dougies st

since your out of warenty you have no chance really. If you know a young electrician who is interested in cars im sure he could fix it for you folling the guide. I have fixed a good few up by my way. I do it in their drive or out on the street. Your clutch, I guess its a wear and tear part so wont be coverd under warenty ? unless it went really quick once you got the car? but the way I see it... a good quality built car should not need a new clutch before 3 years :P

I wouldn't trust their "expert" diagnosis as far as I could chuck them. I had my car 6 months took it to a " good " ford dealer, They took it in in the morning, I phoned up at 3pm to see how it was getting on, The girl said I will go check etc. So she comes back and says MR Millar the dash has been taken out of the car and we are testing your window so I don't think you will get the car back today. 35mins later I get a call Mr Millar your car is ready to pick up ! 2 weeks after that I get a call from the ford team. Mr Millar unfortunately we wont be repairing your car under warranty as you had the window replaced and its not a genuine ford part. So hands up to them they got me on that one ( it was replaced by the previous owner ) I asked the guy how they would check the window etc and he said all they do is check the window is a ford part. If it is then they replace the window most of the time they get auto glass in so make sure it has the ford logo on it ! fortunately I'm an electrician so I know how to fix these kinds of things. If you get someone who is handy with a solder iron then the fix is very easy. If you follow that step by step it really isnt hard, you dont need to do anything more

hey dude, I did go a bit over the top with my explanation on how to fix it. but that really is a step by step on how to fix it. I could have just said remove the plastic trims, access the copper foil and rubber block solder on a new bit of longer cable and put it all back together. I came across a few problems that I managed to overcome, thats why I done it in so much detail. It really is an easy fix. you can pick up a solder iron from b&q for less than £10, a bit cable, a knife and some tape. Thanks for reading my guide dude

just to inform the foil strip is a thin copper strip with a covering applied ( gives the foil look ) this has to be scraped off to apply a solder so the cable gets a secure connection

If you use this clip then the cable seems to get crushed by the plastic trim and bonnet. Not enough to damage the cable but enough for it to discolour and stretch the insulation. This clip is meant for thinner cables that you see on the driver side. This would be used on left hand models I presume

I have the solution for how to repair this fault. Its very easy and only takes around 30 - 40 mins. I posted it on the passionford forum but didnt get much of a reply ! I have just repaired mine and these are the steps I took to do the job. Tools needed. Stanley knife, pipe grips, thin headed screwdriver, solder iron and solder, 2.5mm stranded cable, heat shrink, a small crocodile clip or a friend. ok so here is a few simple instructions on how to repair your faulty heated front windscreen. 1. Open bonnet 2. Remove rubber covers on window wipers. Expose nuts 3. Using a set of grips or spanner undo bolts 4. THE WINDOW WIPERS. To remove the wipers, push down on the join and pull the wiper arm towards the engine bay and lift up. x2 5. You will see around about 8 clips holding on the plastic trim that the wiper supports come through. Remove these clips 6. Remove plastic trim, this just peels off. 7. Now you have exposed the window wiper bars and heating elements. Take a look on the driver side and you will see a cable hanging loose and a black tab hanging from under your window. 8. Disconnect cable and cut open the opposite end to expose the cable inside. You will see small square of treated copper. 9 scrape off the silver to expose copper. 10. Get some 2.5mm stranded cable around 10 inches is enough. strip 10mm of insulation away and using a solder iron tin the end fully. Heat shrink can be added to this cable. 11. Tin with solder the exposed copper on the small square of copper. 12. If you can clamp these 2 cables together while you solder then do so as it can be tricky. If not get someone to help you. 13. Heat both parts together and add extra solder to join both parts. Leave to cool/set then slide black rubber over the joint and tape closed. 14. Using the same method as you have just carried out, peel back some of the black covering to expose the silver looking copper. scrape away carefully a section to expose the copper and tin with solder. 15. Strip around about 15mm off insulation from the other end of the cable and tin with solder. 16. Clamp these to sections together or get a friend to hold. 17. Apply heat from the solder iron and add extra solder to get a good connection. Leave to cool and set and then tape exposed joint. 18. Plugging the cable back in and test window to make sure it now works. This can be tested by boiling a kettle and letting it sit in your car. 19. Once you have confirmed the window heater works unplug and reroute the cable so it is kept as far away from the wiper bars as possible. Reconnect the plug. 20. It is now time to put the plastic trim back on. TIP make sure the trim is fixed into the runner bar first before putting clips back on. 21. With the trim all secure and clips in place, rescuer the wiper blades. The same rule applies when putting back on as you did taking off. but push the wiper up the window. 22. Job Complete.