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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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1979Damian last won the day on January 5

1979Damian had the most liked content!

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About 1979Damian

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    Too much time on the boards
  • Birthday 12/12/1979

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    MK2 Focus 1.8 TDCi Ghia (Saloon)
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    Although I'm happy with one of their tuning boxes on my MK2 1.8 TDCi, I only paid £85 thanks to ebay. For the increase in performance it's provided I'd be happy to pay up to £200 for one of their tuning boxes. For much above £200 though, I think I'd also pay the extra for get a Bluefin or similar, frankly £450 is ridiculous IMHO for a tuning box that only connects to the fuel rail sensor (on mine at least). As a side note in relation to technical support, I sent them 3 different emails/messages and not one was replied to (just something to bear in mind when potentially spending hundreds of pounds on something that you may well have questions about).
  2. Is this normal?

    No worries mate, the only thing I'd say is when you're refitting it, the long strip/clip that fits onto the leading edge of the windscreen, clean out all the crap that you'll probably find in it and it should pop back onto the bottom edge of the windscreen nice and easy without needing to be pushed too hard.
  3. Is this normal?

    I've had the plastic scuttle panel off loads of times, it's actually fairly sturdy, I wouldn't worry too much about breaking it.
  4. Mondeo mrk 4

    It could also be that the battery doesn't have enough charge/power to drive the starter motor/crank the engine.
  5. MK2 Focus Estate same to V50?

    I just did a quick search on Euro Car Parts for a 2007 2.0 diesel Focus and a similar Volvo, the site gave the exact same matches. Clearly this isn't a definitive answer but it seems like the parts are the same, it is largely the same car in a nicer looking dress.
  6. new alloys

    If it's a diamond cut finish I suspect they'll need a professional refurb/re-cut to restore the finish (To be clear, I don't know if they ARE actually diamond cut, but they look like that type/style of finish).
  7. Running the engine for a bit with the coolant tank cap off won't do any harm, in addition what you posted you also need the heater setting on max heat to ensure the full coolant including the heater matrix is in use. Once the engine is up to temp, check if the top hose for the radiator is also warm, if not it might be that you have a sizeable air lock in the radiator. If you've tried the steps you mentioned in your post, I'd say try it and see if it fixes it. If not post back as we go from there.
  8. Mk2 Automatic won’t start even after battery change

    You could really do with being able to read/check for stored error codes, to do this you'd need a modified ELM327 cable, a Windows laptop and Forscan software. (If you google the terms you'll find plenty of info). Otherwise as you touched on you're looking at going to garage with is likely to start costing money pretty quickly. You might get a recommendation on here for a good garage in your area if you wait long enough but seeing as your car is now a non-runner you can see for a decent garage here: https://www.goodgaragescheme.com/ Don't forget to post back with how you get on (it might help someone else in the future).
  9. Mk3.5 different headlight options?

    Most on here have got one from Modified ELM327 cable but the basic USB one is currently showing as out of stock. I've had mine a few years and it's never let me down.
  10. Things to know about Automatic gearboxes

    I don't think the old school auto boxes used in the MK2 Focus had a regularly filter/fluid change requirement, unlike the newer dual clutch systems. That said, at 10+ years old it would probably be a job worth doing, as long as the right fluid and amount is used I can't see it doing any harm to the box. (Assuming that it's easy enough to do as some boxes have to be partly stripped down to get to the drain/fill ports). EDIT - Just checked Haynes manual for MK2 petrol and the auto box is of the "sealed for life" variety although from looking at the Haynes book it doesn't seem overly difficult if someone wanted to drain and refill the fluid for peace of mind.
  11. Things to know about Automatic gearboxes

    No worries mate. Don't worry about the "slush box" nickname, it's a term often used for the older type auto boxes because they use fluid to provide the drive, rather than a fixed connection like a manual box or a dual clutch setup. They technology has been around for decades so is tried and tested.
  12. Things to know about Automatic gearboxes

    The MK2 Focus auto is an old school "slush box" like the Americans have been using for decades, they seem pretty reliable unlike some of the newer dual clutch type boxes (from various manufacturers).
  13. MK2 focus (05) red hot dash

    If the various bits of venting/cowling within the centre console weren't connected back up properly when the heater matrix was replaced or the box that the heater matrix sits is was damaged/butchered when they swapped the matrix, the heat to so high that even a small hole/gap while contribute significantly to foot well temps once the engine is nice and hot. As previously mentioned, the heater matrix is connected directly into the cooling system so even with the fans/temp on cold the heater matrix itself will still be full of engine temperature coolant. It's normal for the aluminium pipes themselves to be exposed (about 6" ish) where they run up to bulk head, although they get hot they don't usually contribute much to cabin/foot well temperatures. I'd be pulling the foot well trims out and the bottom part of the centre console if necessary to check nothing has been butchered or not connected up fully.
  14. Focus designed to die engine features?

    Dunno about the 1.6 petrol but my MK2 Focus 1.8 TDCi is on 145K miles and the largest bill so far was a reconditioned alternator at £150, although I've replaced some wear and tear items I've not found anything so far that appeared to be designed to fail "early".
  15. So for the last few months my car had developed more vibration than normal when the engine was under load (4th and 5th gears in particular), an intermittent vibration at idle and also when coming on and off the power it felt like the engine was lurching back and forth (it just didn't feel "tight" anymore). Having previously replaced the top engine mount (the one with the fluid in it) and feeling fairly confident that the DMF was still okay I decided after a little research to replacement the lower gearbox mount. She's done 145K so I figured that even if it wasn't the root cause of the issues, it was likely to be well on it's way to being knackered so wouldn't be money wasted. Long story short, it took me 2 hours to remove all the bits necessary and get the new mount fitted (12 year old bolts that have been exposed to that many years of salt/bad weather etc REALLY don't want to move, as well as a sort of cast plate/support that needing to be brute forced a little to encourage it to come away). Now, the car is day and night different, no more intermittent vibration at idle, changing gear and coming on/off the power now feels nice and tight again. I've attached a picture of the old mount, the 2 rubber (legs) had separated almost entirely from the mount so it REALLY wasn't doing it's job properly anymore. Having found out the correct Ford part numbers I was able to source Lemforder parts, all in it cost me £67 for both mounts. Seeing as Ford wanted more than that just for the mount I've pictured below I was pretty happy with that deal. The correct Ford part number for the part pictured is 1751001 and whilst I'd got everything off I also replaced the mount it bolts into, that part number was 1347798. The rubber on that mount still looked to be in good condition but considering how cheap the part was and the pain in the bottom of getting all the stuff off I didn't fancying having to do it a 2nd time at some later point! (Working off ramps so had less than a foot of "head room" to work with). Hopefully someone might find my little ramble useful if they're experiencing similar behaviour with their car. Oh and the new part 1751001 looks VERY different to the one that came off the car, it fitted perfectly but is a lot more square in it's appearance which almost gave me a heart attack after fighting for 2 hours to get everything removed, lol. A replacement genuine Ford part looks the same so it seems Ford have re-engineered the part at least once. With the space constraints I wasn't able to do a photo guide to the swap, I had to focus on just getting it done ready for the commute to work!