n_hudson

Budding Enthusiast
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About n_hudson

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Nick
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI Titanium X
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Bedfordshire

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  1. Nope its not empty (Yet). I can see the fluorescent dye on the condenser, its at the front bottom right corner, the side with the air drier unit attached. So I can assume at the moment it's not leaking from a seal or a pipe and it is actually the condenser. I didn't\couldnt see dye anywhere else within the engine bay. I think it must have happened driving too close to a salt spreader on the motorway during the winter... The condensers seem pretty cheap new £60-100 from the usual online places. I might just bite the bullet and get a garage to do it.
  2. Well, I had a look myself this morning, borrowing a black light torch(?) and there is glowing green dye in a very random place (to me). The dye is at the front bottom right corner looking when looking at the front of the car (passengers side). I don't see any dents, bends or distortion of the fins and it's hidden behind a hardened part of the bumper where it is a good 45' off from the centre vent. It doesn't appear to be leaking down from anywhere else and is focused on the bottom corner area. How easy is it to replace the condenser on the drive on the focus? I've done any empty one before on an old vectra, but that was a front bumper off, drop the radpack job.
  3. Sorry if this has been posted before... As the title suggests, I must have a small leak in the aircon system. It fills and holds pressure but after 6-8+ weeks, an audible hiss develops behind behind the dash, more the drivers side and the aircon is no longer as cold as it was. Eventually the pressure is so low the compressor no longer engages requiring a full refill. I have had the compressor and seals replaced, a high pressure nitrogen test and a dark light test looking for leaking dye... nothing shows up a leak and its just becoming expensive. I noticed you can get cans of leak stopper for the aircon system and I was wondering if anyone had tried anything like that before? As its a small leak, I assume from reading online reviews it might work? Cheers in advance!
  4. After a few hours of a "hissing" aircon system it no longer makes any noise, bonus. Although, no noticeably cold air, but it's not exactly hot outside right now. Problem, I'm not sure when the compressor clutch should engage, would it engage all the time? Is there an ambient outside temp when it won't engage, so as not to be needlessly using the aircon? I can see the pulley turning, but the clutch doesn't. Is this likely to be a low pressure lock out? Can I bypass the relay/fuse to see if it does engage before I spend money out on a regas? Cheers!
  5. I had an issue changing from 1st to 2nd, but only once I had moved the car forward, engine off, having not moved, no noise at all when changing gears. I had the drivers side driveshaft replaced and the knock noise changing from 1st to 2nd has now gone. The video below is prior to having it replaced. It may have been totally unrelated, it could have been a byproduct and fixed when they put the car back together, but my knock has gone and the gearbox changes feels like new.
  6. Focus Mk3 TDCI. Another aircon question, must be the time of year? LOL When I use the aircon, there is a (loud enough) hissing sound which sounds like its behind the dash, its intermittent, but always there when the compressor is turned on. I had the aircon refilled 2 years ago after having the aircon radiator (condenser?) changed, I'm not sure if it was holed or not, but visually it looked battered. The guys did have "issues" filling the system up, but I didn't really have the upmost confidence in them anyway, but it was nice and cold after. I hear the machine tests they run on vacuum can actually give false readings and seal leaks while the vacuum is running? It may be my own fault as I hardly use the aircon. Before I pay and have the system leak tested and then refilled, just to have it not work again in a year or two, anything ideas on the noise?
  7. *Following on from this thread - I'm not sure if this was a REAL fix, but they do work, where they didn't before. To remove the headlamp washer jets, you DONT need to take the whole bumper off, just remove the xenon light fittings. When the lights are out, gently pull the washer heads forward with the help of the clipped on bumper covers. CAREFULLY unclip them and let them retract \ push them back in. From inside the bumper, the washers are held onto the bumper with a large plastic bracket, give this a wiggle and push down and inwards towards the engine bay, they should easily slide out. The washer jet hose is then held on with a small plastic clip at the 90' join. Use a small flat screwdriver and gently prise it out but NOT OFF... don't let it slip off. The washer jet will now pull away from the hose. The drivers side is a bugger as its a lot shorter with much less space to move around. The large plastic bumper mounting does come off and the washer jet itself seems to be a universal type, but I couldn't see a part number on it. Taking the mount off was how I accidentally noticed the "possible" fix for the washers not retracting into the bumper. When giving it a wiggle and blast with hot water, a significant amount of crud came out from where the yellow circle on the image is. I'm not in way sure how the jet works, but the hose mount part does turn separately to the piston and the part held by the bumper mount. (So 3x separate moving parts) So it could be a case of a pressure release valve or similar? Before removing the dirt and debris, even after cleaning, pulling, pushing, the piston end it was slow to retract, if it did at all, but since cleaning all that crud away it shoots back in with no drag. To confirm the fix, I partly installed the washer through the bumper and connected the loom to the lights and tested them out. They now work perfectly. Refitting is a reversal of taking them out.
  8. I've tried to use silicone spray and no joy, the worst one just stays were it is. I think its screwed up inside from the cold. Does anyone have any diagrams of how they are fitted and / or how they go together. I'm thinking I might have to strip it and replace the return spring, maybe, if there is one? I looked on line and they seem blooming expensive, around £130 each? I've seen them online here - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CAPQX-Headlight-Washer-Nozzle-Jet-For-Ford-Focus-MK3-2012-2013-2014-2015-headlamp-Water-Spray/32853138151.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.260.7ab13c00mwK1uf - From CHINA of course of all places for £30 a pair???
  9. I've taken the discs off and used a wire brush \ low speed drill attachment and cleaned them up, although to be honest the were very clean already. There seems to be the slightest of rubbing still.
  10. I've cleaned them up, the passenger side seems to have made no difference. Any idea how they retract? Are they spring "powered" to return?
  11. I had the driveshaft replace and its like a new car. Gear changes are fantastic, previously a clunk from 1st to 2nd, and the car feels a lot tighter. Although, now I think I have a bit of disc runout as the drivers side disc seems to be dragging in one spot. Any ideas how I can get that sorted, I just had new discs and pads fitted! lol
  12. I do think it all started with the cold weather a little while ago. I haven't tried silicone spray, I wasn't sure if I could use anything like that. One is worse than the other.
  13. At my wits end with this car... first Ford, will be the last I think. On accelerating, at any speed, there is a single clunk each time that I can feel in the steering and pedal. From the the youtube video, you can hear it quite clearly. There is a bit of lateral movement in the drivers side driveshaft, but the garage I've dropped the car off at are not 100% sure its a driveshaft issue, but is the first place to start. I didn't have ANY issues with the car until FORD replaced my clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder... since then it's just started falling apart. Any ideas?
  14. So, changed the brakes and pads... from this... Quite a bit of pad stuck to the inside edge of the discs. So I had a pull and a pride under the car, everything seems fine... except this (hopefully youtube links work?) There sounds like a knock and maybe a little too much lateral play at the connection at either the drive shaft to gear box or the CV joint to the hub. The hub bearing itself sound fine, no grumbling at all.
  15. Yet another issue with the car... lol The Xenon headlamp washers don't always retract all the way back into the bumper, they don't stay 100% out, maybe 50% max. If I push them or give them a wiggle, they seem to go back with little resistance. I've tried lubing / cleaning the plastic arms with washing liquid and screen wash, but doesn't seem to make a difference. Ideas? Cheers!