• Announcements

    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About git

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  1. I wrote to them, they have replied & returned £75 of the money i paid, they have also offered me a free MOT anytime within the next year, I took my abs module to them along with the nearside sensor & they confirmed what i had told them so they did at least stay honest even though they were unable to fault find initially, lessons learnt all round i guess.
  2. 1.8 Tdci Smoke On Cold Start

    the thing i would suggest is a leak off test of the injectors, if that is ok , is the battery in good condition,? the injectors need a certain voltage to function from cold so with the starter motor engaged is the voltage enough to operate all injectors? this might be more noticable on cold start if the battery is on its way out!
  3. 1.8 Tdci Smoke On Cold Start

    err, I may be wrong but apparenty the glow plugs are not programed to work unless the temperature is below about 4c on most focus, this is how its programed in the ECU i'm led to believe..
  4. Hello Everyone ...help!!!

    It sounds like injectors to me, do a leak off test , if you don't have a kit, make one using small mouthwash bottles & buy a reel of leak off hose from somewhere like Wilco & cut enough to make 4 bottles with hoses in the tops , during engine cranking you should not get any flow in the bottles with the engine running for 2 mins, no more than 20ml in each bottle, refur to ford for correct figure but somewhere near should be ok, if you see some way out then you will probably need to replace the faulty injectors,
  5. Foucs Abs

    if you have abs then the pump & module as you look under the bonnet to your right rear under the fuse box, its a bit hard to spot but as has been stated you will see about 6 brake pipes on the top & a black pump on the side of it.
  6. Engine Management Light

    have you checked all your fuses? sounds like something might have blown.
  7. thanks for your replies and hope the post helps , jeebowhite, i,ve just reread your post , seems you are meaning to challenge ford about the service, yes i phoned them & got the answer phone treatment 3 times, i guess a letter or email or visit will be my next move.
  8. I wanted to share this with fellow diy'ers as I found limited info to help fix my ford focus 2004 1.8 tdci ABS system, While changing the clutch on my focus I was unable to part the n/side abs sensor plug under the wheel-arch so I ended up giving it a pull & ripped the plug apart, because of the damage to the plug I also thought I’d better get a new abs wheel sensor for the nearside as this would solve the ripped plug issue, after telephoning around I got a new one from GFS auto parts for £43, after re-building the car & fitting the new sensor I started the car & the clutch worked fine but the abs light wouldn’t go out , I have bought a fault code reader & the fault it showed was n/side front circuit failure which would not clear even though I had just fitted the new abs sensor, At the time I was not aware that the front sensors are interchangeable & had no issues before I started the work on the system so I thought I must have damaged the wiring loom plug end, I got a new set of wires & plug from the scrap yard from a another focus diesel & graphed them into the wiring loom, after checking again with my code reader still the abs lights stayed on, at this point I needed to get the car MOT’ed so thought it better to let my local FORD stealer put it on their diagnostic tool & help clear the fault & MOT the car, FORD told me that they couldn’t clear the fault from the ABS module & that they were getting little info back from the nearside sensor, I explained that it was a new sensor bought from GFS , FORD at this point asked me if I had fitted a new wheel bearing, I told them no , it was the original wheel bearing, FORD also mentioned that they had checked the wiring out that I had graphed into the plug & that it seemed to be ok, then they told me I must have shorted the wiring out when I ripped the plug apart & that the abs module was damaged & they wanted £1500 to fit a new one, as you imagine the car isn’t worth that now & I was pretty !Removed! that I had damaged this & had to take their word for it, Something didn’t seem correct & I had no way of challenging this! FORD has all the information & tools for the system after all! So I took my car home after parting with £150 for fault finding I removed the abs module, I found a company online called ECU testing & called them to arrange sending my abs module to them to check to find what was damaged & replace the parts & then send it back to me as they had what seemed a good turn around service of a few days & they could do this for about £200, they phoned me to explain that they had checked my abs unit & the fault was not in the abs module & that they had no problems clearing the codes from the unit, they sent the unit back to me for £75 & before it arrived I got on the phone to FORD explaining that I was not happy with what they had said & that they need to train their staff better to use the equipment that they use, I refitted the abs module to my car & turned the key & got the same problem code up again, at this point now I was starting to get doubts about who was correct so I looked on eBay & found another abs module for £40, when it came I fitted it to the car & turned the key & got exactly the same fault code, at this point I found out from looking on eBay for a new front abs sensor that they were interchangeable & I could have got one for about £15, I took the new nearside sensor off the car & put my meter on it, got 22.5m ohms & then got the driver’s side off & got 17.5 m ohm’s , this was where I noticed something different between the two front sensors, the new sensor when I tested it by reversing the polarity on my meter gave me an intermittent reading on the ohm’s scale, on the original sensor when I reversed the polarity to get a reading I got nothing, I realised at this point that there must be a diode in the original sensor & that the sensor I bought from GFS must be an incorrect sensor for my car, At this point I decided to go to FORD & buy a new sensor for £97, put it on the car & hey presto the abs light went out & the fault code cleared with my code reader, Only by finding out on the internet that the sensors are interchangeable enabled me to realise both front sensors should have been 17.5 m ohm’s because that was the reading I got from the new sensor I bought from FORD, How the hell did BUSSEY’s not spot this? These guys are meant to be the experts? As for GFS, well I believe they gave me what they thought was correct but it caused me a !Removed! nightmare all because FORD withhold information about the system, Also ECU testing proved to be correct as the fault was not with the old unit so full credit to them, Not impressed with BUSSEY’s think they need better training as they would have quite happily charged me £1500 for work that never needed doing! moan over & as I stated i've only posted this so it might help others struggling with the abs system.
  9. the good news is it sounds like the central locking is still working but something has broken off of it inside the door, probably a plastic link , a Haynes manual will explain to you how to get it apart to find the piece that is probably broken in the door then get a replacement part from a scrapyard would be my advice Michael
  10. Ka Boot Release

    ok thx Roger, it sounds like boot release is working back to front then as the circuit only has power when the central locking is locked , i have looked at the wiring in the Haynes manual & the power gets to the boot release switch from the central locking door switching so i must have had something in the wrong place when i re-connected the door wiring looms,still not sure whats wrong here!
  11. I have replaced the door wiring looms on both doors of my daughters x reg KA as the central locking wasn't working & also the boot release wasn't working so i thought, the pins on the old looms at the door pillars were goosed & when i replaced them & then replaced the 20a blown fuse both door acuators sprung to life, so i tried the central locking & it worked fine inside with pushing door opener in then outside the car with the key in the door lock,so far so good i thought, then i tried the boot release switch & it still didn't work, i checked all the other fuses & they are all ok, i locked the car using the central locking with the drivers window down & then pushed the boot release switch & then the boot release worked, my question, is this how the boot release works on a KA as i have never had this type of car & it seems to be working back to front to me, i would have thought that the boot release should work when the car is unlocked & engine not running & when the central locking is on then its would not allow the boot release to work, but as it only works when the central locking is on & engine not running is this correct?