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Musketter last won the day on May 24 2011

Musketter had the most liked content!

About Musketter

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    Settling In Well

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    Focus Titanium Estate
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  1. Try the breather pipe, the air cant escape while you are filling if it gets blocked
  2. Not at all, feel free I have noticed there are several other cameras with the lines, they may do one that is built into the handle as on the Hatchback
  3. Its strange how the live feeds are so low in amps seeing as they have to power the Ford camera The lines only work when moving, and there seems to be a slight delay, but they are fun 🤣
  4. Hi Jon, thanks for the reply I brought the lead from Amazon, and spent the morning ripping out my dash, connected the lead and still got camera unavailable !!! I spent the next hour going all through Forscan with no success I then remembered your comment about the earth so checked that, it was fine. I thought I would check the power supply while I was at it (I used the power to the original camera) and that was at 12v. I then remembered something I learnt at college many years ago, to check the power under load. 12.32v in standby and then 7.06v under load. I can only assume my camera draws a higher current than the original ford one. I connected to live feed for the boot Aux socket and it works. I never thought to check the power supply other than it being live. I have left the lead in place as it works and don't want to jinx it. I have seen that the camera I used has the bendy lines on it when you turn while you are reversing, not quite sure how it does it but it does Ebay link to Camera Thank for your help
  5. I am trying to install a camera in my 2016 MK3.5 Focus estate TDI, Sync 2, 12 sensors, Park Assist I have read every post I can, installed my camera, used Forscan to program it, and I still get "Camera Unavailable" I have the camera settings on the screen. I have had the screen out, but cannot work out which wires are from the plug in the boot, as there are not the same colour wires (Blue/Green). I was going to try and do a circuit check to rule out a broken wire. I have connected it to the grey plug in the boot, using the video + & -, and the live. I have earthed it off the boot itself. The camera is working ok (Checked on another screen) but all I get is this on the screen. Would this cable help as it is either a software or hardware problem ? Sorry if this has been covered before, but I have read so much I am now get more confused than ever.
  6. Try the internal light above your head. When mine rattled it sounded like it was on the other side of the car depending if you were driving or a passenger. Drove us bonkers
  7. Cheers Nathan, on the ball as ever :)
  8. I am after a wiring diagram for a 59 1.4 DIesel, esp to do with the dash/cruise control wiring. I have the cruise control working but have a loose conection somewhere which means when I hit a bump it sometimes cuts the cruise control off, then sometimes I have to wait for another bump before I can switch it back on. I have tried the Haynes manual one but it doesn't show it. I have also tried another switch which did the same. Does anyone know where the two wires from the dash go to from the steering wheel connector block as I don't want to dismantle half the dash tracing wires ! Thanks in advance
  9. Oh well, what a shame (Believe me you dont want to know what I really said). Can you give me a list of you movements (in the car) for the next 60 days please !!! LOL Are you anywhere down south or the M25 in the next month ? so we can meet up ? Cheers, Keith
  10. Hi Folks, I am hoping someone will have access to the Ford IDS system in the South east so I can update my cruise control on My 59 Fiesta. I intend to get the software from iNath, but as I am in Brighton and he lives far away I am hoping someoine may be able to help me ? Thanks, Keith
  11. I was quoted £62 to £83 depending which chip was in the key (Didn't have it on me) from the local hardware store for a non remote key. He thought it would be a standard £62 one. They just clone your original key
  12. I might be wrong, but I thought the procedure to code the remote does just that. It doesn't code the imbolizer chip built into the key. What I beleive is happening is that you are putting the old key in and turning the ignition on, then inserting the new key and coding the remote. The imobilzer will stay "live" for a short while (Around 2 minutes on my old Pug!), then cut off. This is why it works at first but then packs up. Hope it helps
  13. If you look inside the bumper and the grey plastic trim at the bottom of the bumper, you will see that the correct holes positions are marked in the plastic (I believe it was a circle with a x but not certain). I used a red hot needle, held in a pair of pliers to burn a very small hole hole in the bumper from the back. I then drilled the hole from the front and they lined up perfectly. Hope it helps
  14. Cheers for that, in my forties, full no claims, clean licence (just) with PSV and HGV, living on the south coast. So no need for Saga just yet (Maybe next month) Keith
  15. I am totally shocked at some of those quotes. I moaned about having to pay £243 to renew last December. I am dreading it this year.