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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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About docjohn

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  1. Front Side Lamp Won't Fit!

    All sorted. It was the right bulb. However the previous bulb, when it failed/broke, must have deposited a layer of glass or something around the inside of the alloy tube of the headlamp unit. I cleared it with a 10.5mm drillbit, rotated by hand and the bulb then fitted. I wrapped some insulation tape round the bulb holder and alloy tube to keep it in place in the unit.
  2. Front Side Lamp Won't Fit!

    This morning I had a look in the daylight with the headlamp bulb connector disconnected. What I thought was an alloy tube is actually black and possible IS a rubber sleeve, perhaps pushed all the way in over a protruding alloy tube so the potential sidelamp bulb is meeting the end of the alloy tube inside it. So how do I pull the sleeve back so it can hold the sidelamp bulb or holder? There's very little purchase on it. Perhaps an angled gripper like a pipe grip could do it? Unless of course I have the wrong bulb......
  3. I know this sounds a silly question, but how is the front side lamp fitted on a 2000 Ford Escort? I need to replace the nearside side lamp before my MOT next week as I've suddenly discovered the old one was broken. Visibility is very limited but I can see an alloy tube behind the headamp cluster where it goes and there's the plastic sidelamp holder (black) hanging loosely on its cable. The lamp holder is about the same diameter as the alloy tube so it doesn't slide inside. So it must be the bulb itself which slides into the tube. But the bulb I've bought from Halfords ("exterior/interior bulb, 12V 5W, code 501" is written on the blue packet) is slightly too large to slide into the alloy tube. If I pushed it more, it'll just fracture. Anyway I would've thought that relying on an interference fit between glass and metal is inadequate design! Have I got the wrong bulb? Or is there a rubber tube, say, which acts as a sleeve for lamp and alloy tube (sliding over both) that's missing? If so, I can pop intio a dealer before I go to the MOT and get one. Or bodge one up with insulation tape the night before just for the test. I just haven't got the time in the next week (I'm working!) to take the headlamp unit out to see what's what. I've looked on the other side (offside) but visibility there is even more limited! I don't want to remove that bulb in case I can't get it back--I don't want to compound the problem. Can anybody explain what's happened? Otherwise I'll just have to do the pathetic thing and ask the MOT tester to put the bulb in for me--if something IS missing, he won't have it and that'll be a fail..........
  4. Replacing Fog Light Lens

    I spoke too soon!!!! I've just removed the broken foglight and I see the picture on the Ebay advert is upside down. So I'll get it. Thanks for your help guys.
  5. Replacing Fog Light Lens

    Thanks, I haven't had time yet to look underneath to check accessibility but that ebay picture looks lke a N/S lamp, ie tapered to the outside (=nearside), even though it says Drivers' side (which my broken lamp is). Is the picture correct, or just a "typical" picture?
  6. Replacing Fog Light Lens

    I've just noticed the fog light lens on my Escort Finesse Estate (2000) is smashed, probably by a stone. The Haynes manual gives no indication of how to remove the light unit to replace the lens--I assume the lens IS sold separately. It just tells me how to replace the bulb! Could somebody tell me how to remove the unit please? And, by the way, are the fog light lenses sold separately?
  7. Every year I have to replace my nearside front sidelight on my Escort Finesse (year 2000) before the car's MOT, yet the offside sidelight is the same one that the car came with, as indeed are all the other bulbs. In fact, it's been more than once a year because one year, I spotted the failed bulb and changed it too soon--it failed again before the MOT date! Is that side of the car particularly prone to vibration or heat, which could cause mechanical failure? What else could be causing this problem? I've thought about it being an intermittent electrical connection (the repeated shock of "off&on" causing large inrush currents) but we're only talking about a small bulb here. The inrush surely can't be that big, not like start-up currents in motors! Many thanks for your thoughts.
  8. Escort Clutch Pedal Problem

    I thought I'd update you on this. It turned out to be the pedal box that had warped. But I've got a new one in now, with new bushes. It took a few hours to do (and yes, the seat had to come out!) but I'm happy again, even if a little poorer!!
  9. Escort Clutch Pedal Problem

