1979Damian

True Ford Enthusiast
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1979Damian last won the day on February 12

1979Damian had the most liked content!

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About 1979Damian

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 12/12/1979

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Damian
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    MK2 Focus 1.8 TDCi Ghia (Saloon)
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics
    Sports & Leisure

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Rotherham

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Round my end (Doncaster) I don't think the council even HAS any direct labour left on the books.
  2. It seem to be happening all over, I hate the half arsed throw down a load of liquid bitumen and some gravel afterwards approach. If I had a nice (newer) motor I'd be raging about stonechips to the cills etc. I suspect the top mount along with the shock was probably quite tired, 162K miles (14 years old), at least I should be able to feel a significant improvement once it's sorted.
  3. Wow, nice to see that council contractor taking pride in their work!
  4. For a MK5 Mondeo you don't have to worry about any radio codes etc, in terms of charging the battery I'd personally be a lot more comfortable removing it from the car to charge it to be safe (peace of mind).
  5. Morning all, just thought I'd have a quick vent! A good end to last week, driving to work (50 MPH zone, single carriageway), white van man decides he wants to update his Insta account whilst doing 50 MPH, uses my side of the road, I get as far out of his way as possible and batter through a massive pothole at circa 50 MPH . Cue a very loud bang and a loud and very constant sound of metal banging against metal, quickly noticed the rear felt really (floaty) so pulled over and pulled back the carpets in the boot. End result = The rear left shock/top mount had failed/been smashed totally, if I stick my finger in I can just reach the top of the shock and give it a wiggle. Then spent the next 5 minutes grovelling to my regular garage to fit me in a soon as possible as I need my car for commuting and finally ended up booked in for this Weds (new shocks, top mounts and springs). I can't say I enjoyed the drive to work today, 1 hour of solid "noise" and having to corner like "Ethel in her metallic lilac Holda Jazz on her Sunday morning drive". Roll on Wednesday. I'm trying to see the upside i.e. the parts that are being replaced were all original i.e. 14 years old and surely getting rather tired so at least once I've paid my £255 the rear of the car should be lovely and planted. /rantover
  6. You need significantly more disagnostics carrying out before you go for replacing the engine, that is NOT a cheap option (it's the last resort).
  7. The clutches on most/all modern cars are self adjusting, it's not possible to make adjustments to alter the biting point.
  8. Not sure on the IB5, MTX75 is 1.9 litres. Whatver the IB5 takes it will be closer to 2 litres than 1.
  9. Well that's different to the usual "Performance Blue" 😁
  10. No worries mate. If there is any residue/sign of leaking near the pipe joins then it has to be the joins that are leaking. After the join the pipes are solid runs through the bulk head and into the engine bay. Also, if one of the o-rings has rotted sufficiently to not do it's job properly, the other one can't be far behind as they've been exposed to the same temperatures and chemicals so it would probably be a good idea to do both at the same time. The matrix itself can fail (VERY rarely) but you wouldn't see any residue on the pipes (near the retention clips) because the fluid would be leaking out from behind the centre console.
  11. Welcome, looking forward to the pics. What colour is yours?
  12. The AC condenser is in the engine bay so replacing it shouldn't have disturbed the heater matrix and it's pipework. The rubber o-rings can rot over time, especially if the anti-freeze mix is too strong (it happened on mine). Although replacement o-rings are cheap from Ford, fitting them is an absolute !
  13. I'd start off with the easy stuff like disconnecting the negative cable for 10 minutes to reset the ECU/modules. It's surprising how often this seems to "fix" modern cars, oh and the newer Ford head units don't have any security codes so you don't have to worry about "have I got my code" and inputting it after fiddling with the battery.
  14. Good man, at least it wasn't a massively expensive fix and fair play for posting back with a root cause as it might help someone else out someday.