Musketter

Budding Enthusiast
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Everything posted by Musketter

  1. Not at all, feel free I have noticed there are several other cameras with the lines, they may do one that is built into the handle as on the Hatchback
  2. Its strange how the live feeds are so low in amps seeing as they have to power the Ford camera The lines only work when moving, and there seems to be a slight delay, but they are fun 🤣
  3. Hi Jon, thanks for the reply I brought the lead from Amazon, and spent the morning ripping out my dash, connected the lead and still got camera unavailable !!! I spent the next hour going all through Forscan with no success I then remembered your comment about the earth so checked that, it was fine. I thought I would check the power supply while I was at it (I used the power to the original camera) and that was at 12v. I then remembered something I learnt at college many years ago, to check the power under load. 12.32v in standby and then 7.06v under load. I can only assume my camera draws a higher current than the original ford one. I connected to live feed for the boot Aux socket and it works. I never thought to check the power supply other than it being live. I have left the lead in place as it works and don't want to jinx it. I have seen that the camera I used has the bendy lines on it when you turn while you are reversing, not quite sure how it does it but it does https://youtu.be/tBQXv3ywRTg Ebay link to Camera https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Intelligent-Dynamic-Trajectory-Tracks-Parking-Line-Rear-View-Camera-Reverse/362682927309?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Thank for your help
  4. I am trying to install a camera in my 2016 MK3.5 Focus estate TDI, Sync 2, 12 sensors, Park Assist I have read every post I can, installed my camera, used Forscan to program it, and I still get "Camera Unavailable" I have the camera settings on the screen. I have had the screen out, but cannot work out which wires are from the plug in the boot, as there are not the same colour wires (Blue/Green). I was going to try and do a circuit check to rule out a broken wire. I have connected it to the grey plug in the boot, using the video + & -, and the live. I have earthed it off the boot itself. The camera is working ok (Checked on another screen) but all I get is this on the screen. Would this cable help as it is either a software or hardware problem ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07G16KK4F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2XW5E1DK6PEM0&psc=1 Sorry if this has been covered before, but I have read so much I am now get more confused than ever.
  5. Try the internal light above your head. When mine rattled it sounded like it was on the other side of the car depending if you were driving or a passenger. Drove us bonkers
  6. Cheers Nathan, on the ball as ever :)
  7. I am after a wiring diagram for a 59 1.4 DIesel, esp to do with the dash/cruise control wiring. I have the cruise control working but have a loose conection somewhere which means when I hit a bump it sometimes cuts the cruise control off, then sometimes I have to wait for another bump before I can switch it back on. I have tried the Haynes manual one but it doesn't show it. I have also tried another switch which did the same. Does anyone know where the two wires from the dash go to from the steering wheel connector block as I don't want to dismantle half the dash tracing wires ! Thanks in advance
  8. Oh well, what a shame (Believe me you dont want to know what I really said). Can you give me a list of you movements (in the car) for the next 60 days please !!! LOL Are you anywhere down south or the M25 in the next month ? so we can meet up ? Cheers, Keith
  9. Hi Folks, I am hoping someone will have access to the Ford IDS system in the South east so I can update my cruise control on My 59 Fiesta. I intend to get the software from iNath, but as I am in Brighton and he lives far away I am hoping someoine may be able to help me ? Thanks, Keith
  10. I was quoted £62 to £83 depending which chip was in the key (Didn't have it on me) from the local hardware store for a non remote key. He thought it would be a standard £62 one. They just clone your original key
  11. I might be wrong, but I thought the procedure to code the remote does just that. It doesn't code the imbolizer chip built into the key. What I beleive is happening is that you are putting the old key in and turning the ignition on, then inserting the new key and coding the remote. The imobilzer will stay "live" for a short while (Around 2 minutes on my old Pug!), then cut off. This is why it works at first but then packs up. Hope it helps
  12. If you look inside the bumper and the grey plastic trim at the bottom of the bumper, you will see that the correct holes positions are marked in the plastic (I believe it was a circle with a x but not certain). I used a red hot needle, held in a pair of pliers to burn a very small hole hole in the bumper from the back. I then drilled the hole from the front and they lined up perfectly. Hope it helps
  13. Cheers for that, in my forties, full no claims, clean licence (just) with PSV and HGV, living on the south coast. So no need for Saga just yet (Maybe next month) Keith
  14. I am totally shocked at some of those quotes. I moaned about having to pay £243 to renew last December. I am dreading it this year.
  15. Musketter

    Newbie

    Great job, but the colour
  16. I did it to a old MK2 Astra, lots of smoke going down the by-pass but no damage. My mate did it to his escort and blew the engine. I would deff get it emptied before you drive it
  17. Musketter

    Got It!

    Just wondering if you would like me to run it for you while you are away ? OK, it was worth a try!!!
  18. When we went camping last year I took out the rear seats and the room seem to double
  19. Musketter

    Got It!

    Looks nice, but I would take it back as they have put the steering wheel on the wrong side ;) I have never really liked white cars, but the Fez in white looks great.
  20. I have managed to work it out. The 2 wires on the right are the earth, the one on the left is the live feed. The black wire running across is the problem, and needs replacing with one from a ignition controlled source to the small connector on the right hand side. At the moment it is using a permanent live, hence why it is staying on all the time. Please remember that the lights are controlled by the negative, and not the live feed. Have fun !!!
  21. I can't actually seen the light clearly in the pic, but it seems you have run a switched live (Ignition) to the light. I cannot work out what the black wire is going across the light for ? Firstly remove that wire. If no joy, It is possible that you have got the switched live and the permanent live the wrong way round, or that the switched live is permanently live. Try using a multimeter on the switched wire to see if it is switched (If that makes sense). If it doesn't go on and off with the ignition, then turn the light on with the switch on the light, and see if they go on and off with the ignition. If it does go out with the ignition then you need to swap the two lives wires over. Try that and let me know how you get on ?
  22. There is a trick with LEDs where you file down the top of the bulb to give a much greater spread of light. Just be careful you done remove too much. Hope it helps
  23. This drove me mad, so redid the names from Joe Bloggs to either Joe.bloggs or Joe-Bloogs. It now finds them as all one word, or under J and not B. Hope it helps
  24. As the title says, suddenly it is so quite in my car, not a moan or groan anywhere. Couldn't work out why and then I suddenly remembered, we split up on Sat night, Oh happy days :D I get peace and quiet, she gets the bus, sorted
  25. Do you mean through a relay and not a resistor ?