutch and associated bits and bobs replaced by FORD 20k ago, so I'm concerned that I'll need to drop more money into the car in the next 12 months. I read there's a firmware update, but I would assumed being serviced by ford, it would have been given all updates as standard.
  5. Well, I've bit the bullet and having a rebuild at an independent gearbox specialist. They seem to agree after hearing the noise that it's likely the input shaft bearing and will replace that, plus one other and all seals and fluids. I'm not sure of the pricing, but I'll be paying £724 with removal, rebuild (+3-4 synchromesh) and refit. I'll report back when I get the car back on the road
  6. Anyone have any further ideas on cost/work required? Cheers!
  7. Any idea on what work it entails? Is it a gearbox strip down job or simple bolt off, pull bearing, press, bolt back up? I think there might also be a metal knocking noise that only occurs at low revs, when the engine labours the most. I thought it was a heat shield or maybe a loose brake pad rattling, but couldn't find anything. I assuming it might be related to this bearing issue.
  8. The car is on 88k clutch, slave etc replaced by Ford circa 20k ago. Mk3 TDCI 1.6 115 I've noticed that the gearbox/clutch makes a whining noise when the pedal is released, with the pedal pressed in, the noise goes. It sounds like what I can only describe as an old dynamo...? I've only really noticed it since I had the drivers side driveshaft replaced. The noise is 100% from the passenger side, which I assume is the gearbox side. Reading the internet, it could be anything... So hoping someone may have had a similar issue or could shed some light on it? I'm thinking "Input Shaft Bearing"...
  9. Nope its not empty (Yet). I can see the fluorescent dye on the condenser, its at the front bottom right corner, the side with the air drier unit attached. So I can assume at the moment it's not leaking from a seal or a pipe and it is actually the condenser. I didn't\couldnt see dye anywhere else within the engine bay. I think it must have happened driving too close to a salt spreader on the motorway during the winter... The condensers seem pretty cheap new £60-100 from the usual online places. I might just bite the bullet and get a garage to do it.
  10. Well, I had a look myself this morning, borrowing a black light torch(?) and there is glowing green dye in a very random place (to me). The dye is at the front bottom right corner looking when looking at the front of the car (passengers side). I don't see any dents, bends or distortion of the fins and it's hidden behind a hardened part of the bumper where it is a good 45' off from the centre vent. It doesn't appear to be leaking down from anywhere else and is focused on the bottom corner area. How easy is it to replace the condenser on the drive on the focus? I've done any empty one before on an old vectra, but that was a front bumper off, drop the radpack job.
  11. Sorry if this has been posted before... As the title suggests, I must have a small leak in the aircon system. It fills and holds pressure but after 6-8+ weeks, an audible hiss develops behind behind the dash, more the drivers side and the aircon is no longer as cold as it was. Eventually the pressure is so low the compressor no longer engages requiring a full refill. I have had the compressor and seals replaced, a high pressure nitrogen test and a dark light test looking for leaking dye... nothing shows up a leak and its just becoming expensive. I noticed you can get cans of leak stopper for the aircon system and I was wondering if anyone had tried anything like that before? As its a small leak, I assume from reading online reviews it might work? Cheers in advance!
  12. After a few hours of a "hissing" aircon system it no longer makes any noise, bonus. Although, no noticeably cold air, but it's not exactly hot outside right now. Problem, I'm not sure when the compressor clutch should engage, would it engage all the time? Is there an ambient outside temp when it won't engage, so as not to be needlessly using the aircon? I can see the pulley turning, but the clutch doesn't. Is this likely to be a low pressure lock out? Can I bypass the relay/fuse to see if it does engage before I spend money out on a regas? Cheers!
  13. I had an issue changing from 1st to 2nd, but only once I had moved the car forward, engine off, having not moved, no noise at all when changing gears. I had the drivers side driveshaft replaced and the knock noise changing from 1st to 2nd has now gone. The video below is prior to having it replaced. It may have been totally unrelated, it could have been a byproduct and fixed when they put the car back together, but my knock has gone and the gearbox changes feels like new.
  14. Focus Mk3 TDCI. Another aircon question, must be the time of year? LOL When I use the aircon, there is a (loud enough) hissing sound which sounds like its behind the dash, its intermittent, but always there when the compressor is turned on. I had the aircon refilled 2 years ago after having the aircon radiator (condenser?) changed, I'm not sure if it was holed or not, but visually it looked battered. The guys did have "issues" filling the system up, but I didn't really have the upmost confidence in them anyway, but it was nice and cold after. I hear the machine tests they run on vacuum can actually give false readings and seal leaks while the vacuum is running? It may be my own fault as I hardly use the aircon. Before I pay and have the system leak tested and then refilled, just to have it not work again in a year or two, anything ideas on the noise?
  15. *Following on from this thread - I'm not sure if this was a REAL fix, but they do work, where they didn't before. To remove the headlamp washer jets, you DONT need to take the whole bumper off, just remove the xenon light fittings. When the lights are out, gently pull the washer heads forward with the help of the clipped on bumper covers. CAREFULLY unclip them and let them retract \ push them back in. From inside the bumper, the washers are held onto the bumper with a large plastic bracket, give this a wiggle and push down and inwards towards the engine bay, they should easily slide out. The washer jet hose is then held on with a small plastic clip at the 90' join. Use a small flat screwdriver and gently prise it out but NOT OFF... don't let it slip off. The washer jet will now pull away from the hose. The drivers side is a bugger as its a lot shorter with much less space to move around. The large plastic bumper mounting does come off and the washer jet itself seems to be a universal type, but I couldn't see a part number on it. Taking the mount off was how I accidentally noticed the "possible" fix for the washers not retracting into the bumper. When giving it a wiggle and blast with hot water, a significant amount of crud came out from where the yellow circle on the image is. I'm not in way sure how the jet works, but the hose mount part does turn separately to the piston and the part held by the bumper mount. (So 3x separate moving parts) So it could be a case of a pressure release valve or similar? Before removing the dirt and debris, even after cleaning, pulling, pushing, the piston end it was slow to retract, if it did at all, but since cleaning all that crud away it shoots back in with no drag. To confirm the fix, I partly installed the washer through the bumper and connected the loom to the lights and tested them out. They now work perfectly. Refitting is a reversal of taking them out.