    Thanks, F.C.! Well, I had another look in the sunshine today before I went out and bought myself the clutch cable and I can see what the exact problem is! The grating sound is the sound of the pedal strut rubbing against the frame as it gets pushed near to the floor. It's rubbing on the side facing the other two pedals. Looking at the diagram in the Haynes Manual (Chap 6.2) it looks as if the pedal is rocking on the pedal shaft (though that isn't shown in the diagram). If I press the pedal down by hand and hold it slightly towards the centreline of the car, there's no rubbing. How different is my manually adjusted pedal from the automatically adjusted one shown in teh Haynes manual? How do I access the part that is worn?
  10. I've noticed lately on my Escort Finesse (year 2000) that when I depress the clutch to change gear, there's a slight grating sound or feel at the end of the clutch travel. Wondering if this were anything to do with clutch free play, I looked in the Haynes manual at the check for this. It says to measure the distance of the pedal from the floor in the at-rest and fully down positions. But does it mean "vertical distance" or "distance from the same point"? Because the clutch pedal moves in towards the bulkhead, the vertical distance of "the third groove of the pedal rubber" extends to an upwards-sloping part of the bulkhead and will be much smaller as a result. However if taken as measured from the point vertically below the at-rest position, ie a slanting distance, the distance will be closer to the at-rest distance. The specification say 150mm and with a same-point comparison, I get a measurement of about that figure but I haven't done it precisely yet. Is it the third groove counted from the outermost edge (towards the rear of car) of the pedal rubber or the innermost edge (towards the front of the car)? How much sideways freeplay should the pedal have? I can waggle it sideways by about a centimetre at the pedal rubber. If this is larger than normal, this could be the reason for the grating sound at full pedal depression, namely that the pedal or pedal rod is a bit worn after twelve years. Or could that grating sound indicate a worn clutch cable?
  11. Ha, you're absolutely right, Dan! I've just been down and checked with the circuit tester; the pin the yellow/black lead (12 volts) feeds into the cap connector is shorted to the pin for the black earth wire. How could I have missed that? So, does the sensor unscrew out of the cap or must I get a whole new reservoir cap assembly? (There's no description in Haynes and I don't want to force anything, seeing as the plastic reservoir is so delicately attached to the master cylinder!)
  12. Last week my handbrake warning lamp started flashing whilst I was driving and now it is permanently on whether the handbrake is on or off. The brake fluid level is fine. My car is a year 2000, Escort Estate. The problem must be electrical and I've utilised the wiring diagram in the Haynes Manual. If I remove the three pin connector to the brake fluid reservoir cap, there's naturally no lamp illumination because the wire from the warning lamp is isolated. On the wiring diagram it is shown as coming from a grey rectangle marked central fusebox via a black/yellow lead. There is twelve volts at the connector. If I replace the cap connector and remove the connector at the handbrake switch, the lamp is permanently illuminated whether the handbrake is on or off. I guess then that the circuit is accidentally earthed somewhere between the brake fluid cap and the handbrake switch. (Unless both switches are faulty, which would be much too coincidental.) On the wiring diagram, wires from the brake fluid cap and handbrake switch (both violet/orange) meet at connectors on the grey rectangle. If I could separate one or other, I can test for which wire is faulty. But where exactly IS this connection? All I can see is a vast combination cable going into the bulkhead from the battery area of the engine bay! (If it's going to be a mammoth job removing the fusebox and associated paraphrenlia, I'll just disconnect the fluid cap connector and forget about the problem.)
  13. Escort Radiator Capacity

    I am doing a 60,000 mile service on my 2000 Escort Finesse (1.6 Zetec engine with orange coolant). I drained the radiator and flushed it through with a hosepipe. I filled the system with tap water and to my surprise couldn't get all the 7 litres that my Haynes manual (and the Ford handbook) says is the radiator capacity. I was about 200 ml short and the water level was about an inch above the MAX mark on the side of the expansion tank. (In other words, the water level was at about the bottom of the filler neck.) I ran the car round the block to get the temperature gauge to the normal middle-of-the-gauge position, let the engine cool down, noted that there was no noticeable diminution of the water level, drained it off and refilled with antifreeze/water mixture to the MAX level. This is about 6 litres, not seven. Do you think I've got a smaller radiator installed on my car, bearing in mind that it was the last year of production? Or have I got a smaller expansion tank? (It LOOKS like the one in the Haynes manual photo.) If the manuals are correct and the capacity really IS seven litres, should I put the extra mixture in, or leave it at the MAX indicated level? I've had no cooling problems on the car so I don't think I have any blocked radiator passages. And yes, the car was standing on level ground. Thanks for any comments.
  14. Removing Front Alloy Wheel

    Thanks guys, I followed what both of you said. With the car on axle stands I used wellie (literally) and the wheel came off. I checked the other wheels and they were equally seized, so I released them in the same way. Then I re-installed all the wheels with Copperslip equivalent on the mating hub/wheel surfaces. I'm a happy bunny now!
  15. Escort Finesse (estate) year 2000:- I want to do a 60K service and therefore oil change. However when I came to take the offside front alloy wheel off, having removed the nuts, the wheel wouldn't budge. With the car on an axle stand, I've rocked the wheel back and forth at different angular positions. I've removed the centre cap and run some WD40 into the line where the alloy meets the steel hub and rocked the wheel again. Still no joy. There's only one of me so I can't call on somebody to pull the wheel whilst I tap the hub with a hammer on a block of wood. (Thank God I wasn't changing the wheel because of a puncture!!!) Any suggestions anybody?